'95 engine/electrical issues, please help!

[higatsuku]

Yesterday my checked engine light came on and I took it right to auto zone and plugged in the ODBII scanner. I got two codes off of it.

p1320 is listed in the FSM as a Ignition Signal-Primary
p0325 is listed in the FSM as a Knock Sensor

I have the trouble shooting steps for each item, however because they happened at the same time I was wondering if the two are related in if so, would that pinpoint a particular issue. I was thing before looking in the fsm that I should just do new plugs and a new alternator. after reading those codes, I am not so sure.

The car exhibits the following issues:
When driving, if I remove my foot from the gas pedal the engine rpm will slow and then race. last night when I had the car stopped before parking it, the lights would dim and brighten repeatedly. This morning, before I had it towed, I was stopped at an intersection and it stalled.

I have an fsm right here for reference, I am relatively a newbie at auto repair however I had done breaks, plugs, oil changes, things like that. Engine/mechanical or electrical maybe a little over my head. I am trying to determine whether or not I should take it to the dealer or procede with troubleshooting on my own. i have a second car, so time isn't so much a factor. Any help feedback would be great. sorry for posting before I search.

[idlafie]

Yesterday my checked engine light came on and I took it right to auto zone and plugged in the ODBII scanner. I got two codes off of it.

p1320 is listed in the FSM as a Ignition Signal-Primary
p0325 is listed in the FSM as a Knock Sensor

I have the trouble shooting steps for each item, however because they happened at the same time I was wondering if the two are related in if so, would that pinpoint a particular issue.


Check your wiring harness from the distributor & the Knock Sensor all the way from ground to the ECU. Might be due to a bad ground connection or bad/loose wiring harness pin in the connectors


I was thing before looking in the fsm that I should just do new plugs and a new alternator. after reading those codes, I am not so sure.


Do the new plugs along with swapping out your distributor cap & rotor. Also make sure you check your spark plug wires with an ohm meter/voltmeter/continuity tester. You want to make sure there are no shorts in your spark plug wires. While you are at it, use the voltmeter to check the alternator output by measuring the voltage at the battery while the car is running. It should be around 14.4 Volts. Anything lower means either dirty battery cable contacts, electrical short in the battery wires, a battery that is no longer capable of holding a charge or a alternator that is no longer working within specs - the voltage regulator built into the alternator may have crapped out.


The car exhibits the following issues:
When driving, if I remove my foot from the gas pedal the engine rpm will slow and then race. last night when I had the car stopped before parking it, the lights would dim and brighten repeatedly. This morning, before I had it towed, I was stopped at an intersection and it stalled.


Your funny idle problems could be due to fuel pump crapping out on you, clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pressure regulator, bad/clogged fuel injectors, dirty throttle body, dirty/bad IACV air regulator valve, or just poor timing.

Easiest thing to do is just perform a tuneup on your motor. Change air & fuel filter, replace your existing spark plugs with new ones - check to make sure the gap is set at .039-.044. Check your spark plug wires - replace if any are bad. Put in a new distributor cap & rotor. Pour some Seafoam in your gas tank & throttle body to clean out the carbon buildup you have inside your combustion chamber. http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm
Once you've poured Seafoam into your gas tank & cleaned out your fuel injectors & throttle body, check your timing. Make sure it is set at 20 degrees +/- 2 degrees. You might have to readjust your distributor to compensate. After you've reset your timing, then check your idle by disconnecting the throttle body wiring subharness. Set your idle to 650 RPM +/- 50 RPM. After you have set your idle, reconnect your throttle body wiring subharness. Your idle should set to 700 rpm.


I have an fsm right here for reference, I am relatively a newbie at auto repair however I had done breaks, plugs, oil changes, things like that. Engine/mechanical or electrical maybe a little over my head. I am trying to determine whether or not I should take it to the dealer or procede with troubleshooting on my own. i have a second car, so time isn't so much a factor. Any help feedback would be great. sorry for posting before I search.

Being a newbie is not a problem - you're just not familiar with the 240 as some people are. With time that will change. If you are able to perform brake jobs, oil changes & plugs, then you should be able to perform a tuneup on your car PROVIDED you have all the proper equipment - mostly a Timing gun & tachometer. Try doing the tuneup first. You'll find that by swapping out your air & fuel filter, cleaning out your fuel injectors & throttle body, changing the sparkplugs, distributor cap & rotor & checking your spark plug wires that you'll have cleaned up your idle problems. If the above maintenance doesn't work, then you've got a more serious problem on your hands.

Anyhow, I hope the above helps. Let us know the results once you do the above.
ID
'95 SE

[higatsuku]

WOW! thats awsome!
Thanks. I'll Let you know what happens.

[higatsuku]

Well I replaced the plugs, the distributor cap and rotor. Those needed to be done anyway. My dad was poking around at different cables while the engine was running. Every time he would poke the wires connected to the fuel injectors...that harness that runs along the top of the engine near the intake maifoldt, it would begin to stall the engine. Also i would hear a constant clicking sound as if an electric switch was repeatedly flickering on and off. My guess as to the clicking is that it is the knock sensor. As for the short in the wires, I have no idea what is involved as far as replacing that harness or if there are better ways to fix it.

[idlafie]

Well I replaced the plugs, the distributor cap and rotor. Those needed to be done anyway. My dad was poking around at different cables while the engine was running. Every time he would poke the wires connected to the fuel injectors...that harness that runs along the top of the engine near the intake maifoldt, it would begin to stall the engine. Also i would hear a constant clicking sound as if an electric switch was repeatedly flickering on and off. My guess as to the clicking is that it is the knock sensor. As for the short in the wires, I have no idea what is involved as far as replacing that harness or if there are better ways to fix it.

From what you describe it might be a short in the wiring harness leading to the fuel injectors. It's NOT your knock sensor - knock sensors do NOT click. Try wiggling the wires & the plug harness that lead to each fuel injector & see if you can hear that clicking sound. The pins leading to the fuel injectors are known to go bad on 240's. Don't ask me why but they do.

Also, have you tried putting your ECU into diagnostic mode & see if your ECU is kicking out any trouble codes. Usually if you have a wiring harness problem, putting your ECU into diagnostic mode can sometimes help you to figure out which wire is causing your problem.

Anyhow, hope this helps..
ID

PS:
You might want to a quick search to see if there are any local NY guys that can help you out.

[datsundime]

i had a knock sensor problem too. check the plug that goes to the kknock sensor. there was moisture and gunk build up in the connector. clean it out with carb cleaner then shoot some wd40 into it to prevent future moisture to collect. i hope this helps. BTW a needle nose pliers will help you pull out the plug.

S14 240 ka

[higatsuku]

I started poking around a little more and taking things apart. Really quickly I discovered that there is a nice intrusion on the harness made by a corner of the engine block!!! I haven't pulled it apart anymore, however I going to let the ecm reset overnight and see if this is actually what is causing the engine to throw codes on me.

I am handy with a soldering iron...should I splice new wire? or patch it and leave it?

[higatsuku]

I taped it up nice and put some new wire wrap on it. The cables were still good except for a small spot. No matter, its good now. the lights are brighter and the stereo is louder.

The only problem I have now is a nice, harsh engine tapping sound that is comming from underneeth the valve cover. It is in the front, about 3 inches to the left of the old cap, and about .5 inches down. I used a screwdrive to pin point it. It drives me nuts. I need to get that taken care of.