XylathaneGTR
03-25-2002, 05:11 PM
Aight, Its a lengthy topic...SO just read thru.
HYBRID HOW TO:
Hybrid S13 NISSAN SILVIA
What and Why?
With this hybrid, we created a lightweight, rear drive turbo sprts car with giant potential for little over 3,000 USD. Yeah, it needs paint, and kinda smells like ass, but the performance to dollar is amazing, and unbeatable.
The 1989-1994 240 SX was a very confused car, it had an increddibly balanced chassis that shared its multi link rear suspension with the 300ZX and Skyline, yet it was tuned for ride comfort over handling. It came with a transmission and differential that could withstand 400hp, but it only made 140. In short, it wanted desperatly to be a sports car...but sadly, Wasn't.
In Japan, as usual, things were better. The same car was available as the 180SX, which looked like our Fastback 240, or the silvia, Which was identical to our 240 coupe from the A-Pillar back, but used fxed headlamps. Both cars were available with a variety of engines, but the one we car about is, of course, the SR20DET, which stands for SR Block, 2.0 L displacement, DOHC, Electronic Ignation stuff, and Turbo.
Producing anywhere from 202 to 247 hp in stock form, the SR20 is capable of that sexy 400 RWHP in little work.
The s13 Silvia and 180SX were so popular during their inital production run that when their heavier, more luxurious successor, the S14 Silvia, was introduced in 1995, the S13 and 180SX remained in production. After more then 8 years of production, the S13's are abundant in Japanese junkyards, making for a constant supply of imported use engines and Front Clips.
Even tho the rear drive sr20 was never sold in the US, this swap is popular enough that many of the most important parts are available here.
Picking the Chassis
The s13 240SX came as a fastback, coupe, and convertable. The convertable is heavy, flexable, and was only available with an Auto. IF ur building a sports car....Dont start there.
Of the remaning body styles, the coupe is slightly lighter (around 50lbs...18kg's or so, depending on selected options)
and stiffer, thanx to the added structre behind the rear seats. The 240SX was available with ABS, A vicious LSD (limited slip Differential) and super HICAS 4 wheel steering. ABS from this time is rather primative, so tend to avoid it. The HICAS System is probably another to avoid. The RW steering is sometimes in phase, and sometimes not in phase with the fron wheels, and many people find that using it is unpredictable and unsetteling. There are several kits to eliminate it on cars that have it tho.
We only experienced the system on Skylines, which works very well, so we cant comment on the effectivness in the s13. An LSD is abvolutely critical for what is about to be your very powerful car, but only cars with the HICAS had LSD. If u cant locate a car with one, u can find one in a junkyard from a 240SX (all canadian versions had them <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'> ) or a 300zx, you could also get an aftermarket LSD.
If u get a 240 LSD, be sure to get the driveshaft as well, as it is about an inch shorter then a car without one.
1989 and 1990 Models had SOHC, 12 valve, KA24E, while 91 and later used the TwinCam KA24DE, Since your removing the engine, this dont matter much, but the swap can be easier starting with a DOHC car. The power steering lines from the earlier engine dont line up with the sr20's power steering pimp, and the tach signal from the sr20 wont drive the single cam tach.
We found a relatively straight 89 240 coupe with 270,000 miles and a hole in the engine block for $800 USD. IT has NO ABS, NO HICAS, and Sadly, no LSD. It also has no sunroof, which is critical for tall drivers (like Meeeeee <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'> )
Still weighed down with AC, Power Windows, and a fender full of bondo, it tipped the scales at 2,710LBS before the conversion
Picking Your Engine
You'lkl need an engine and trasn for the swap. Ideally, u should also have the Wiring harness, ECU, and countless lil brackets and doodads, all that crap. If your putting off the inevitable FMIC, you'll also want the stock sidemounted IC and piping. Easiest way to get waht you need is to buy a Front Clip, which includes the whole car from the Apillar forward. We bought a 180SX clip with 66,000 KM on it for $1,500 from Venus Auto Parts in Sacramento. Venus sells the clips withouth bodywork. We also bought the Silvia Fenders, hood, bumber, and headlights for $500.
