Canyon carving smog legal style KA in CA

[steve shadows]

well I should have.

Had fun yesterday carving up the "moutain" with my friend's john, ben, mike, lorie, brian, and my girl.

Me and ben did a togue run KA24 vs. KA24. haha


that little tiny 510 is real light like 1700 lbs or so. My fat blue car is about 2600.

HE was wailin up the hill right behind me.

then I chased him.

We kept getting stuck behind traffic.,

Since the lightening of the back, complete re-tune, tune up, oil change and fixing the radiator I have realized some things about the 240sx as a canyon carver.

1. You do not need that much hp even up hill in a properly setup smog legal ka24e (don't know abou the dual cam) engine. You really do not.

-once checking and making sure compression and leak down is perfect all normal tune up items have been replaced re-set the base timing on the CAS/Distributor on the side of the motor.

-then remove the stock resonator box for an instant cold air intake.

-then swap in a k & n filter.

-pop on some 40 dollar strut tower braces from meagen racing.

-some good sized tires will do. I prefer 225 all the way around. on 15s or 16s.

-run lighter oil such as 10-40 on hard runs. Do not use synthetic unless the motor has been rebuilt and the bearing re-seated and broken in on synthetic for its whole life.

All of these will help greatly in working up the canyon and down hill is then simply up to skill and braking.

2. Downhill, shocks/springs, tire pressure and the infitie question of brakes.

I have already upgraded the brakes next I am going to install new shocks and lsd.

-a good set of shocks and springs such as tien s-tech or eibach sportlines are what i prefer, cheap easy and not too stiff for daily driving.

-shock I would go with the kyb-2s or the kyb agx adjustables would be perfect to combo.

-vlsd is all you really need for a auto-x canyon once a month or weekend warrior s13 in my humble 3 year opinion.

-tire pressure I typically do 5 psi lower in the fronts about 30 in front and 35 in the back or 25 front 30 in back depending on the tire (which is mostly deciding factor). The biggest problem I have encountered in steep grade down hill is understeer with improperly setup cars.

-on brakes I simply installed steel braided lines, kept the stock calipers, bleed the brakes often with dot 3. I used brembo rotors all the way around with Porterfield carbon/kevlar composite brake pads. THEY WORK REALLY WELL.

The car stops as fast as my drag/fwy(400whp+)car that has the z32 brake conversion with brembo rotors. no bs. They last forever, smell good when they are burning up and let off almost not dust or gas!

Exaust question...staying EPA/REF/CHP/SMOG legal and having fun on the weekend or in a turn.

-I would say to stay under the radar keep it quiet, noise typically does not mean power on a stock NA engine.

3. A 2.25 inch pipe from the exaust manifold to a high flow catalytic converter then back to rear of the car with an inconspicuous dynomax flowmaster type muffler would be my preferred way to get a little rumble out of the big 2.4liter sohc and avoid becoming a ref magnet.

4. Do not forget to replace engine mounts and worn subframe bushings as well.

I have done 1 and 2 pretty much, still need to get some tires and shocks and 3 and 4 are on the way.

I will keep the 240 community updated. :goyou:

Unless you only want to hear about bondoing body kits on zilvia! :barf:

:keke:

[aznpoopy]

-on brakes I simply installed steel braided lines, kept the stock calipers, bleed the brakes often with dot 3. I used brembo rotors all the way around with Porterfield carbon/kevlar composite brake pads. THEY WORK REALLY WELL.

The car stops as fast as my drag/fwy(400whp+)car that has the z32 brake conversion with brembo rotors. no bs. They last forever, smell good when they are burning up and let off almost not dust or gas!


interesting info

this in particular caught my attention

i think this is what some of the older members have been saying for a long time.

[wootwoot]

The synthetic comment is incorrect. You do not want to use synthetic oil breaking an engine in as it will not allow the the rings to properly seat in most cases. Switching to synthetic at anytime during an engines life causes no harm as well.

