Rebuilding my KA

[95zilvia]

Ok, hopefully I can get all my parts from hybridka.com

I have emailed them already for the list of parts and have no response yet.

Parts listed from http://hybridka.com/sohcoem.htm

KA24E Full Gasket Kit $125
KA24E Full Timing Chain Kit $85
KA24E Head Bolt Set $60

Total: $270 + $15 for brake clean n sealers.
Am I missing anything?

What else should I get replaced? And should I mill the head and such. I really don't want to mess with my lower block. Should I change my oil pump?


Anyone can recommend any other gasket kits or other companies that have them in stock? I need these gaskets ASAP, need to put the motor back together so I can smog!

[infinitexsound]

u should do the rings.. and bearings.. but hey ur money ur motor...

[Buffalo Daughter]

If your going to rebuild and buy the piston rings and you minus wells get new main bearings and rod bearings, new valve springs, new valves, new head gasket and all the other gaskets, timing chains are supposed to last a life time but if you want to go ahead. thats basically a brand new engine.

[infinitexsound]

thats the point of rebuilding... its suppose to be a brand new engine......dude doesnt want to do work to the block so what ever..i suppose the rings will go if the mileage is pretty high or even the bearings... hello rod knock...

[TNathe]

new valve springs, new valves, new head gasket and all the other gaskets, timing chains are supposed to last a life time but if you want to go ahead. thats basically a brand new engine.


wtf? You don't need new valve springs and valves as long as they are withing specs. And timing chains last a life time? How so? Chains stretch over time, no matter what kind of chain it is. Why do you think there are tensioners on them?

I think if your gonna go through the hassel of re-building, build somthing worth a flip! Otherwise just buy another used engine, it'll be cheaper and downtime will be minimal. Get your block machined, new low compression pistons, full bearing set, and boost that baby!

[95zilvia]

So yeah, I tore down the engine, and after pulling the oil pan, there were chunks in it.
It was the belt tensioner... it was in pieces.. actually, not the tensioner, it was the guide on the other side. Oh well.. And I found another site that has gaskets. store.yahoo.com/hm-performance/index.html
I wonder if their full gasket set includes a head gasket.

[Dream240]

thats the point of rebuilding... its suppose to be a brand new engine......dude doesnt want to do work to the block so what ever..i suppose the rings will go if the mileage is pretty high or even the bearings... hello rod knock...

Uh....the KA is a DOHC or SOHC either way there's no rods used on any OHC engine. That's OHV engines. So....no rod knock.

[Ritz S14]

Uh....the KA is a DOHC or SOHC either way there's no rods used on any OHC engine. That's OHV engines. So....no rod knock.

what do you call this then?

http://www.crower.com/misc/images/whats_new/econobillet.jpg

You're thinking of "push rods".

[weirdstyles.net]

what do you call this then?

http://www.crower.com/misc/images/whats_new/econobillet.jpg

You're thinking of "push rods".

oh

my

god

:Owned:

[Prep Guy]

if your gonna rebuild it, realy you should do the rings. burning oil and blowby isnt fun.

[95zilvia]

ok, so if i do the rings, do i have to change new pistons too? damnit, id idnt want to take off the crank...

[EchoOfSilence]

Uh....the KA is a DOHC or SOHC either way there's no rods used on any OHC engine. That's OHV engines. So....no rod knock.
:rofl:
Stay in the bay.

