MELLO*SOS
08-08-2005, 10:09 AM
** EDIT: READ BELOW FOR NOTES AND LINKS IF YOU WANT TO DO THIS UPGRADE! **
Edit: 11-26-2007 No problems to date... Dunno if I wrote about it here though, but check out the alternator pulley and make sure it doesn't rub on your radiator hose. I had that problem like a year ago maybe... It ended up slicing thru the hose and running me out of coolant :( woops... I just keep it ziptied away from the pulley now... Other than that, no problems at all from this upgrade, just do it!! If you have some questions, just bump this thread instead of PMing me!
Edit: 1-12-2007 Well I have been running the Quest 110a altynator for over a year with NO PROBLEMS. It seems to have kept the battery charged up adequately, I've never had an electrical issue that I can pin the blame on this alt swap. However, because I have it underdriven (crank pulley), the output is almost identical to that of a stock alternator. Furthermore, I suspect at idle that it may even have slightly less output (My DMM can't measure current this high). The reason I say this is that at idle, if you put your foot on the brake, the slight current draw to light up the brake lights is enough to dip the RPM by 50 or so! Also, if you turn on one of the blinkers, the current draw carries through to the idle 700->680->700->680.. This may just be caused by my stockish battery going out, but I think for you to get the most out of this swap you shouldn't underdrive the alternator. 110a underdriven 20% gives you 88a, while the stocker is ~80a. If you're reading this thread in search for more current -- read on and try it out! You'll be happy with the results.
Now on to my original thread:
I found a thread that mentions this swap and said it was possible with minor modifications. It goes on to say that there is/was a thread on FA about it. I searched here there and everywhere and couldn't find much info about this let alone pictures. If anyone has a link or more info they can post it would be appreciated. The alternators LOOK similar but without measuring them or having them side-by-side it's hard to tell.
FYI The Nissan Quest alternators are rated at 110A, compared to our measly 80A (90A for those with OEM foglights) units. For those running upgraded stereos and/or underdrive pulleys, installing one of these alternators may help with power issues.
Thanks for your constructive/informative replies that don't flame those who chose to upgrade their stereos and/or underdrive their accessories. :2f2f:
Edit: 11-26-2007 No problems to date... Dunno if I wrote about it here though, but check out the alternator pulley and make sure it doesn't rub on your radiator hose. I had that problem like a year ago maybe... It ended up slicing thru the hose and running me out of coolant :( woops... I just keep it ziptied away from the pulley now... Other than that, no problems at all from this upgrade, just do it!! If you have some questions, just bump this thread instead of PMing me!
Edit: 1-12-2007 Well I have been running the Quest 110a altynator for over a year with NO PROBLEMS. It seems to have kept the battery charged up adequately, I've never had an electrical issue that I can pin the blame on this alt swap. However, because I have it underdriven (crank pulley), the output is almost identical to that of a stock alternator. Furthermore, I suspect at idle that it may even have slightly less output (My DMM can't measure current this high). The reason I say this is that at idle, if you put your foot on the brake, the slight current draw to light up the brake lights is enough to dip the RPM by 50 or so! Also, if you turn on one of the blinkers, the current draw carries through to the idle 700->680->700->680.. This may just be caused by my stockish battery going out, but I think for you to get the most out of this swap you shouldn't underdrive the alternator. 110a underdriven 20% gives you 88a, while the stocker is ~80a. If you're reading this thread in search for more current -- read on and try it out! You'll be happy with the results.
Now on to my original thread:
I found a thread that mentions this swap and said it was possible with minor modifications. It goes on to say that there is/was a thread on FA about it. I searched here there and everywhere and couldn't find much info about this let alone pictures. If anyone has a link or more info they can post it would be appreciated. The alternators LOOK similar but without measuring them or having them side-by-side it's hard to tell.
FYI The Nissan Quest alternators are rated at 110A, compared to our measly 80A (90A for those with OEM foglights) units. For those running upgraded stereos and/or underdrive pulleys, installing one of these alternators may help with power issues.
Thanks for your constructive/informative replies that don't flame those who chose to upgrade their stereos and/or underdrive their accessories. :2f2f: