97 KA misfiring/stalling plus throwing codes

[thaiger77]

Well, my car is acting up. It doesn't want to start without having to get on the gas. Its running really, really rich. It tend to idle really low then shuts off when I stop at a lights or stop signs at random. Then sometimes it doesn't want to start back up, again, at random. It also throwing code 34(knock sensor), 13 (coolant temp sensor), and 41 (intake air temp sensor). I already replaced the spark plugs, coolant temp sensor, and by passes the intake air temp sensor by using and ohm resistor and the codes still came back. My next step is to check the timing by apparently our timing gun is missing or broken. It will starts nicely in the morning when it is cold and doesn't when it is warm at random. I found a trick that works is to turn on the air conditioning and it will idle a little higher and will stay right at 1000 rpm so it will not shut off while I'm driving. Other than that, not too sure what's going on. All this **** happened once I changed my clutch which has nothing to do with these sonsors. Oh, and my EGR pipe that connect to the exhaust manifold is clamp off cause we broke the connector to the exhaust manifold. That happened while we were putting in my Hotshot header. But it works for at least 6 months without throwing any code so it is not that. I don't know anyone who knows KA cause all my friends pretty much have SRs. So yeah, I'm clueless man. My friend recommend I change the plugs wires and distributor box. Any other advice??
_________________

[crazyJDMstyle]

move the distributor one way or the other and bolt it back down. see if there is any difference in the way the car runs, starts, idles, ect. If it does, its probably the timing.

I have know idea how in the world it happened but my car was doing sorta the same thing. At tdc, the cams or sprockets didnt line up like they were supposed to. Apparently somebody just comes and takes off the timing chain cover and the valve cover and rotates the cams and sprockets. but only in ka's though. :rolleyes:

[nissan_driver24]

i had a simalar problem when i had my ka... and my boss at work with over 22 years of experience told me that nissan has a big problem with their connectors... and when my car was acting up to wiggle the connectors to see if it is loose or has a bad connection... since ur car is running really rich like u said maybe check timing, ur distubutor cap, wires ect ect...

[vvtisupra]

i had that same problem ended up being a bad maf. Got the new maf it and cleared up all my knock sensor and egr valve codes

[thaiger77]

i had that same problem ended up being a bad maf. Got the new maf it and cleared up all my knock sensor and egr valve codes
Yeah, it did once throw a maf code along with the rest of the other codes. We just took it out, clean it, then it went away.

[idlafie]

Well, my car is acting up. It doesn't want to start without having to get on the gas. Its running really, really rich. It tend to idle really low then shuts off when I stop at a lights or stop signs at random. Then sometimes it doesn't want to start back up, again, at random. It also throwing code 34(knock sensor), 13 (coolant temp sensor), and 41 (intake air temp sensor). I already replaced the spark plugs, coolant temp sensor, and by passes the intake air temp sensor by using and ohm resistor and the codes still came back. My next step is to check the timing by apparently our timing gun is missing or broken. It will starts nicely in the morning when it is cold and doesn't when it is warm at random. I found a trick that works is to turn on the air conditioning and it will idle a little higher and will stay right at 1000 rpm so it will not shut off while I'm driving. Other than that, not too sure what's going on. All this **** happened once I changed my clutch which has nothing to do with these sonsors. Oh, and my EGR pipe that connect to the exhaust manifold is clamp off cause we broke the connector to the exhaust manifold. That happened while we were putting in my Hotshot header. But it works for at least 6 months without throwing any code so it is not that. I don't know anyone who knows KA cause all my friends pretty much have SRs. So yeah, I'm clueless man. My friend recommend I change the plugs wires and distributor box. Any other advice??
_________________
Thaiger,
Have you thought of downloading a FSM & learning a little about your KA motor?? The SEARCH function here on Zilvia should be able to help you locate one.
Getting down to your engine problems, when you swapped your clutch did you do the work or did someone else do the work? It's possible the wiring harness could have been damaged causing your ECU to kick codes. It's one possibility.
You say your car runs really really rich - how do you know? Can you smell unburned gasoline coming from your exhaust? Did you pull your spark plugs and smell gasoline on them? Are you sparkplugs carbon fouled?? Have you checked the vacuum line running to your fuel pressure regulator? If the vacuum line is disconnected or broken, then you'll get too much fuel dumping into your fuel injectors. That can cause your car to run real real rich. Symptoms of fuel pressure regulator problems are poor starting while the engine is warm, stalling immediately after starting, or misfiring under load.
As for your Knock Sensor and Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor codes, have you checked the ground wire that runs to your engine block directly above and to the right of your Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. If that ground wire goes bad, it's possible it could affect your sensor readings. Also check the REAR ground wires located on the engine block directly above the exhaust manifold by the oxygen sensor. Make sure those six or so ground wires are grounded to the firewall of your car body. A bad or shorted out ground wire can cause your sensors to malfunction & kick error codes.
The EGR piping is not a really big issue UNLESS you live in California. The lack of EGR piping will cause you to fail the biannual California Smog Check. The EGR system uses the gasses coming from the exhaust manifold to redirect your hot exhaust gasses back into the intake chamber during partial throttle operation...usually during cruising at a constant speed. The purpose is to prevent the formulation of Nitrogen Oxide gases, (NOX aka SMOG), which is a byproduct of the internal combustion engine.
Changing your distributor cap & rotor along with swapping out your spark plug wires can help, but if you might want to check for a vacuum leak in either your intake or vacuum purge lines located next to & underneath your intake manifold.
From what you describe, you're gonna need the FSM!!!
Anyhow, hope this helps...
ID
'95 SE

