check engine light

[s14dr1ft3r]

When I bought my car, the previous owner informed me that the check engine light had just come on that same morning that I went to pick it up. I know it's also true because when it came on, he was on his way back from getting the car smogged. I have the smog cert as proof. The car passed with flying colors but now the CEL is on. Is there something that the people at the smog place could have done to cause this? I removed the passenger kick panel and activated the codes and it told me the following:

12 - Mass Airflow Sensor
33 - Front O2 Sensor
34 - Detonation (Knock) Sensor
84 - Automatic Tranny-to-Fuel Injection Communication Line
105 - EGR and Canister Control Valve (Solenoid) and
126 - Throttle Position Sensor A/T

I know the CEL topic has been covered before but in my search I didn't find anything about these particular codes coming up at the same time. Fact is, I'm completely clueless why all these codes would come up at the same time. I'm not in that big of a hurry to get it fixed as it was just smogged, but it is annoying. Oh yeah, my car is a 95 S14. Anybody have any ideas? Any help would be great. Thanks.

[Ritz S14]

Usually, if your ecu is throwing that many codes, then your ecu is faulty. Double check your codes.

Better yet, disconnect the battery, and drive it. Then if the light comes back on, recheck the codes again.

[s14dr1ft3r]

I have already tried resetting the codes and the first time I start it, the light is off but as soon as I turn it off and turn it back on again, the CEL is back on.

[Ritz S14]

You sure you read the codes right? If so, try borrowing an AT ECU, I'm sure there are plenty of those floating around for cheap.

[s14dr1ft3r]

Alright...I've been driving on it for quite some time now and it seems like my gas milage is declining rather quickly. The CEL is still on but now its only throwing codes 34 and 105. I checked the EGR to see if it was working and from what I can tell it is not. I feel underneath and rev the engine to see if it moves up but nothing happens. When I manually push it up, again nothing happens. I know the car should start to bog down and possibly even die but it doesn't. I don't know how to tel if its actually a bad EGR but I also checked the vacuum lines coming from it and all seem to be in great shape. The only concern that I have is that the hose that comes from underneath it it slightly kinked. While the engine was running I unkinked it and tried the egr test again but had no change. The only thing I noticed was the when I straightened the vacuum line, I could hear a louder "suction" noise. Unfortunately it will not stay unkinked on its own so I will have to replace that line. Does anyone know how to tell if the actual EGR itself is bad? Sorry for the newbie-ness.

[s14dr1ft3r]

today, I was showing a friend of mine (a fellow 240 owner) what I was talking about and after I unkinked that vacuum line, the EGR started working properly again. I was able to manage to straighten the line enough to keep the plunger functioning in the EGR but when I tried to reset my ECU, the same error codes keep coming up...any ideas?

[zubaz91]

i have a similar problem. i just bought my car and the CEL is on. the previous owner told me that it was just the CAS that needed to be replaced. but when i ran codes i got like 12-13 codes from it. i dont remember them all rite now. nevertheless, wtf is going on. also my car smells funny too, not sure what the cause of that is, but its likely related to one of the malfunctions