If you buy the engine seperatly, check the lower oil pan for dents, the Sr20's oil pickup is mounted very close to the oil pan, and a dented pan can pinch off oil flow, usually resulting in immediate rod bearing failure...which is bad.
The pan only has to be very slightly dewnted for this to happen, so if u have any doubts, remove the lower pan (IE Stamped steel part, not the aluminum part.) and check for score marks from the pickup. You can either hammer the pan back out, or replace it (gotta import one from Japan) or upgrade to a GReddy or ARC High volume pan. with a capacity of only 3.5 quarts, the high folume pan is a good idea.
There were several different versions of the SR20det, which will be detailed at the end of the post.
If you plan to upgrade the turbo, theres little advantage to the more powerful new versions. A turbo UG on the earliest s13 will see it soon pumping out more then the s15 engine in no time. If you simply plan to max out the stock turbo, the later engines have more potential.
Engine Removal and Prep Work
If your car has AC, you'll want to have the system evacuated before removing the engine. If you plan on keeping the AC, you must switch to the sr20 pump and venting the AC to the atmosphere is Illegal. In a pinch, the twin cam Ka24de pump will bolt to the sr20 bracket, but only 2 or 3 bolts do line up.
Next, remove the radiator, Disconnect the power steering lines from the pump, remove the entire engine wiring harness from the car, disconnect the fuel lines, and unbolt the driveshaft. Slimy fluids come out when u do most of these things, so be prepped. Also remove the hood.
Now, yhank the engine and put it on Ebay, and sell its ass off.If you bought an entire front clip, you have the pleasure of uplling the sr20 as well...
If you started with a 12 valve KA24e, the stock power steering pump will be on the passanger side, since the sr20 power steering pump is on the driver side, none of the lines reach. If you want to retain power steering, you need to search the yards for all the lines from a 91-94 DOHC 240. Your other option is to remove the stock lines, crank the steering back and forth a few times to pump out all the fluids. Then cap off the steering fittings. Presto! Manual Steering.
Now, it is time to clean the engine compartment, and paint it if u want to. Check the master cylinders for peeeling paint and repair it while you can.
There are a few things you;ll want to take care of on the sr20 before Instal as well. 2 of the studs on the botom of our turbo outlet were missing, we replaced them with new studs from a Nissan VG30DE (N/A 300ZX) Our engine also had an AIV Valve, which is an emissions control device that lets air into the exhaust manifold at idle to keep the catalytic converter working. Later sr20s eliminated the need for this valve by simply leaning out the idle.
JWT can reprogram the ECU to use the later idle control strategy. Since a JWT Ecu is one of the first upgrades planned, we removed the AIV valve and capped the fitting in the turbo outlit with Nissan Part number 14052-21Roo
The aiv valve has no effect on performance. We also removed the heatshield from the bottom of the turbo. This shield can contact the steering chaft under cornering loads, possibly locking the steering.
While ou have the engine on the ground, this is a good time to replace the clutch. This engine only had 60k kilometers on it, so the stock clutch could be fine, but it doesnt take much imagination how it ended up in the junk yard so early...The clutch was found as a severely abused three puck racing clutch. For a replacement, we used a 9lb chrome moly TODA racing flywheel. Even tho it only fits RWD sr20 AKH Trading had the flywheel in stock in the US. The silvia clutch happens to be interchangeable with any fwd maxima clutch, so we used a JWT Street clutch for maxima. The JWT clutch uses and organic disk for smooth engagement and a stiffer pressure oplate for increased torque capacity. Despite the stiff plate, the clutch is still light enouf to be easily depressed by hand when we were bleeding the hydraulic system.
