How would you justify spending 1000 for a FMIC??

[ghostuss]

For bodykit, cheap kit = bad fitment, weak material. So what can be different between a 300 good quality custom intercooler and a 800-1000 name brand one except for the brand itself? Is it really worth the 700 dollar difference? Just wondering what can possibilly go wrong with FMIC and if there is any advantages in performance for name brand intercooler. I know for a fact this $500-700 saved can yield a better number if spent in other mods.

[wootwoot]

Can you weld or have any friends that can? Even name brand cores are not very expensive at all, the piping kits are what costs the bling. Ebay has some decent cores from time to time

[speeddreamz]

Size, and tube-fin or bar plate design, thickness etc.

[91CRXsiR]

How would you justify spending 1000 for a FMIC??

- if it came w/ a blowjob
hahha j/p why not just buy a used one? lots of kids spend too much money on new parts and when those creditors start calling u can get a steal on a used part

[s13dan]

I have never had a freind with a name brand intercooler, or piping, and where talking 800-1000$ with piping i hope. And all my frinds at one point or another had a proble with leaks or piping coming off or something. where as i spent 700$ for my front mount and piping and have never had ANY problems what so ever..

[ghostuss]

Size, and tube-fin or bar plate design, thickness etc.

size and thickness is not an issue here. note "custom", can make the exact size as HKS or ARC or Greddy or Blitz. Fin design is probably the only major difference but overall they are all similar except for ARC with a little twist. But when you look at the dollar difference, the amount can be put somewhere else to get you the power loss and if not gain you more power. E.g. a Port polish or Cam or lighten up your drivetrain.

Anyone know how much power increase does special Fin design would give? If no testing was done, maybe an estimate?

[WanganRunner]

Because $980 for Top Secret FMIC = jay dee em Tizyte. 8itches like expensive FMICs...

Or something like that...don't ask me, I wouldn't buy one unless I REALLY had a ton of $$$ to blow. I'd rather buy the cheaper FMIC and then spend the extra money to rig up a V-mount.

[infinitexsound]

ahh yeap... id be happy with a cheapo purpose brand then a tight jdm 1k one... why because it doesnt come with a meso blow job.... and its just a waste of BLOODY money...theres better things that can be bought... just wait for a rich kid kickn down a good IC kit... for dirtay cheap..because he couldnt afford to make payments on his CC hahahhahhaha

[s14turbosilvia]

i just bought my vspl on ebay for $625 shipped.
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=75607
ebay members name is "carpartsbyme"

[eyustfu]

i think the Greddy FMIC kits are a good deal for what they are, it comes with everything you need pretty much and bolts in. As for JDM brands like HKS/ARC, i think its pretty much for bling if your not aiming for a high power goal

[s14srpilot]

I have the Greddy RSPL since I was able to afford it. It comes with super bling polished piping and has perfect fitment. The bottom line: It's a matter of choice and affordability. I like the RSPL because it's tried and true: It helped the jspec.com s14 put down over 400whp. You gotta pay to play and if you do, you get what you pay for.

[ghostuss]

:x: I have the Greddy RSPL since I was able to afford it. It comes with super bling polished piping and has perfect fitment. The bottom line: It's a matter of choice and affordability. I like the RSPL because it's tried and true: It helped the jspec.com s14 put down over 400whp. You gotta pay to play and if you do, you get what you pay for.

What if there is a custom FMIC that is proven? I am sure some good USDM shops can make proven FMIC... JDM name brand or USDM custom ones? I dunno you tell me if it's worth the 500-700 extra dollars? I am sure no one will have problem having extra 500-700 dollars to spend on mods, heeh if you do I got my paypal account ready here :x:

[sideviewcivic]

its called spend 300 and get the IC core and endtanks. spend another 300 to get a koyo. then drop 2grand and have v-mount done up by Signal themselves and be happy because your JDM hottness now.

[BobbyBoy]

I justified spending the dough because I had one of those hack together jobs, and needed something nice and professional, ples it should handle a tad more power, and it should be the last interccoler Im going to need unless I wreck it.

I found out when you skimp on something, like motor parts or suspension, you end up going back again and doing it right the second time.

[sykikchimp]

I justified spending the dough because I had one of those hack together jobs, and needed something nice and professional, ples it should handle a tad more power, and it should be the last interccoler Im going to need unless I wreck it.

I found out when you skimp on something, like motor parts or suspension, you end up going back again and doing it right the second time.


I agree 100% with this. The kits fit better, look better, and will probably last longer.

