SCCA Spec Cage: S13

[cfrost]

WOOP! found what I needed :)

here's a couple links to those of you who are interested :)

http://www.scca.com/_Filelibrary/File/2005GeneralCompetitionRules.pdf

http://www.formulad.com/forms/2005%20Formula%20Drift%20Rulebook%20v2.pdf

[Flybert]

I used to like the old rules where you could run a 1.25" diameter chromoly cage. Now there is no weight advantage of using the good stuff.

[hellion240sx]

can't open it, whhat does it say? cuz i mlooking into getting the cusco 4 point roll bar.
thanks

[sideview_180sx]

can't open it, whhat does it say? cuz i mlooking into getting the cusco 4 point roll bar.
thanks

If you ever plan on running in a SCCA or NASA sanctioned event where a cage is required Cusco doesn't pass, nor will it pass until they make it to correspond with USA rules. Cusco is a waste of money.

If you want to see what an SCCA or NASA legal cage looks like hit up honda-tech or bimmerworld for guys who actually compete in those sanctioning bodies.

[alemanyS13]

AutoPower cages is the way to go. Pretty cheap too.

[hellion240sx]

yeah but i have seen a 240 with an autopower roll bar wrecked, and it was enough to convince anyone not to get it. didn't hold up well at all. so no go on autopower. don't gte it. cusco is chromoly (sp?) lighter and stronger. i was told by one of the main guys that i would need the specs on it to see what clas it would bein. the said i would be able to run it but i would be in like street prepared or something lik ethat. anyone know where i can get the specs on their roll bar?

[9524tee]

Im wondering if mine would pass , it has 4 actual chassis points , and 2 points that bolt into the wheelwells , and the rear tubing is 1 3/4 , the front tubing is 1 1/2 , with a halo in the front and side impact bars ... Heres some pics .

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/9524tee/Newcage2.jpg

[9524tee]

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/9524tee/Newcage.jpg

[9524tee]

Oh damn I forgot this thread was for the S13 , Sorry guys .

[zads]

That's okay.. but how fast are you gonna go in your auto anyway?? :cool:

[9524tee]

That's okay.. but how fast are you gonna go in your auto anyway?? :cool:

If your seriously being an asshole , then fuck you .

If your being cool about it , then I donno , I drive the hell out of it now actually , but it doesnt matter , cuz its getting swapped , and im going to go faster .

[hellion240sx]

:D how fast is burying the needle in my sr? :D if your being cool

how fast do you need to go if thats what it takes to get a roll bar? if not being cool

:) peace

[9524tee]

Well I go over 100 on legal tracks often , and I wanted to stiffen the chassis , so I said fuck it and got the cage . :wiggle:

[CAMFabrication]

Here's the thing, I can bend 1 1/4" DOm tubing with 2 fingers on my bender, as opposed to 1 1/2" ERW which takes 1 hand. You guys wanna save weight, you're looking into getting a cage for the wrong reason. I see all the time on this forum, people thinking chromoly is lighter, which is wrong. It's actually heavier per pound than 1020 mild steel. The reason why SOME 4130 cages are lighter than mild steel cages is because of the chromium molybelium that is mixed in with the metal, which makes it stronger.
Now you can use a thinner wall, MINUMUM .90 wall in my opinion and it should still be atleast 1 1/2". I mean.....I build light racks for prerunners out of thicker wall tubing than formula d requires. Oh yeah...from time to time I see people on this site refer to the phrase "ugly mig welds", I'm just curious where you guys see these welds. Sure more fabrication expirienced people may know that a mig weld can be just as clean as a tig if in the right hands, but occasionally this comes about and it's sparked my attention. My mig welds are better than most tigs. (the 4th one is a buddy of mine)

http://www.freeimagehosting.info/t.php?img=3ce551919d.jpg
http://www.freeimagehosting.info/t.php?img=474c54027f.jpg
http://www.freeimagehosting.info/t.php?img=43c0fa57ed.jpg
http://www.freeimagehosting.info/t.php?img=b7d4c591c9.jpg

[Wiisass]

9524tee, what cage is that? custom or something off the shelf? Whoever designed that needs to be smacked in the head with a mechanical design book. The "triangluation" attempt is pretty bad. No real nodes anywhere on that thing. I mean I'm sure it stiffens the car, which is great. But looking at it, if you were to flip and have the rear of the roof hit hard, it looks like the whole cage would collapse into the car. It would probably have to be pretty hard, but i'm pretty sure it would happen.