[infinitexsound]

its not that hard man i can rebuild my own engine easy, just follow specs.. i just need the financial fundings.. u can reuse ur stock pistons.. just clean it up real good.. hot tank it what ever... the rings i think it would be easy as well, wouldnt be that hard.to replace .just read the nissan manual and inspect the part.. you can even take the top of the pistons wetsand it to 500-800-1000-1500-2000 or however high the pro's do it and polish the mofo with a rouge bar and wool pad... mirror shine the thing..when u open up the engine and start seeing whats what.. then definetly you would understand... if u run into trouble theres always forums for help and then ur local machine shop..

taking off the crank is just removing the main bolts.. u gotta replace those bearing anyway..so do it... telling u all it takes is one bearing to slip and its BOOM! rod knock.. u wasted ur time and money and have to open the engine again to replace a bearing..

why do u think u need headbolts? wouldnt u just rather get some arp ones?
almost the same price..

dream240.. i suppose i am wrong then.. well would u tell me why there is a knock sensor on the engine im building in my garage?its a 16 valve... :Owned:

http://store1.yimg.com/I/hm-performance_1847_7753922 $387.20 w/ 10% off deal of a lifetime... if your gonna switch springs get performance ones if your gonna run a aftermarket cam... if u dont run a new cam then get oem ones.. reason why hes doing valve springs is because over time of use they tend to sag.. take those stock valves and clean them up and polish it.. if u have a drill press then its an easy job...

[Dream240]

well, when I read his post I was thinking "push rod knock" then I realized he meant connecting rod knock after I posted and didn't care to correct my post.

yeah....haw haw...I got owned. Live it up cause it rarely happens.....

[95zilvia]

infinitesound: the kit you directed me to was the 90-97 ka24e from a pickup, you sure that kit is the same?
also, does that kit include a headgasket or headbolts? i tried calling H+M, but they are closed for the weekend.

[SxMachine]

I suggest replacing everything with new oem parts (pistons, gaskets, bearings, rods) much easier on the pockets. Timing chain if needed same for oil pump. Hybridka has got some decent prices. I plan on replacing my pistons/rods, rings, bearings and oil pump for my ka24e because i know i need work there. I'm not going for an expensive rebuild because i don't plan on boosting the ka24e too hard or plan on keeping the ka24e in my 510. Do what u feel is neccesary (or u can afford) and be prepared for negative results.

[ryan hagen]

Uh....the KA is a DOHC or SOHC either way there's no rods used on any OHC engine. That's OHV engines. So....no rod knock.

"dream240.. i suppose i am wrong then.. well would u tell me why there is a knock sensor on the engine im building in my garage?its a 16 valve... "


ur both wrong partially, there can be rod knock in the connecting rods from a a worn bearing or a streched rod bolt. there are no bush rods in our engines, pushrods, eww. and the knock sensor on a ka24de is listening for combustion knock, in others words engine ping, it is produced by the engine running too lean or haveing a piece of glowing carbon that causes preignitio aka. knock. when the knock sensor hears the knock it retards our timing so we dont blow a ring land out or burn a a piston. hope i helped.

[Jeff240sx]

Can't a thread go on without idiocy and misinformation?
If you are going to rebuild it, do it right. Do things that you can only do with the motor out of the car. Replace the headbolts with new OEM if not going with ARP studs. Headbolts are torqued to failure, and CANNOT be reused.
If you don't have the money to hot tank, balance, order new pieces, bore, deck, hone, and replace bearings, oil pump, timing components, head gasket, head bolts.. just buy a new-to-you used motor. I would advise doing headwork now, because later it'll cost you 2 intake manifold gaskets, 1 set of exhaust manifold gaskets, a headgasket and more new heatbolts if you were to do springs/retainers or porting. If not, again, a used low mileage motor for $500 is probably your best bet. Few people have the resources or urge to fully rebuild a motor. Mine cost $3800 and I did alot of the work myself. RSE (racing service enthalpy) builds motors for $2000 in just labor, meaning a rebuild can cost nearly $5k fully outsourced to a professional building company.
-Jeff

[95zilvia]

Well, damn, now you guys are making me regret even taking the motor apart..
I had a non running 240sx, pulled that motor, bought another "running" one for $150. and took it apart.
Only thing I found wrong with it is like, 5 miles of dirt on everything, and worn ass vacuum hoses (as in, touch them and they break) and the tensioner was in pieces in the oil pan.
Oh well, I just want to pass smog damnit. DOn't even know how long I'll be using this KA as my other 240 s13 w/ redtop SR. I guess I just wanted the SOHC to be reliable and gas effecient so I can drive to Davis from SF to see my girlfriend, instead of puttin tremendous miles on my SR.