Right hand and left had drive cas have their heater core inlets in different locations, so some of the heater hoses needed to be rearranged. Before installing the enigne, the hoses on the back of the head need to be rearranged to point towards the passanger side.
Aight, i have to go now, but the next sections, Mounting, Wiring, Body will be posted tonite.
I hope this helps you guys. here's the chart.
1991-1993 s13 Silvia and 180SX. 202 hp at 6k rpm and 203lb at 4000. Stock turbo is a garret T24, 0.64A/R exhaust. 0.80 AR Compressor. Featuers are a high port head, 370cc/min injectors. ID is a RED VALVE COVER.
1994-1998 s13 180SX. 202 hp at 6k rpm, 203 lb at 4krpm Garret t25 Turbo with 0.64 A/R exhaust, 0.80A/R Compressor. High port head, and 370cc/min injectors are features. ID = black valve cover, flat on top.
1994-1998 s14 SIlvia.
217 HP at 6000rpm. and 203 ftlb at 4800 rpm. Stock turbo is a Gerret t28 ball bearing, 0.64 A/R Exhaust. 0.80 A/R T048 Compresser. Features are Low Port Head, VTC Variable Intake, Cam Timing, and 370cc/min injectors. ID is a black cyl head with a hump that peaks at Number 3.
1999-2001 s15 Silvia.
Manual Trans only
247 HP at 6400rpm
202 lbft at 4800rpm
Stock turbo is a Gerret t28 ball bearing, 0.64 A/R Exhaust. 0.80 A/R T048 Compresser
Features include Low Port Head, VTC intake, Cam Timing, 444cc/Min Injectors, better materials in turbo and improved Wastegate flow design.
ID is the same as the 1994 - 1998 s14, Black head cover with a hump at number 3.
i HOPE that helped you guys, and like i said, the next few parts will be posted tonite, when i ahve time...
Btw, this is mainly from May 2002 SCC, but i didn't plagerize cause im not a bastard and i don't want to get sued <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>
sry for long post.
HYBRID HOW TO:
Hybrid S13 NISSAN SILVIA
What and Why?
With this hybrid, we created a lightweight, rear drive turbo sprts car with giant potential for little over 3,000 USD. Yeah, it needs paint, and kinda smells like ass, but the performance to dollar is amazing, and unbeatable.
The 1989-1994 240 SX was a very confused car, it had an increddibly balanced chassis that shared its multi link rear suspension with the 300ZX and Skyline, yet it was tuned for ride comfort over handling. It came with a transmission and differential that could withstand 400hp, but it only made 140. In short, it wanted desperatly to be a sports car...but sadly, Wasn't.
In Japan, as usual, things were better. The same car was available as the 180SX, which looked like our Fastback 240, or the silvia, Which was identical to our 240 coupe from the A-Pillar back, but used fxed headlamps. Both cars were available with a variety of engines, but the one we car about is, of course, the SR20DET, which stands for SR Block, 2.0 L displacement, DOHC, Electronic Ignation stuff, and Turbo.
Producing anywhere from 202 to 247 hp in stock form, the SR20 is capable of that sexy 400 RWHP in little work.
The s13 Silvia and 180SX were so popular during their inital production run that when their heavier, more luxurious successor, the S14 Silvia, was introduced in 1995, the S13 and 180SX remained in production. After more then 8 years of production, the S13's are abundant in Japanese junkyards, making for a constant supply of imported use engines and Front Clips.
Even tho the rear drive sr20 was never sold in the US, this swap is popular enough that many of the most important parts are available here.
Picking the Chassis
The s13 240SX came as a fastback, coupe, and convertable. The convertable is heavy, flexable, and was only available with an Auto. IF ur building a sports car....Dont start there.