[mjjstang]

I did because I got in on the arc GB and thought it was a good deal, still dont know if it was, but its a nice piece and fits pretty well, kinda, and I had 900 bux burning a hole in my pocket,

[TheSpeedFactor]

If there was anything on your car that you don't want to be cheap it is the intercooler. There are so many intercoolers out there that people really need to watch out. A lot of places are using old truck cores and cutting them down, or cores that were designed for fluid and not air. I have seen some crazy shit being sold and needless to say its performance isn't all that great either.

The brand names are good because they are going to fit just right and the install will be easier. I am not a fan of tube and fin cores which is the "brand name" core of choice but rather bar and plate cores that allow for better cooling and efficiency.

Intercooler selection should be done with consideration of the long term goals of your car.

If you are sticking with a T-28, T-25 or even a GT28 then most Greddy, HKS, Blitz Etc.... will do you fine. Starting getting big like t3/t4 turbos or GT30 based applications and you will start to see that the cooling ability of the core will lack what you need to make the power.

WE use nothing but bar and plate for all of our intercoolers, DSM, MR-2, WRX, EVO and maybe even 240 soon. Bar and plate is the way to go and if you do want to fab something up yourself then by all means go for it, just make sure you use a Garrett, Spearco or other good bar and plate core.

just food for thought.

thanks for the space and happy boosting.

[s14srpilot]

I justified spending the dough because I had one of those hack together jobs, and needed something nice and professional, ples it should handle a tad more power, and it should be the last interccoler Im going to need unless I wreck it.

I found out when you skimp on something, like motor parts or suspension, you end up going back again and doing it right the second time.

That is the most compelling reason to spend extra for doing it right the first time. I've taken the short cut route before thinking I would save money and I always got burned. At least now I know that I have a good FMIC

[drftwerks]

i would justify spending more than a 1g if it was a v mount ready

[Yoshi]

You gotta pay to play, period.
$1k is a bit much for a base level bolt-on type from GReddy or HKS etc, 7-800 seems about right unless you're going for the R-SPL or something. Making cars go fast isn't cheap :(

[s14turbosilvia]

Just because I got my VSPL doesn't mean my car is gonna fall apart, or my intake temps are going to soar. I got it based on my long term goals of the car. If I had short term goals, I would have ordered a stock smic. My long term goals are nothing too far over 350hp and 16lbs of boost. I think something basic with decent quality, fitment, and construction would do me just fine. So I went with the VSPL. And maybe someday, I can cut the end tanks off, weld some new ones on and turn it into a v-mount.

[s14srpilot]

I could have spent $700 on a VSPL but I decided to spend an extra $140 and get the RSPL for $840. IIRC the VSPL maxes out at 400whp and the RSPL is good for over 400whp. I didn't want to limit myself just in case. But what really matters is that you are happy with your choice :D

[HyperTek]

you can also make your own dress and save wayyy less... but it just wont have that quality a pre-made one will have.

with some jdm bizznizzle, you can turn around and sell your car for a wad load more cash... assclowns are more familur wiht the names of "HKS" or "GREDDY"... not "Earl's Muffler Shop" haha

[90rps13]

Just get a used one... I got a Greddy vspec on ebay with all the piping plus a hotpipe with a type s bov all for $430 shipped. IC was used but the hotpipe and bov were new. The only thing wrong was the hotpipe had a small crack on it that I welded up for like $15. Everything fits great, looks good, can't beat that...

[turbozxi]

SSAC intercooler with custom piping :boink:

[TheSnail]

The best bang for my buck was the 640$(great deal) spearco I/C, and 300$(great deal) Custom piping. Custom brackets etc, t-bolt clamps (65$)(expencive), Turbonetics couplers (90$) (expencive). Fits like or better then a kit, and is good for over double the hp of a 650$ Greddy. For the best, you have to make your own, nore that or your looking at 1.5-2g intercoolers. If your sticking to around 400hp, then go with a nice kit, and have a direct bolt on for 700$. How much you spend is all about your hp goal.

[Rezlo]

:bigok: SSAC intercooler with custom piping :boink:

I think coolers are totaly overated, Ive run 7" tall 27" wide 3 and 3.5" deep coolers on every 4 and 6 banger we've built and have yet to have one suffer from high intake charge temps,

After looking at the MAMOTH size coolers greddy and the rest of the larger companies make I think that its not about temprature, its about cfm threw the core to support different sized turbo's flow charactaristics.