[S14DB]

The synthetic comment is incorrect. You do not want to use synthetic oil breaking an engine in as it will not allow the the rings to properly seat in most cases. Switching to synthetic at anytime during an engines life causes no harm as well.
I guess all those cars that come from the factory with Mobil 1 will not break in properly... :rolleyes:

[Nan Desu Ka?!]

The synthetic comment is incorrect. You do not want to use synthetic oil breaking an engine in as it will not allow the the rings to properly seat in most cases. Switching to synthetic at anytime during an engines life causes no harm as well.

as stated above, it will break in perfectly fine. also, in regards to the part i bolded, yes it can cause harm. you see organic oil creates carbon deposits in your engine, mainly on the seals in your engine. if, all the sudden after 10+ years of carbon buildup, you start to use a synthetic oil with detergents (that will "clean" out the carbon deposites) the seals in your engine will begin to leak. its like putting clay(carbon build-up) on a sponge and trying to run water through it, none will get through, but as soon as you clean the sponge off and try to run water through it... it will obviously leak. same concept.

[wootwoot]

I guess all those cars that come from the factory with Mobil 1 will not break in properly... :rolleyes:


I thought of that before but just diddnt comment. But this is just a main reason I have heard engine builders not recommend it for the first time.

[projectRDM]

I guess all those cars that come from the factory with Mobil 1 will not break in properly... :rolleyes:

But to assume a new car has zero miles on the engine is stupid. They've seen a few hundred miles of abuse before ever going into a chassis, and they're broken in well enough to warrant switching the oil over afterwards.

[kandyflip445]

as stated above, it will break in perfectly fine. also, in regards to the part i bolded, yes it can cause harm. you see organic oil creates carbon deposits in your engine, mainly on the seals in your engine. if, all the sudden after 10+ years of carbon buildup, you start to use a synthetic oil with detergents (that will "clean" out the carbon deposites) the seals in your engine will begin to leak. its like putting clay(carbon build-up) on a sponge and trying to run water through it, none will get through, but as soon as you clean the sponge off and try to run water through it... it will obviously leak. same concept.

So what's the problem of finding leaks that should be fixed anyways. I've run synthetic in my car and it helped a lot. It runs smoother with syn and I found the VERY SLOW oil leak. The front main seal. I also replaced my PCV which may have been the biggest contributing factor of the seal going bad.

[S14DB]

But to assume a new car has zero miles on the engine is stupid. They've seen a few hundred miles of abuse before ever going into a chassis, and they're broken in well enough to warrant switching the oil over afterwards.
To assume that the engine uses something else for break in is so also. The engines only sees Mobil1 from birth. Also, Mobil says that it is ok to break in engines with Mobil1.

[TurDz]

what type of porterfields are you running? R4? R4S?

[007jpang]

where could i get some porterfields brake pads for the 240

[aznpoopy]

So what's the problem of finding leaks that should be fixed anyways. I've run synthetic in my car and it helped a lot. It runs smoother with syn and I found the VERY SLOW oil leak. The front main seal. I also replaced my PCV which may have been the biggest contributing factor of the seal going bad.

some people develop huge leaks in hard to reach places

i.e. rear main seal :eek3d:

still, using regular oil simply because you don't want your leaky seals to start leaking is kind of a covering up a problem instead of dealing with it.

[TurDz]

where could i get some porterfields brake pads for the 240

http://www.porterfield-brakes.com

mention internet discount, receive 20% off.

[Jeff240sx]

To assume that the engine uses something else for break in is so also. The engines only sees Mobil1 from birth. Also, Mobil says that it is ok to break in engines with Mobil1.