Of the remaning body styles, the coupe is slightly lighter (around 50lbs...18kg's or so, depending on selected options)
and stiffer, thanx to the added structre behind the rear seats. The 240SX was available with ABS, A vicious LSD (limited slip Differential) and super HICAS 4 wheel steering. ABS from this time is rather primative, so tend to avoid it. The HICAS System is probably another to avoid. The RW steering is sometimes in phase, and sometimes not in phase with the fron wheels, and many people find that using it is unpredictable and unsetteling. There are several kits to eliminate it on cars that have it tho.
We only experienced the system on Skylines, which works very well, so we cant comment on the effectivness in the s13. An LSD is abvolutely critical for what is about to be your very powerful car, but only cars with the HICAS had LSD. If u cant locate a car with one, u can find one in a junkyard from a 240SX (all canadian versions had them <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'> ) or a 300zx, you could also get an aftermarket LSD.
If u get a 240 LSD, be sure to get the driveshaft as well, as it is about an inch shorter then a car without one.
1989 and 1990 Models had SOHC, 12 valve, KA24E, while 91 and later used the TwinCam KA24DE, Since your removing the engine, this dont matter much, but the swap can be easier starting with a DOHC car. The power steering lines from the earlier engine dont line up with the sr20's power steering pimp, and the tach signal from the sr20 wont drive the single cam tach.
We found a relatively straight 89 240 coupe with 270,000 miles and a hole in the engine block for $800 USD. IT has NO ABS, NO HICAS, and Sadly, no LSD. It also has no sunroof, which is critical for tall drivers (like Meeeeee <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'> )
Still weighed down with AC, Power Windows, and a fender full of bondo, it tipped the scales at 2,710LBS before the conversion
Picking Your Engine
You'lkl need an engine and trasn for the swap. Ideally, u should also have the Wiring harness, ECU, and countless lil brackets and doodads, all that crap. If your putting off the inevitable FMIC, you'll also want the stock sidemounted IC and piping. Easiest way to get waht you need is to buy a Front Clip, which includes the whole car from the Apillar forward. We bought a 180SX clip with 66,000 KM on it for $1,500 from Venus Auto Parts in Sacramento. Venus sells the clips withouth bodywork. We also bought the Silvia Fenders, hood, bumber, and headlights for $500.
If you buy the engine seperatly, check the lower oil pan for dents, the Sr20's oil pickup is mounted very close to the oil pan, and a dented pan can pinch off oil flow, usually resulting in immediate rod bearing failure...which is bad.
The pan only has to be very slightly dewnted for this to happen, so if u have any doubts, remove the lower pan (IE Stamped steel part, not the aluminum part.) and check for score marks from the pickup. You can either hammer the pan back out, or replace it (gotta import one from Japan) or upgrade to a GReddy or ARC High volume pan. with a capacity of only 3.5 quarts, the high folume pan is a good idea.
There were several different versions of the SR20det, which will be detailed at the end of the post.
If you plan to upgrade the turbo, theres little advantage to the more powerful new versions. A turbo UG on the earliest s13 will see it soon pumping out more then the s15 engine in no time. If you simply plan to max out the stock turbo, the later engines have more potential.
Engine Removal and Prep Work
If your car has AC, you'll want to have the system evacuated before removing the engine. If you plan on keeping the AC, you must switch to the sr20 pump and venting the AC to the atmosphere is Illegal. In a pinch, the twin cam Ka24de pump will bolt to the sr20 bracket, but only 2 or 3 bolts do line up.
Next, remove the radiator, Disconnect the power steering lines from the pump, remove the entire engine wiring harness from the car, disconnect the fuel lines, and unbolt the driveshaft. Slimy fluids come out when u do most of these things, so be prepped. Also remove the hood.
Now, yhank the engine and put it on Ebay, and sell its ass off.If you bought an entire front clip, you have the pleasure of uplling the sr20 as well...
