ka24de motor prep, input please..

[AzNCmB]

Hey guys, this is my 1st post, I'm about to pick up a motor that i bought for 300 bucks. It has 69999 miles on it and i'm getting it for 300 bucks.
My goals are:
Install clutch, break it in and then turbo it, looking to get 220-250whp.

I'm not going all out with boost and will only run 7-9lbs and maybe 10 if i can get to it.

my setup:
ssa manifold/dumppipe
t25 sr turbo/370 injectors
walbro 255lph
safc 2
touge factory 3 inch downpipe
s13 sr smic with stock bov
z32 fuel filter
mbc

Basically i'm gonna run the same setup as bluebottlemax

Reason for lower mileage motor: well my car has 180k on it and i'm getting the motor really cheap and the turbo and injectors are going to me for 100 bucks, the safc, downpipe, smic/bov is also going to me for 350 bucks(new), and i will buy the manifold,dump pipe, and walbro from ebay ($300). Gaskets, lines, and fuel filter will prob be $150. 900 bucks total for turbo kit... not to bad

with this setup, moderate boost/power, with little/no turbo lag will be used for autox/drift events.


questions....

While i'm doing the motor swap, i would like to know what I should do while the motor is out the engine bay? I would like to do preventive maintance stuff and not anything crazy like a whole rebuild...because i will eventually/slowy rebuild my 180k motor and have it for a spare.

I know that i will be replacing the rear main seal since i already have the new clutch ready for install... front main seal will also go in. is there anything else you guys can think of that will not put my bank account in the negatives?

Also, the motor was probably sitting in the junkyard for 6months or more, is there anything i should do to lube the motor? Is it necessary for me to drain the oil, pull the valve cover and flush new oil through it? should I change the plugs or just swap my current plugs in instead of getting new ones? Should i also replace starter, alt, water pump with my current ones? should I remove the iaiv valve, egr, etc?

please let me know what should be done with the lowest amount of money involved...

thanks a bunch...

[kandyflip445]

Replace the PCV valve. Clean the idle control valve. clean the TB really good.

[Phlip]

Yes, get new plugs, they're cheap, yes, replace the water pump, no need to replace the starter or alternator, or PS pump if they aren't bad IAIV/EGR would be good to shitcan/block those while your engine is out of the car as well... If I am not mistaken, there have been a couple of threads on this same subject, you may wanna have a look around for those for some more pointers

[drftwerks]

Steam clean/ or presure wash the engine bay, while its out, looks way clean,and easiyest to do while engine is out.

[Al_S14]

re-seal oil pan. and make sure engine really has that many miles on it .... run a carfax on the vin. thats what i did when i got my ening and thought that 17k was too good to be true. also i'd consider replacing the valve seals since engine has been sitting for a while.

and last thing is Cometic multi layer steel head gasket .... a must if you plan to turbocharge it. cheap insurance and that way you'll know its good . who knows what happend to that car before it got sent to the yard

[AzNCmB]

thanks, anymore? i really dont want to take the motor apart...

[monkey7]

I would replace the timing chain, guides, seals since it is easier when the motor is out. Then clean the oil pan while at it. Just a safety net, you get to replace the old chain guides instead of it breaking later on.

[sgvis300]

REPLACE THE TIMING CHAIN!!! itll be SOOO much easier with the engine out. install forged pistons so you can boost safely. and an intercooler would be nice too.

[eyustfu]

the stock headgasket at that boost level will do fine, and at that milage a timing chain replacement is not that neccessary. Rear tranny seal would be a good idea to replace while everything is out.

[infinitexsound]

remove intank mani and install ur current one with a new gasket... waterpump, dont need a thermostat but its a good idea to replace that.... both seals, i would suggest running a better headgasket, oil pump, spark plugs , wires, clean the engine thoroughly, timing chain isnt necessary because im on 200k with the original, remove the upper guide tho,and while your doing that remove the complete front cover and redo the gasket. before u fully run the engine... do a compression test.. tap ur oil pan for a drain line for when u go turbo...plug it with something removable

[AzNCmB]

remove intank mani and install ur current one with a new gasket... waterpump, dont need a thermostat but its a good idea to replace that.... both seals, i would suggest running a better headgasket, oil pump, spark plugs , wires, clean the engine thoroughly, timing chain isnt necessary because im on 200k with the original, remove the upper guide tho,and while your doing that remove the complete front cover and redo the gasket. before u fully run the engine... do a compression test.. tap ur oil pan for a drain line for when u go turbo...plug it with something removable


thanks for the advice, but I won't be able to use my current intake manni. Why? well, my coolet bleeder screw got stripped and broke off.... we tried tapping it out using an autozone tap/die set, but the cheap ass tap broke inside the screw so a peice of graphite (or what ever it is made out of) is stuck inside there along with the part of the screw.....I didnt have no leaks for 8 monthsn now :( , i'll just clean the intake mani and throttle body thoroughly

[stuntman240]

You may want to weld a bung onto the oil pan and then plug it until you go turbo. Also on your parts list you didnt include oil lines!!

[Al_S14]

You may want to weld a bung onto the oil pan and then plug it until you go turbo. Also on your parts list you didnt include oil lines!!

i think i may want to do that to the engien i am building now....where can i get one of those?

