KA took a shat today :(

[rancid240]

Background info:
Every once in a while the KA would have trouble starting up, as in I would start it, it would go up to 1k then immediately die. However all I had to do was lightly depress the gas for about 15 seconds during startup, then the car would idle correctly.

Last week however the car did this everytime at startup, and the idiot light came on. Never got around to checking what it was since the problem wasnt bothersome enough.

Recently on the way to fedex to home (3 block drive) the car bogged during shifts. It died on my driveway and will not start at all. The starter runs and the whole car shakes as the engine turns over, but it will not start. I noticed though that the car smells like a mixture of fuel/ass afterwards though. Im thinking its just an ignition problem but I wont be able to check until tomorrow. Just wondering any tips/recommendations you guys have in the mean time.

[justinhustle]

iac valve is what would be the previous problem at startup

i used to have it on my s/c'd maxima....

[240Driver39]

i vote for leaking injector/fuel problem.

[ss045]

take out the plugs and dry the chambers out or let it set over night. the fuel will evaporate easily. the bogging sounds like a maf problem.

[rancid240]

Pulled all the plugs today. They were all coverd in black soot, replaced them, but problem still persits. Car also emits black smoke when it bogs.

Suggestions?

[420sx]

its burning oil, ur running ultra rich.

1) find a MAF asap swap it see if it does anything.
2) if that dont work check all your injectors by unpluging the injector harness while the car is running to see if any of them is faulty.
3) lastly could be a vacuum leak. but i doubt it

[rancid240]

if i run the car, and unplug the MAF, what should i expect if its faulty?

[aa87]

that shouldnt help, it'll just die on you, or atleast mine does. just switch with someone with a working one and see results.

[rancid240]

I unplugged it for shits today. When I pulled it the idle dropped a tad and the car wouldnt pass 3.5k, when i plugged it in it died immediately.

[mooboy]

Sounds like bad maf.

[ss045]

check the white wire at the maf plug

[The Hamsterball]

Every single one of these posts are useless.

A bunch of guys that think that just because their KA didn't start because of a MAF problem, or an injector problem, or a IACV problem, every KA doesn't start because of that.

Don't diagnose shit without seeing firsthand people.

There aren't any "I bet it's this!" games. shit...
i hate when people try to figure out a problem without knowing all the details.

Don't make assumptions, but give RECOMMENDATIONS on "WHAT TO CHECK FOR" instead of blatantly stating what his problem is without knowing.




Here's my advice:

# fucking 1: Turn your key to the ON position.
AND CHECK YOUR FUCKING ECU CODE.

Why wouldn't you, ESPECIALLY when you're having a start up problem. the code might give you some answers.. shit..

"duuhh.. i don't know why my car won't start. But i have a check engine light. But i'm too lazy to check it.
What's my probleM!?"


#2: If you're smelling fuel/ass while after CRANKING YOUR CAR FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME.

That usually means.. YOU ARE FLOODING YOUR ENGINE WITH FUEL ON START UP.

Usually it's not a good idea to do that IF YOU'RE ENGINE GETS FLOODED WITH FUEL ON START UP.



Leave the car for 3 hours. Try to start it again after that.
Crank it for no longer than 10 seconds.

If you smell fuel, your engine probably is delivering too much fuel on start up and cloggging the motor (really bad).

A part that deals with this is the Engine Temp Sensor. You may want to look into checking that sensor, since it deals with start up fuel delivery greatly (as many other parts do as well).
However, I cannot GUARANTEE that it is that exact part.
Unlike some other presumptive idiots on here.

This is going to be a long and annoying diagnose by the way.

Good luck

[rancid240]

Its not throwing codes right now.

However I am trying to test for a faulty injector, I pulled the fuel rail hoping that I could pressurize the system and see if an injector leaks. However most of the injectors fell right out of the rail, I shoved them back in pressurized the system, but they just keep getting blown out by the fuel. Is there an easier way to do this?

[KOUKI KA-T]

Its not throwing codes right now.

However I am trying to test for a faulty injector, I pulled the fuel rail hoping that I could pressurize the system and see if an injector leaks. However most of the injectors fell right out of the rail, I shoved them back in pressurized the system, but they just keep getting blown out by the fuel. Is there an easier way to do this?

If it were a faulty injector you could have just un-plugged each injector clip one at a time at idle and checked to see if unplugging one of them had no effect....

[ss045]

KOUKI KA-T is money. could use noid lights or a stethoscope too. hows o-rings?

[rancid240]

Alrighty. I figured though that just unplugging the injectors elec inputs wouldnt tell me the whole story- Maybe that an injector could always be stuck open, regardless of input...Also today I was trying to pull out the elec con to the injectors, but didnt figure out that you have to take off the metal clip first (I know that now obviously)

Well anyways the line that goes to the bottom of the FPR cracked and through gas everywhere...so Im putting it off till tomorrow (running the car and taking off the injector inputs). Theres gas stuck in puddles on top of the intake manifold, great....I am this close to giving up.

[m0rex]

Damn believe it or not same thing happen to me on my ka24de. I always have to rev the engine up to about 1900 rpm to get it to start otherwise it will start and turn off. Then one day i got home and tried to turn the car on and it just sounded like shit and shaked a lot and i had to keep it reved up to 3000+. I couldnt drive it because i had to stay above 3500 rpms. I didnt know what was wrong but it wasent anything related to the fuel system or engine. It was something in the electrical/ignition system. I never figured out what it was but my dad fixed it and never told me how he fixed it hes in cali right now but it didnt take him long to fix it.

[rancid240]

Ok, pulled each injectors plug and all of them debilitated the idle, so I assume they are all working.

I checked my ECT and according to FSM specs its not working correctly (2k ohm to spec, mine is showing 1k ohm) So imma replace that and see.

[rancid240]

Replaced the ECT, exhaust smells alot better and I took it for a drive with no complaints, except idle is a little higher. I think this and the smell may be do to the fact it was probably flooded with gas.

[420sx]

Every single one of these posts are useless.



eat shit and die. u were wrong. :rant: :rl:

[ss045]

^don't worry about him. hes a stupid sand nigger that just kicked his own ass. 'BODE by reading comprehension.

RACK 'em

[o240isxf0304]

this happened to my s13 before. and what hamsterball said was it. i didnt do it my self. it got frustrating so i just took it to a mechanic. took him all day to figure it out but once he figured it out he just cleaned up the engine temp sensor. but im not sure if its the same for your own car. now im worried because sometimes my s14 shows the same symptons.

[rancid240]

Symptoms are back...great.

Car starts and runs but nothing like before, still rich, not as bad though. Idles at just a tad over 500rpm.

Im going to check MAF, o2 voltages tonight or tomorrow. Anyone know a good write up for cleaning the IACV?? I found one but its for the KA DE.

Also, when I turn the injector harnesses, the idle fluctuates...the car will almost die, when I let go in a few seconds the idle will come back up. Could this be a bad ground?
THnaks