CAMfab, stop posting pics of ugly mig welds, you're hurting my eyes. Is that 4130 you're welding with a MIG, what wire are you using. I was always under the impression that it's generally a bad idea to MIG 4130. I even think I remember hearing somewhere that MIG'd 4130 cages weren't allowed because the welds couldn't be trusted, I think it was based on not enough penetration.

[Brian W.]

As far as i know MIG Welds are NOT allowed on 4130 by ANY sanctioning body.. IHRA, NHRA, SCCA, NASA. CAMFab... Your MIGs look awesome!!!...haha, im still dialing in my new machine for appearance reasons. I personally feel a MIG welded chromolly cage if welded at the proper amerage is just as strong as a TIG welded cage. the only "disadvantage" would be the appearance. I Personally MIG weld all of our cages and they are all Mild Steel.
Example:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v241/nakedgirlavalanche/baby/DSCF1973.jpg


more cna be found @ : http://www.ziptied.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5514


The door bars on this car were made a little low per the drivers request. Hes a tall guy and the car is for street use also, making it easier for him to slide in and out of.

[CAMFabrication]

SCORE International, Best in the Desert, MDR, MORE, SNORE, and every other offroad racing sanctioning body allows mig welding 4130. If they do (where there's alot more technology, at times much faster speeds, and much more dangerous/violent rollovers) allow mig welding chromoly, then I don't see a problem with it. I've done everything from migging long travel beams and trailing arms, to full cages (one of which rolled at 70mph and didn't break.) Also, keep in mind the FAA will approve mig welded chromoly on aircraft frames as well. There is absolutely no problem migging chromoly AS LONG as you know how to weld. Not to boast but not only am I certified mig in California and Massachusetts, I'm also Navy accredited, so in my eyes I see absolutely no problem mig welding 4130.

One question on your cage, your brace on your b pillar, is there a reason why you notched the horizontal tube? If you roll you're putting alot of lateral stress on that section. If it were me, I'd add an 1/8" gussett in there. Or you could do a dimple died box and be badass.

Oh yeah, and I use ER70S-6 wire

[Brian W.]

which horizontal brace are you speaking of? I appreciate your input.

[CAMFabrication]

http://www.freeimagehosting.info/t.php?img=c26d3492e1.jpg

[Brian W.]

Thats how just about every roll cage ive ever seen has done it. The Diagonal in the main hoop is there to support the hoop in a roll over. The other bars are for harness mounting but also serve as support to the hoop in say a side impact.

[brainfood]

I have a question to save labor when I prep my car for the cage should I pull the dash? I want an scca legal cage and am going to get it custom built for my s14, its still a street car but is getting more and more track each month so I want something that I can compete with and drive the 3-4 blocks to work if I dont walk. The dash will go back in the car and I am not sure if I should cut the dash and run the bar down behind it or if I should get it bent around the front of the dash any opinions?

[CAMFabrication]

I've see some S-14s run the bars infront of the dash, however I think it looks half assed and if you roll or get tboned hard say good by to your shins and knees 'cause they're gonna get smashed nice and good. My suggestion is (since you only drive 3 - 4 blocks) is just pull the stock dash and run the tube close in proximity to the a pillar, then notch the dash out when you reinstall it. Then use something to fill the gap (silicone or bondo if you even care about the gap.) Or you could do like I see on trucks is run it through your AC vent. Or you could go completely badass and get a custom aluminum dash made.

[brainfood]

I've see some S-14s run the bars infront of the dash, however I think it looks half assed and if you roll or get tboned hard say good by to your shins and knees 'cause they're gonna get smashed nice and good. My suggestion is (since you only drive 3 - 4 blocks) is just pull the stock dash and run the tube close in proximity to the a pillar, then notch the dash out when you reinstall it. Then use something to fill the gap (silicone or bondo if you even care about the gap.) Or you could do like I see on trucks is run it through your AC vent. Or you could go completely badass and get a custom aluminum dash made.

thanks I figured it would be a lot stronger run behind the dash. I think I want to keep the stock dash for now I do want to get the cage tied into the a pillar though so I think I will run it behind the dash and then just trim the dash to fit and reinstall. I should be able to trim the dash pretty close to the cage I dont see any reason to fill the remaining gap. I thought about using the stock dash as a mold and doing a custom fiberglass one it would be a hell of a lot lighter and then I could just paint it too. and then I could also mold some gauge pods into the dash also. I work so much right now not a lot of extra time though so for now it will just be the trimmed dash I think.

[reccakun08]

insane... nice cage................!!!