This needs further detail. I spoke with my engine builder at length about this, but that was 3 years ago.
Some of the first cars to come with Mobil 1 factory filled failed to break in properly. The ZR-1 corvette is a prime example. Currently, cars that are factory filled with synthetic have components designed for that. Softer, lighter, and different alloys. However, breaking in even a rebuilt KA, or any non-factory-synthetic engine with synthetic does not allow the hard components to wear in fully.
So you both are right. In an engine designed for it currently, you can break in an engine with synthetic. In older engines, or rebuilt engines that were dino-oil stock, you cannot break in with synthetic.
But theory and anecdotes aside, just break in a KA with dino oil..
-Jeff

[007jpang]

This needs further detail. I spoke with my engine builder at length about this, but that was 3 years ago.
Some of the first cars to come with Mobil 1 factory filled failed to break in properly. The ZR-1 corvette is a prime example. Currently, cars that are factory filled with synthetic have components designed for that. Softer, lighter, and different alloys. However, breaking in even a rebuilt KA, or any non-factory-synthetic engine with synthetic does not allow the hard components to wear in fully.
So you both are right. In an engine designed for it currently, you can break in an engine with synthetic. In older engines, or rebuilt engines that were dino-oil stock, you cannot break in with synthetic.
But theory and anecdotes aside, just break in a KA with dino oil..
-Jeff

good point...

but another good reason why to use dino oil is because it's cheaper...

before i used mobil 1 every oil change (3k) it cost me about about $24

now i use castro GTX and it cost me less than $10 per oil change... and since it cost cheaper i decide to change my oil every 2K.

in short using dino oil is best both world oil b/c its cheaper and my engine oil is changed more often... = more high reving go speed racer driving.

[Nan Desu Ka?!]

i put a fully rebuilt 95 s14 block in my s13 after my original KA blew and my mechanic recommended i go sythetic form the start. He only deals in Nissans, and has been for over 25 years. I have noticed a definate improvment in performance, and have zero leaks. everything has seated fine. I have put just over 3500 miles on the new block and everything is ship shape. i was incredibly suprised at the finished product when i went on the Bimmer canyon run this past saturday, it was strong and no smell of burning oil ;)

so from my own experience, i would say there is nothing at all wrong with breaking in a new/rebuilt engine wiht sythetic oil. just my $0.02

[Pacman]

After a late night mountain run the other night with a friend, I wore the rest of my brakes. I was looking to get the brembe blanks and Hawk HP Pads but don't know about what lines and fluid to used? Any suggestions. What did you use as far as lines and fluid?

[i8yourfwd]

He used steel braided lines with DOT3 fluid

[SochBAT]

i've heard nothin but good reviews on Redline fluids.

When i break out of poverty, i'll try some.

[SimpleSexy180]

wheres a good place to get braided brake lines?

[ZK]

Well, that's a fine brake set up for mountain driving but just pads and lines doing hot laps at the track you will easily fade them and have to bleed the brakes at the end of the day.

As for power, most stuff is adequate for mountain roads as you would never really have enough straight to need all the power. I can see too much hp as being a hinderance.

But for the most part keep the speed down. Too many people getting killed and pulled over by police on mountain roads these days. If you're pushing more than 70% of the car's abilities you are already going too far and can't recover in case anything happens.

You want to really drive? Take it to the track. Go 100% with other cars that are ready to run and no need to worry.

[Flybert]

wheres a good place to get braided brake lines?

www.splparts.com for all your brake lines and brake pad needs.

[jsigone]

I had porterfields on my 1G DSM (FWD) with stock single piston brakes and they did wonders. I was pushing about 380 whp and they did their job very well. I got a lil over 50k miles (2+ yrs) from those pads. I'll be putting a set on my 240 once they need to be swapped out. IMO Hawk pads are poooo and the EBC Greens are a step above poooo. Once you have porterfields on the car you can't go back to lesser quailty. Most of the DSMers I know run portefield/Brembo blanks combo, they have been proven on the road tracks to outperform Portefield/Powerslots combo. I'm sure the same will apply for nissans.

[Nan Desu Ka?!]

/\/\/\ +1 points for an intelligent first post! welcome to zilvia... sounds like you have been here a while, but never posted.