Stalling Problem....Yes i searched.....Please Help

[RyanA96]

Ok its a s14 with a redtop.

I start the car and it will idle fine up until it gets to like operating temp. Then the rpm's will slowly drop to like 400,300,200 and I turn off the car. Im not sure if it will stall on its own cause i dont let it. Im pretty sure it because im leaning out. I have an atmosphere BOV and am using an SAFC, trying to use the dec-air function but it seems no matter how i set it, it will still stall. Anyone have any ideas?????? please help thanks

[the head]

Best idea is to recirc your bov or get one that doesn't leak at idle (HKS SSQV)

also just let it die on its own the car may save itself and if your bov is open at idle you should be running rich not lean.

[dacatz]

i have s14 with s13 blacktop.....i don't have to use the dec air function for atmosphere bov....

[kuramaya]

You do not have to RECIRC, mine is fine..Have you set the Decel function correctly?
Start when the car is cold. (after an overnight rest is the best way, but at least several hours without running)
Turn key on, go to decel air settings.
Set throttle to 1%.
Set NE1 to about 4.
Set NE2 to about 5.
Start car.
Adjust NE1 until you get a smooth idle while the engine is still cold. Now start turning it down as low as possible while still maintaining a good idle.
If the car starts sputtering and getting rough, you just went too low. Turn it back up very slowly until it smooths out. You want to leave NE1 on the lowest possible point with a good idle.
Now set NE2 to be about 1 higher than NE1.
This formula should eliminate any stalling or popping from the BOV being open.
Theory: Throttle setting tells the SAFC whenever the pedal is depressed less than 1%, the SAFC should control fuel and ignore everything else (including the MAF)
NE1 is the first RPM point you have selected in your NE Point settings. I put mine at 1000 rpm. I set NE2 at 3000, then NE3 at 4000, and so on in 1000 increments. Setting NE1 down at 1000 gives you the ability to control fuel at idle really well. Besides, you probably don't need to adjust anything between 1000 and 3000. (turbo spools after that, right?)
Setting the air flow percentage at NE1 is basically telling the SAFC a number to use whenever it reaches that RPM and less than the throttle setting. So, as the throttle is let off, the SAFC looks at the NE1 and NE2 points. As RPM rolls back, there is going to be a reduction in air into the engine, yet the MAF has already seen it. The stock ECU is attempting to send the fuel for that air that is now missing... hence your stalling and backfiring. The SAFC catches that signal, ignores it, then tells the ECU exactly how much air flow you have according to your DEC AIR settings at those RPM points. Get it?
RPM comes down, hits NE2, SAFC sees 10%. It tells the ECU it needs 5%. (because you picked that number.) Now the RPM won't dive so hard like it was. It reaches NE1, SAFC sees 6%, you told it 4% and it tells the computer only 4%. The idle sets steadily down to where its supposed to and everybody is happy.
The SAFC is all about tricking the ECU into doing what you want it to.

[RyanA96]

Thanks for the reply's......recirculating my bov is my last resort....ive seen a bunch of redtops run fine with a atmoshere BOV.

Bjorkluv - I did basically set it up like that but i think i might have missed something, im gonna try it again. Thanks for all your info

I got one other question though. You know that whistle sound when you rev, that your suppose to have with a Greddy Type-S BOV. Mine just sound like a puff of air, it dont whistle at all. How do I ajust the BOV to sound like that, Ive ajusted the bolt on top to many different positions and it just seems to be the same.

Thanks for any help

[kuramaya]

Thanks for the reply's......recirculating my bov is my last resort....ive seen a bunch of redtops run fine with a atmoshere BOV.

Bjorkluv - I did basically set it up like that but i think i might have missed something, im gonna try it again. Thanks for all your info

I got one other question though. You know that whistle sound when you rev, that your suppose to have with a Greddy Type-S BOV. Mine just sound like a puff of air, it dont whistle at all. How do I ajust the BOV to sound like that, Ive ajusted the bolt on top to many different positions and it just seems to be the same.

Thanks for any help

well, you shouldnt get any whistle until you rev really high and release while sitting still, if you do get the whistle your shit is too loose....also if the BOV is too loose that can cause stalling as well,,really bad. alot of retards like their BOV's really loose so that they can release at low RPM's and Pose..but that is not the idea, I have mine so tight that i get compresser surge at low RPM shifts like even up to 2,200 RPMS..I dont want mine releasing unless I am driving hard and in the High RPM's...I think mine doesnt fully release until about 3,000 Or more, Ill check next time I drive, not today though going shopping with the wife...as far as adjusting, it is a long process to get it right, i actually did 90 degree turns one at a time from fully tight to get it rht where i wanted, drove, shifted, adjusted..over and over...I think yours is too loose thats why it is makeing that noise...go ahead and titghten it all the way down and do it like me...set yoru decel air corectly too..mine is perfect i can drive like a maniac and the rpms drop nicely back to 750..when i release the throttle..

[RyanA96]

Thanks Bjorkluv, Yea I never had it that tight before so tightening it down will probally help. Do you go until it won't turn no more? Im gonna do the dec-air settings over again and mess with the bov tomorrow. After I do these 2 things and if it still don't work, I think it might then be how my idle is set. How do you set your idle correctly? Thanks for the help, it really helped alot.