[thaiger77]

Wow, these are some great information. No, I didn't change the cluth by myself. It was an exhausting process since we do it in our own garage with no lift. And yes, I'm running rich because my brand new plug are really black when I check them and when the car do starts, big cloud of white smoke came out of the exhaust and yeah, you can smell the fuel. The car does dump too much fuel and also when I tried to starts more than 3 times in a row. However, I will get on that asap. Thank you very much!

[vik]

Coolant temp sensor is bad. not the one wire the two wire one. they are next to each other on the upper hose pipe on the intake.

[thaiger77]

Coolant temp sensor is bad. not the one wire the two wire one. they are next to each other on the upper hose pipe on the intake.
Well, I replaced the coolate temp sensor already. And it was the two wires one. However, the code still came back.

[vik]

wich code coolant temp sensor code?

[thaiger77]

wich code coolant temp sensor code?
code 13 according to 240sx.org
http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/ecm_codes_doch.htm

[ryan hagen]

when it comes to ka's the maf is the root of 90% of the problems

[idlafie]

when it comes to ka's the maf is the root of 90% of the problems

Not necessarily true. I've had the pleasure of working on several friends KA motors, (from the E's to the DE's -S13 & S14 variant). A good majority of problems are due to 1). a faulty Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor or Sensor wire. This usually results in a running-rich condition. 2). Either a dirty throttle body OR IAV valve - which results in an erratic idle or 3). A melted or leaking vacuum lines - which results in the motor stumbling / dying during idle or acceleration.
I have yet to come across a KA with a bad MAF. Diagnosing a bad MAF is pretty straightforward. Either it's a dirty signal wire due to being coated with oil from over-oiling the aftermarket air intake filter OR the MAF itself. A bad MAF will put the ECU into Fail-Safe mode. It will run, but won't rev over 2500 RPM AND the Check Engine Light on the dash will light up light a christmas tree.
These are just my experiences....would love to hear about yours though.....
ID
...weekend mechanic

[ryan hagen]

our little northern wisconson 240sx family consists of about 5 s13's. true about the coolant sensor i forgot about that problem, on all 5 cars we have to cahnge the temp sensors, some 2 or 3 times, aftermarket sensors kinda suck, any time you put any k&n style filter on the maf is screwed up about a a week or 2 later. the maf seems to get pissed if moist air ever hits it too. as we were driveing in my friends car it started miss and burble and power went right away and he was scared he blew his engine, i told him to rev it once and it hit 2500rpm, i was just maf is gone, when we pulled over the clip was cracked and came un pluged. mine did something similiar but it was just from the one part of the connector where it got so brittle it broke off. other wise i clean mine monthly cause of just random dirt or oil that ends up on the maf, i never oil my filter any more. one the one guys car the maf went bad internally for some reason and that car bounced all over the place as far as fuel. one other thing to watch is the tps wires, our cars are over 10 years old that stuff is brittle and just falls apart, that will also give the 2500rpm nasty limiter. my car needs a new engine harness bad, the check light goes on and off randomly and is alsmot all due to bad wires/connectors

so i guess i was wrong with my statement, its more every sensor and ever wire harness is old as hell so they are all just waiting for a reason to fail.

[vik]

if you still have that code and replaced the sensor with a factory unit (s13 unit is different if you tried that) i would concentrate on the conection and wiring, check continuity from ecm to sensor connector(these wires are labeled on the fsm)