If you started with a 12 valve KA24e, the stock power steering pump will be on the passanger side, since the sr20 power steering pump is on the driver side, none of the lines reach. If you want to retain power steering, you need to search the yards for all the lines from a 91-94 DOHC 240. Your other option is to remove the stock lines, crank the steering back and forth a few times to pump out all the fluids. Then cap off the steering fittings. Presto! Manual Steering.
Now, it is time to clean the engine compartment, and paint it if u want to. Check the master cylinders for peeeling paint and repair it while you can.
There are a few things you;ll want to take care of on the sr20 before Instal as well. 2 of the studs on the botom of our turbo outlet were missing, we replaced them with new studs from a Nissan VG30DE (N/A 300ZX) Our engine also had an AIV Valve, which is an emissions control device that lets air into the exhaust manifold at idle to keep the catalytic converter working. Later sr20s eliminated the need for this valve by simply leaning out the idle.
JWT can reprogram the ECU to use the later idle control strategy. Since a JWT Ecu is one of the first upgrades planned, we removed the AIV valve and capped the fitting in the turbo outlit with Nissan Part number 14052-21Roo
The aiv valve has no effect on performance. We also removed the heatshield from the bottom of the turbo. This shield can contact the steering chaft under cornering loads, possibly locking the steering.
While ou have the engine on the ground, this is a good time to replace the clutch. This engine only had 60k kilometers on it, so the stock clutch could be fine, but it doesnt take much imagination how it ended up in the junk yard so early...The clutch was found as a severely abused three puck racing clutch. For a replacement, we used a 9lb chrome moly TODA racing flywheel. Even tho it only fits RWD sr20 AKH Trading had the flywheel in stock in the US. The silvia clutch happens to be interchangeable with any fwd maxima clutch, so we used a JWT Street clutch for maxima. The JWT clutch uses and organic disk for smooth engagement and a stiffer pressure oplate for increased torque capacity. Despite the stiff plate, the clutch is still light enouf to be easily depressed by hand when we were bleeding the hydraulic system.
Right hand and left had drive cas have their heater core inlets in different locations, so some of the heater hoses needed to be rearranged. Before installing the enigne, the hoses on the back of the head need to be rearranged to point towards the passanger side.
Aight, i have to go now, but the next sections, Mounting, Wiring, Body will be posted tonite.
I hope this helps you guys. here's the chart.
1991-1993 s13 Silvia and 180SX. 202 hp at 6k rpm and 203lb at 4000. Stock turbo is a garret T24, 0.64A/R exhaust. 0.80 AR Compressor. Featuers are a high port head, 370cc/min injectors. ID is a RED VALVE COVER.
1994-1998 s13 180SX. 202 hp at 6k rpm, 203 lb at 4krpm Garret t25 Turbo with 0.64 A/R exhaust, 0.80A/R Compressor. High port head, and 370cc/min injectors are features. ID = black valve cover, flat on top.
1994-1998 s14 SIlvia.
217 HP at 6000rpm. and 203 ftlb at 4800 rpm. Stock turbo is a Gerret t28 ball bearing, 0.64 A/R Exhaust. 0.80 A/R T048 Compresser. Features are Low Port Head, VTC Variable Intake, Cam Timing, and 370cc/min injectors. ID is a black cyl head with a hump that peaks at Number 3.
1999-2001 s15 Silvia.
Manual Trans only
247 HP at 6400rpm
202 lbft at 4800rpm
Stock turbo is a Gerret t28 ball bearing, 0.64 A/R Exhaust. 0.80 A/R T048 Compresser
Features include Low Port Head, VTC intake, Cam Timing, 444cc/Min Injectors, better materials in turbo and improved Wastegate flow design.
ID is the same as the 1994 - 1998 s14, Black head cover with a hump at number 3.
i HOPE that helped you guys, and like i said, the next few parts will be posted tonite, when i ahve time...
Btw, this is mainly from May 2002 SCC, but i didn't plagerize cause im not a bastard and i don't want to get sued <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>
sry for long post.