[kuramaya]

Thanks Bjorkluv, Yea I never had it that tight before so tightening it down will probally help. Do you go until it won't turn no more? Im gonna do the dec-air settings over again and mess with the bov tomorrow. After I do these 2 things and if it still don't work, I think it might then be how my idle is set. How do you set your idle correctly? Thanks for the help, it really helped alot.

okay, warning as all things that tighten on your car..the BOV adjustment screw (allen hole) can be broke if over torqued and we have broke things before and know this can happen..it is tight when you are turning with 1 finger and it doesnt turn anymore... first though if the car is cold, really cold set your decel correctly this has nothing to do with the BOV adjustment....once you get that set, it could correct your prblem unless it is too loose as i noted...then you can get to work on that..as far as idle it depends on your motor...what year motor again, and what is your idle sitting at now when the car is warm? 700-850 is pretty normal all dependent again on cams and many factors...without your car here its hard to troubleshoot

[RyanA96]

i have a s13 redtop, I tried setting the dec-air with the bov all the way tight and still there is no change. Could I maybe be leaking somewhere else? I've tried so many things, i hate my car alot right now.

[kuramaya]

i have a s13 redtop, I tried setting the dec-air with the bov all the way tight and still there is no change. Could I maybe be leaking somewhere else? I've tried so many things, i hate my car alot right now.

yeah you could have vacuum leaks, timing problems. crank angle sensor problems, unfortunately many problems are possible, where are all the other Zylvia members..seems they flame alot, talka bout wheels and body kist alot....how about helping this guy, I am out of ideas without troubleshooting the motor in person..he needs a local to look at his car...

oh your BOV, the vacuum line you tapped for it is the one that goes to the plenum right? How many T sections on there now? check all of them...how about the stock recirc valve is it gone, hopefully if it isnt, it is totally incapacitated...it should be right near your IC, if yours is still stock...

I think if its not the DECEL Setting correctable, BOV is tight enough and no vacuum leak its crank or timing related

[RyanA96]

I did the timing awhile back, im pretty sure i did it right cause it allowed my car to start, but if it was off alittle would that cause the problem?? O..I also ajusted the IAC screw and the throttle body one and it accually helped my idle some. It starts kinda hesitant(engine is warm) but its idling at 1000-900, the lowest it was able to idle so far. The idle is a shaking alittle though.

O I need to understand about the bov better, With the screw all the way out it is tight???? and when you start turning it with a wrench it get looser and losser?????

Thanks bjorkluv for all your info its really helping alot.

[nicku]

You do not have to RECIRC, mine is fine..Have you set the Decel function correctly?
Start when the car is cold. (after an overnight rest is the best way, but at least several hours without running)
Turn key on, go to decel air settings.
Set throttle to 1%.
Set NE1 to about 4.
Set NE2 to about 5.
Start car.
Adjust NE1 until you get a smooth idle while the engine is still cold. Now start turning it down as low as possible while still maintaining a good idle.
If the car starts sputtering and getting rough, you just went too low. Turn it back up very slowly until it smooths out. You want to leave NE1 on the lowest possible point with a good idle.
Now set NE2 to be about 1 higher than NE1.
This formula should eliminate any stalling or popping from the BOV being open.
Theory: Throttle setting tells the SAFC whenever the pedal is depressed less than 1%, the SAFC should control fuel and ignore everything else (including the MAF)
NE1 is the first RPM point you have selected in your NE Point settings. I put mine at 1000 rpm. I set NE2 at 3000, then NE3 at 4000, and so on in 1000 increments. Setting NE1 down at 1000 gives you the ability to control fuel at idle really well. Besides, you probably don't need to adjust anything between 1000 and 3000. (turbo spools after that, right?)
Setting the air flow percentage at NE1 is basically telling the SAFC a number to use whenever it reaches that RPM and less than the throttle setting. So, as the throttle is let off, the SAFC looks at the NE1 and NE2 points. As RPM rolls back, there is going to be a reduction in air into the engine, yet the MAF has already seen it. The stock ECU is attempting to send the fuel for that air that is now missing... hence your stalling and backfiring. The SAFC catches that signal, ignores it, then tells the ECU exactly how much air flow you have according to your DEC AIR settings at those RPM points. Get it?
RPM comes down, hits NE2, SAFC sees 10%. It tells the ECU it needs 5%. (because you picked that number.) Now the RPM won't dive so hard like it was. It reaches NE1, SAFC sees 6%, you told it 4% and it tells the computer only 4%. The idle sets steadily down to where its supposed to and everybody is happy.
The SAFC is all about tricking the ECU into doing what you want it to.

tried this setting....its getting better, but the second time after the car is cold, i started the car again, the idle wasnt smooth at all....the car just kept jerking. unless i give it some gas, and it smoothes out.

the other thing is the Ne2 point I couldnt make it as high as 3000. I think the max for Ne2 is 2800 or something but I am sure its less than 3000 and Ne3 is less than 4000 too

[nicku]

oh and when I am running the car, and suddenly step on clutch. the car doesnt stall anymore, but the rpm goes down to 500 and then goes back up. or it goes up to 1100 and goes back down to 800...or it goes down to 500 and goes up to 1100 and goes back down to 800