Is my suspension shot???

[mrdirty]

Please someone help me out on this:
Brand new rotors, pads and shocks/struts still same problem:
When braking hard the steering wheel shakes from side to side, if i let it go (not a good idea) the car drives dead straight. There are no other symptoms like the car "pulsing" to suggest warped rotors. If my hands are not on the wheel i'd never know. I don't think it's the rotors but could be wrong....

Please someone help me out on this, i'm getting concerned...

[black0ut]

dirty-

If you have brand new suspension, you should look into getting the car aligned, which could be the problem. Also, you could be looking at a bent rim, which they should find while balancing/rotating the tires. So go get your tires balanced and your car aligned &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>

Nathan

[jyt747]

Like Blackout said, check your alignment

[sykikchimp]

Check your T/C rods too. &nbsp;Make sure your Bushings aren't OOZing... My car shook at speeds above about 50mph b/c of that.

[mrdirty]

Thanks guys, I'll check all that out. Yeah, it does happen at just about 50mph and not below. Did the whole car shake as a result of the t/c rods? Because it's just my wheel. Although, it's probably the whole car and i'm just feeling it thru my wheel..... does anyone know if i'll see a noticable improvement between stock and whiteline bushings?

http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/suspensiontc.html

[Natty]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (mrdirty @ Mar. 19 2002,7:12)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">does anyone know if i'll see a noticable improvement between stock and whiteline bushings?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I'd like to know too! &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/notify.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':notify:'>

[s15dude]

My steering wheel shook when I had warped brake rotors. I changed them and it was fine.

[sykikchimp]

I baught Pillowball T/C rods. &nbsp;WOW. &nbsp;amzing improvement in steering feel, and responceviness. &nbsp;Gave the steering wheel a very direct feel w/ a light touch.

[mrdirty]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ Mar. 20 2002,11:49)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I baught Pillowball T/C rods. WOW. amzing improvement in steering feel, and responceviness. Gave the steering wheel a very direct feel w/ a light touch.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Where did you get them?

[camppain]

your hubs can be warped your rims bent as someone said earlier your wheel bearing could be shot causing play. or they could have not resurfaced your hub when putting new rotors on and the buildup of rust can be enough to give a pulsation/shaking

[black0ut]

camppain -

What is this you speak of?! &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/hehe.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':hehe:'> &nbsp;I am about to replace rotors/pads. What is this "resurfacing of hubs" and does it need to be done on a job like this? Thanks!!

Nathan

[shark0769]

Was interested to see this post since I was just prepping to post something along the same lines. I have a 95 240SX, auto tranny, with just under 80k miles.

&nbsp;My problem also starts at around 50+, with the worst shaking coming at around 65-67mph. I recently bought new wheels and tires and had an alignment done at the same time - so I don't think that's my problem. The other symptom I'm experiencing is a slight pulsing feeling coming thru the car as I brake.

Do any of you think the symptoms are related?

If so, is the most suspect item going to be the rotors?

Other than that and the T/C rod bushings, is there something else I should have looked at?

&nbsp;And last, I'm currently visiting in the StLouis area - for the memebers from the StL area, can you recommend any shops to properly diagnose and repair/replace these parts? I'd like to get it fixed before I get back on the road and head home.

&nbsp;Thanks for all your help.

&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Frank

[black0ut]

Frank -

I am assuming you had the wheels balanced when you put them on. If so, I would suspect the rotors. When you say the "worst" shaking, how bad does that imply?

Nathan

[shark0769]

Kind of hard to describe, but let me try it this way...

From about 65-70 the steering wheel will vibrate anywhere from 1/4" to about 1/2"...maybe a touch more than that. From 50ish to 65, and from 70 to about 75, it's much less noticeable...something like 1/8" to 1/4".

Also, this shimmy was there before I changed the wheels/tires. After having the alignment done a few times over the last three years (old wheels/tires) I'd begun to suspect that I'd hit one too many pot holes and had slightly bent a rim, but that obviously isn't the case since the problem still exists. A little more info...the entire suspension is original equipment...nothing (as far as I know) has been added or changed since it left the dealer.

I'm taking it in tomorrow morning to have it checked out. At this point I'd like to have a "cheat sheet" of sorts in case they say they can't find anything wrong, I can come back with "Well, did you check the so-and-so?"

Any more info will be greatlly appreciated.

[mrdirty]

Small world!
I was going in tomorrow to have it checked by the gumbies at my local nissan; I guess i'll just wait to hear what you report before going...

