STOP!!!

[black0ut]

I am going to be installing pads and rotors either tonight or tomorrow. Just wanted to see if anyone had any tips to make things easier, but more than anything, I was wondering what the correct procedure for breaking them in is. Thanks guys!!

Nathan

[black0ut]

Please??? &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>

[black0ut]

Sorry about three posts in a row, I just remembered something else I was wondering about. The fronts are supposed to be pretty straightforward, but I've heard the backs can be troublesome. Anyone know why? Thanks!!

Nathan

[ghosts14]

The front brakes are very easy, remember to take the cap of the master cylinder. &nbsp;Just take off the two bolts holding the caliper on to the torque member. &nbsp;Take the pads out and then push the piston in with a C Clamp. &nbsp;The get the torque member off you will need to take out the two bolts, they are 17mm. &nbsp;I remember that, because when i did mine the damn this was so rusted I just broke it off. &nbsp;Needless to say that was a bitch. &nbsp;The get the rotor off you will need the correct size bolts to screw into the holes in the rotor. &nbsp;Remember to screw them in evenly. &nbsp;

The rear are just about the same process, except you will need some needle nose pliers to turn the piston clockwise to seat it into the bore. &nbsp;It takes a lot of turns. &nbsp;Everything else is the same.

[ghosts14]

hope i got it all, just did mine about two months ago.

[black0ut]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (ghosts14 @ Mar. 22 2002,9:50)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">The get the rotor off you will need the correct size bolts to screw into the holes in the rotor. Remember to screw them in evenly.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
ghosts14 -

Thanks for the advice. What is this about bolts for the rotor, though? We just did my friend's 300ZX rotors and they are "floating" as in they just slide off. Is this not true of the 240 rotors? Thanks!!

Nathan

[HotRodGuy]

I'm not sure if the 240's are "floating" or not cause I've not done mine but if they're not then you will have to screw two bolts (not sure what size but probably 8 or 10mm 1.25 or 1.50 threads) into the front face of the rotor. The hole's are located between the studs. Use lots of WD-40 or sumpthin 'cause they'll probably be rusted on. It won't hurt to take a hammer and "tap" on the face plate of the rotor while you try to screw the bolts in. And make sure that you do it evenly or else it will git in a bind. Hope this helps!

Thanks fer yer help with my scanner problem! I got Pics posted on My Webpage (http://www.all_bout_chris.homestead.com). Check um out if ya want! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'> <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>

Chris

[XylathaneGTR]

STOP in the naaaaaame of love!

anyways...New brakes huh? always a good idea...
what knid u getting?

[black0ut]

Thanks for the advice HotRod, and nice pics - I was looking through them earlier.

GTR - I got metal masters all the way around, KVR cross-drilled rotors in the front, stock Brembo replacements in the back.

Nathan

[HotRodGuy]

When ya git it done let me know how it stops. I wuz thinkin bout going with cross drilled rotors on all fours, mainly fer stopping power in the front and looks in the back. Supposedly the crossdrilled ones don't fade out.

[black0ut]

I'll definitely let you know. I should have plenty of pics, too. We swapped to cross-drilled on my friend's 300zx and he loves them. Definitely less fade according to him.

Anyone have any answers on breaking them in? I've heard a couple of 60 - 20 brake sessions works, but just wanted to verify. Thanks!!

[ghosts14]

The brakes bolt onto a "torque member" that is then connected to the suspension. &nbsp;You will need to undo the two 17mm bolts to get the "torque member" off. &nbsp;Once this is off, then you will be able to remove the rotors.

[black0ut]

Everybody -

Thanks for all of the help guys!! I knocked out the fronts, no problem. A little trial and error, but not bad at all. The cross-drilled KVR's and Metal Masters are a great combo. They are still really setting in, but once broken in pretty well, they sure stop the car. Pedal is really firm, too.

As for the backs... ugh!!! I gave up pretty quickly. It was pretty late and it was dark outside (we only had a small light) and it looked so futile. All of the suspension was in the way in the back - there was no way I would have been able to torque the caliper back on at 100 ft./lbs.

I forgot to really document it all, but I remembered half way through and shot some quick pics. I will put them up soon with how I did everything. Thanks again!! (Any help on the backs?! )

Nathan

[Gold240se]

I was just about to say that the rear control arm gets in the way, it really sux. &nbsp;But anything is doable. &nbsp;Good luck!!!