One thing i see is 90% of the pictures of S13's/14's you can only see 1/2 of the cooler threw the bumper, what is the point if 1/2 the cooler is getting chilled and 1/2 of behind the bumper stays hot and lets that hot air get to the outlet side of the cooler? non the less kill most of the airflow to the radiator?

Sure kits are awsome, but do you realy need a core thats 12" tall? especialy on a car with a stock or even mild turbo upgrade?

Out of the 25+ cars we've done custom kits on not one of them has needed more than 7" tall intercooler, we had a DSM we did a kit for, all 2.5" manderal, SSAC 27X6.5X3.5 made 340whp at 18psi, he had somone back into his car a few weeks latter and got paid out nicely from insurance, went and got a nice name brand FMIC kit, came back for a retune, lost 2psi and 18whp (mainly from presure drop), intake charge temp was 3degrees hotter and it was a 15 degree cooler day.

Just my 2c, if u got the money and cant fabricate why not buy a kit, if you dont have the money or want to actualy atempt to do somthing thats not out the box a fmic is a good starting point when you do it right, just choose a core type to corespond with what you are trying to do.

[my240iguanas]

i cant justify the money it cost for a v-mount , sure it looks sexy until you see the IC piping welds , its embarrassing to say it came from signal , i have a huge greddy front mount with custom piping together i spent 800 i think you can just buy the FMIC and make your own piping like everyone else, and remember if you get a fmic , you might need more boost to avoid pressure droppage

[ghostuss]

:bigok:

I think coolers are totaly overated, Ive run 7" tall 27" wide 3 and 3.5" deep coolers on every 4 and 6 banger we've built and have yet to have one suffer from high intake charge temps,

After looking at the MAMOTH size coolers greddy and the rest of the larger companies make I think that its not about temprature, its about cfm threw the core to support different sized turbo's flow charactaristics.

One thing i see is 90% of the pictures of S13's/14's you can only see 1/2 of the cooler threw the bumper, what is the point if 1/2 the cooler is getting chilled and 1/2 of behind the bumper stays hot and lets that hot air get to the outlet side of the cooler? non the less kill most of the airflow to the radiator?

Sure kits are awsome, but do you realy need a core thats 12" tall? especialy on a car with a stock or even mild turbo upgrade?

Out of the 25+ cars we've done custom kits on not one of them has needed more than 7" tall intercooler, we had a DSM we did a kit for, all 2.5" manderal, SSAC 27X6.5X3.5 made 340whp at 18psi, he had somone back into his car a few weeks latter and got paid out nicely from insurance, went and got a nice name brand FMIC kit, came back for a retune, lost 2psi and 18whp (mainly from presure drop), intake charge temp was 3degrees hotter and it was a 15 degree cooler day.

Just my 2c, if u got the money and cant fabricate why not buy a kit, if you dont have the money or want to actualy atempt to do somthing thats not out the box a fmic is a good starting point when you do it right, just choose a core type to corespond with what you are trying to do.

nicely put. I hate worshipping jdm blindly. I like the sport of drifting and modified car, jdm or usdm. People that are faster on the track or better at drifting earn my respect.

[sr240mike]

Greddy VSPL, no custom anything needed, $636 shipped on ebay, how the hell can you beat that?

[420sx]

hmm lets see, a decent core for around 200 bux get some prefabed pipes, cut and bang, go get whatever u eneed welded - and you got a fine working intercooler setup for under 400 bux. fuck that?

[Rezlo]

Greddy VSPL, no custom anything needed, $636 shipped on ebay, how the hell can you beat that?

SSAC fmic $200 shipped
3X 2.5" manderal $50 shipped summitracing
$5 hack saw
$20-30 welding shop
$70 powercoater

Total = +/- $350
Being origional = Priceless

[Modern]

i paid almost 1k on mine. 24X12X3.5 bar and plate with apex endtanks

[bing]

i think people are getting a little off topic.

the reason why a $300 IC is not always a good idea is because having the piping professionally done will bring the cost up near the greddy VSPL anyways.

so then you have a $300 intercooler and whole bunch of welds on your aluminum piping. there is not necessarily wrong with that but it greatly increases the margin for error. especially if you try and skimp there too.

there is something to be said for time as well. buying a full kit will save you hours of welding if you can do it and have all the tools.

if you dont have the time or tools then the VSPL is definately the better bargain.

and it is probably true that the RSPL will not be necessary over the VSPL for most of the street driven cars on here anyways.

i have the VSPL and like only have the core gets flow. meh...