OK, so anyways, I have money to spend, and I love working on motors. That's the reason why I took classes at Skyline College right...

And I've still been trying to get a hold of hybridka.com they have no contact number. And they emailed me back like, once, but they didnt give me no contact info, and they take forever to respond to emails. Someone get a hold of me!

full gasket set (including head gasket)
headbolts
timing chain set (does this come w/ new tensioner?)
pistons and rings (maybe i'll reuse my old pistons.. i have some VERY minor scratches on the top of my old pistons from trying to scrape off the old black burned shit)

store.yaho.com/hm-performance/index.html has a full lower rebuild kit for the ka for the truck for like $350. should i just get that? and does that come w/ a headgasket.

and wow, that gasket for the neck where the oil filter bolts onto. that one is fucking hard as a rock, and hard to "chisel" off.

[Buffalo Daughter]

taking off the crank is just removing the main bolts.. u gotta replace those bearing anyway..so do it... telling u all it takes is one bearing to slip and its BOOM! rod knock.. u wasted ur time and money and have to open the engine again to replace a bearing..

why do u think u need headbolts? wouldnt u just rather get some arp ones?
almost the same price..

.


You do know that most, if not all head bolts are t-t-y (torque to yield bolts) and are one time use. Once you have torqued them down to specs the bolts are stretched into yield and are completely useless once they have been taken out. Can't use them twice unless you really want to fuck up your motor. Thats why when you take off your head to do a headgasket you get new head bolts.

wtf? You don't need new valve springs and valves as long as they are withing specs. And timing chains last a life time? How so? Chains stretch over time, no matter what kind of chain it is. Why do you think there are tensioners on them?

Well if you going to do a rebuild and you have the head off you minus well. After about 100k or so your valves don't retain the same strength it did when it was first put on. You'll prolly notice you losing rpms because the valve springs dont have the same tension as before. So change them. Its only like 20 bucks for new stock valves and prolly the same for springs. Why not freshen up the motor and get back the rpm lost from the old valves and springs? shit i would. Thats basically what gives you hp is mainly from your valvetrain. And as for the timing chains, if you dont beat your shit up then it should last a lifetime of the car, but if you drive it like your in a john woo flick then shit it won't last.

[95zilvia]

the timing chain tensioner is all fucked up and in the oil pan

i know i need new head bolt/studs

im going to call hm performance

[infinitexsound]

i guess all the ppl who took their cars to an mechanic shop got screwed, since doing a HG, timing chain/belt, or anything else that involves removing the head got screwed....cause they needed new headbolts... also WOW... i still think getting new headbolts is BS..

[95zilvia]

i guess all the ppl who took their cars to an mechanic shop got screwed, since doing a HG, timing chain/belt, or anything else that involves removing the head got screwed....cause they needed new headbolts... also WOW... i still think getting new headbolts is BS..

Ok, Im confused here, sarcasm right. Headbolts get stretched, and some even look funny when you pull em out. So. yeah. I finally bought a bunch of crap from HM Performance because HybridKA was too fucking slow w/ the replies so I sent my business somewhere else.

I ended up buying three sets of crap:
Timing Chain stuff
Full Gasket Set
Head bolt set.
It cost me total like $144.28 shipped

I decided to leave my lower block all the same and maybe just clean off the top of the pistons a little. Thanks for all your help fellas, and any more help is appreciated.

[Romeyo07]

minus well = might as well

Sorry I had to do it.

Are you looking to boost in the future or just n/a it? Personally, when rebuilding motors I've made it a habbit of replacing everything (bearings, pistons, headbolts, etc.). Do it right the first time and you'll have nothing to worry about in the future. I went with ARP for peace of mind, but I'm sure stock replacement bolts will work just fine.

I can't wait to start on my rebuild.