[camppain]

if your steering wheel shakes from 50-70 at highway speeds its more than likely a wheel balnce problem

and for resurfacing the hubs you should sand them down when doing a brake job. most mechanics &nbsp;dont do it msome do......me- i do cause it just saves you from a comeback and weird problems that you wont know where to start.

also if your just resurfacing your exiosting rotors mark the relation of the rotor to the hub so that way when it goes back on it will hold on the same way. i dont know how to really explain it

if new rotrs just resurface your hub. sand them down as good as you can then apply some white lith or similar grease on your hub. this will make it easier to remove for your next brake job igf need be

[camppain]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (shark0769 @ Mar. 22 2002,04:48)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Kind of hard to describe, but let me try it this way...

From about 65-70 the steering wheel will vibrate anywhere from 1/4" to about 1/2"...maybe a touch more than that. From 50ish to 65, and from 70 to about 75, it's much less noticeable...something like 1/8" to 1/4".

Also, this shimmy was there before I changed the wheels/tires. After having the alignment done a few times over the last three years (old wheels/tires) I'd begun to suspect that I'd hit one too many pot holes and had slightly bent a rim, but that obviously isn't the case since the problem still exists. A little more info...the entire suspension is original equipment...nothing (as far as I know) has been added or changed since it left the dealer.

I'm taking it in tomorrow morning to have it checked out. At this point I'd like to have a "cheat sheet" of sorts in case they say they can't find anything wrong, I can come back with "Well, did you check the so-and-so?"

Any more info will be greatlly appreciated.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
have them use a dial indicator to see if theres runout or lateral play in the hubs. i would have them start there instead of having them shitgun everything and not fix anything. thus making you pay out your ass.

have them measure the rotors surface to ensure its not warped if its been put through a few miles.

beleive it or not rorts can warp on how they are stcked if they have them vertically like this "|" it will cause a heavy spot over time until they where put on your car. they should be stocked horizontally flat like this "_"

also vibration can be cause by your drive shaft or propeller &nbsp;shaft

hope that helps with questions at the dealer.

he he he they might hate you after all these questions. but its ok.

[mrdirty]

Ok Shark, we're waitin'. What did Nissan say?

[shark0769]

I'm not taking it to the dealer and I couldn't get it in today. &nbsp;The place I'm taking it to was booked solid for today, but it's going in bright and early tomorrow morning. &nbsp;I'll update again tomorrow...

[sykikchimp]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (mrdirty @ Mar. 21 2002,07:15)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (sykikchimp @ Mar. 20 2002,11:49)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I baught Pillowball T/C rods. WOW. amzing improvement in steering feel, and responceviness. Gave the steering wheel a very direct feel w/ a light touch.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Where did you get them?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
www.projectsilvia.com

They are the RSPS S13 Tension Rods. &nbsp;$170.

They do the job nicely. &nbsp;If I had to do it again, I might have bought the Monkey Magic ones. &nbsp;They look SUPER nice. &nbsp;And they look a little better built.

You can do a visual check of your T/C rods.

[camppain]

also it can be your wheel bearing have them check that. could be your tie rods ball joints. etc etc just thought of these.

[shark0769]

Just got the car back and I got away fairly cheap. As it turns out there was a combination of problems.

1. The bozos that balanced the wheels had the left front 1oz off and the right front 3/4oz off.

2. The camber of the front wheels was a little screwy. Although both were within specs, one was at one extreme, the other wheel was at the other exteme. I can't remember which was which and the paperwork is in the glovebox.

3. The caster for the front right was quite a bit off. One $33 part and some labor to correct.

&nbsp;Altogether it cost me $120. Not too bad considering how much it could have cost. The car now drives very smoothly - better than it has in quite some time.

&nbsp;Thanks Camppain, I appreciate all your help.

&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Frank

[gtfour43]

Did they correct your camber problem as well? If they didnt you will have eneven tire wear on both sides and it will pull towards the side with the excessive positive camber.If you could, show us the printout they had for your car after the alignment. Oh yeah and glad to hear that your wheel balancing was off....lol. Most of the times its a wheel weight problem when you experience vibrations in the steering wheel at high speeds.

[Anubis]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (mrdirty @ Mar. 19 2002,7:12)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Thanks guys, I'll check all that out. Yeah, it does happen at just about 50mph and not below. Did the whole car shake as a result of the t/c rods? Because it's just my wheel. Although, it's probably the whole car and i'm just feeling it thru my wheel..... does anyone know if i'll see a noticable improvement between stock and whiteline bushings?

http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/suspensiontc.html</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I had the exact same problem! at high speed the wheel would shake mildly. I just had a new suspension and alignment so I didn't know what it was. Until I talked to the guy at discount tire and he said its most likely a bent rim. And it was true...my front right wheel was all bent up behind the tire. I got it replaced and now its great.