[AzNCmB]

You may want to weld a bung onto the oil pan and then plug it until you go turbo. Also on your parts list you didnt include oil lines!!


DOH, you are aright, I did have it with my plans but forgot to mention it earlier, but I will be using these lines/stuff:
from JGSTurbo.com....
TK168 Standard T25/T28 outlet - 1/2" NPT
TA004-GT 48" line w/ inverted flare adapter $54.99
TA046 1/2" NPT Steel bung $1.99
24" Lenght TK168 T25/28 $34.49

from https://vs01.tvsecure.com/~vs01037/orders/index.htm
313 1/16 In. Restrictor Orifice - Controls Oil Flow into Frantz Oil Filter, $2.50



Ok, today I took off the valve cover to see if any creatures were living underneath and I found OLD OIL THAT TURNED INTO SLUDGE/CRUDE....IT WAS LIKE black jello... :tweak: :ugh:

here are pics
http://img100.echo.cx/img100/7297/img00722oi.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)
http://img100.echo.cx/img100/3139/img00752pw.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)
That is some of the jello oil that i picked off of one of the cams.. :-(
http://img100.echo.cx/img100/8782/img00762uj.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)
Do you see how glazed the oil looks?
http://img100.echo.cx/img100/3464/img00776cd.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)
http://img100.echo.cx/img100/6598/img00785jh.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)
http://img100.echo.cx/img100/9641/img00791fy.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)
http://img100.echo.cx/img100/2711/img00812tn.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

I'm assumming that the oil turned like this because of the motor sitting very long and the oil wasn't circulated at all.... the oil in the pain is still liquid though....I plan on switching my current valve cover to this motor... When I do switch them, I plan on pooring some oil over th head so the motor can be lubed... do you think its ok if i swap the motor, hopefully crank it, and let it idle for 5-10 mins until it warms up, then shut it off, and drain the oil? Do you think the sludge would clogg anything up?

Also, any other info would be greatly appreciated..

thanks, you guys are awesome

[AzNCmB]

can anyone help me?

[EchoOfSilence]

wow. um. you're gonna have to take that motor apart and powerwash it...

[runyun]

check the oil pickup screen, clean it very well. do not break this stuff up in the head with the oil pan on because it will clogg the screen and starve your engine. this happens when people do not change the oil, i would seriously consider getting another engine

[Al_S14]

regardless of wether this is from sitting or lack of oil changes i would not put it in the car as it is. at very least remove oil pump and regulator valve .. clean those . then the pickup scheen as someone mentioned . then remove the head and hottank it at local engine shop this way you will get rid of most gunk that can prevent catastrophic failure.

when i got my engine few months back and pulled the plug to drain the oil it was thicker then jello......it took nearly two hours for that four quarts to drain. keep in mind that it set on a shelf since 1999. i did not have anywehre near as much gunk on the valve cover and only way i can see it having so much on it is if engine was on its side or tilted so that there was oil on head for a long time. which seems logical because even if oil was not changed at right intervals then it would run down from the valve cover and as far as i can see couldnt have created such thick layer of gunk.
take a look at my page i got some pics of my motor apart....its like a really big puzzle and not as bad as you may think. a lot of fun i may say

http://www.cardomain.com/id/al_s14

[AzNCmB]

thanks for the advice guys, the car was in a wrecked car and the car was on its correct side, the wreck was on the front driver side corner and was not that bad, but i've decided to take this motor apart and do a stock rebuild....i'll up the pistons to forged ones and use a better head gasket. due to lack of funds, it might take me 2-3 months to get it rebuilt though... :( anyone think its a good idea if i rebuild it outdoors beacause I dont have a garage or any covering... :( i may just by a tent and put it in the back yard and cover everything up with plastic or something...

thanks again...

[S14DB]

That's oil that broke down cause they never changed it. If it was from sitting it would not be loaded up in the valve cover. When it breaks down from driving it gets stuck in the valve cover like that.

I would not doubt that there is some oil stavation isues with that motor. A rebuild is nessary. Hot tank it. replace the conumeables.

I would replace the pistons with forged ones. You as may as well do it now. Once you go for the boost you'll want more down the road. It's cheaper now then later cause most pistons are .020 overbore. Also, ARP main and headstuds and a good gasket.

[infinitexsound]

motors no good needs... to be cleaned... for daymn sure....and definetly would do a full rebuild..... sorry man... tough break

[ghostuss]

that sucks. I am in the same shoes, haha almost. HIgh mileage KA, getting a new rebuilt one in there. Not gonna rebuilt it myself. Way too time consuming and I have school. You better off just order a rebuilt engine block from Boostdesign. Comes with manifold and Dp that you can sell to pay for shipping.

[AzNCmB]

that sucks. I am in the same shoes, haha almost. HIgh mileage KA, getting a new rebuilt one in there. Not gonna rebuilt it myself. Way too time consuming and I have school. You better off just order a rebuilt engine block from Boostdesign. Comes with manifold and Dp that you can sell to pay for shipping.


I would get the bd built motor, but I dont have 2g's to shell out right now, and no offense to bd, but with bd's wait time for shipping, i can prob have my motor rebuilt and dropped into my car...