stereo install help

[Locustfist]

I can't get the "search" function to work, but I need a wiring diagram for the 1995 S14. I have the stupid Bose system, so instead of a harness I get to splice wires. I have a chart for an S13, but I don't know if it's the same. Any help woul be greatly appreciated!

[sykikchimp]

I didn't think there was a bose system for the 240?  It should be the same.

[Locustfist]

Yep, it has 2 little amps by the rear speakers, although the speakers are made by Clarion... In any case, it's a "premium" system, and that means I can't just get a harnes for a few bucks like I could in my old Civic. Anyone else have info?

[gmgs14]

I'm hopefully doing my install next week sometime, I'll know more then but as of now I think that my friend got me a harness from best buy (he works there) and everything else I needed for my install.  I'd go there and ask cos I'm sure that they've done work on 240s before and can tell you what you need.  I'm not the most knowledgeable about this stuff but my friends are and when I get everything taken apart I'll let you know what I did.

[geeaj]

Why do you need a diagram? For most head units you have

- 12v constant "hot wire"
- 12v switched ignition
- 12v switch accessory
- ground
- remote wire *when head unit is turned on it sends current to this wire, usually used to remotely turn on amps, electronic x-overs, eq's..etc.

Then you have your rca jacks with are self explantory. Then you have the speaker outputs. I wouldn't use the shitty factory speaker wiring; dental floss is thicker. Run new wiring from speakers to head units. If your going to install an amp, it maybe easier to run wiring. Whenever you splice a wire, you create additional opportunity for noise, resistance, etc. All bad things when it comes to sound quality.

[mrdirty]

The best way to map your harness is as follows:

-Hook multi-meter up for voltage and secure ground to chassis make sure it's a good ground.
-Don't turn ignition on yet...use the + lead on the multi and check each wire; the one that shows +12 will be your constant powe (probably yellow)
-Now turn the car on, check each wire again and the new +14 will be your "ignition on" or "accessory" power (usually red)
-The factory ground is usually garbage so ground to a nice spot on the frame (sand to metal first)
-Once u have power to the head unit, switch to radio and check for the new +14, this is your antenna power
-If you're using factory speakers and not an amp then the speakers come in pairs (like green and green with a stripe) so look for pairs. Take a AA battery and connect one side of a pair to one side and the other to the other; you'll hear a "thump", that's the connection for that speaker (find it!<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> If the cone is coming out into the car then the polarity is correct, if not you've got it backwards.
-Now hopefully you've located all of the wires you need, write this down somewhere and keep it in the glove box.
-Make all your connections short (so the head unit will still fit)and use either solder (tough in the car) or pig-tail splices.
-Use Shrink Tubing on ALL splices, try and get the 3:1 stuff and use a lighter or ideally a heat gun (your sisters hair dryer won't work.)

Enjoy!

[gfisch]

I had the "premium" stereo in my se. As for hooking us the head unit there is no diference as far as i could tell, you can buy a harness from crtuchfield and put it on. Howevere, you DO need to bypass the 2 factory clarion amps unless you want the stereo to sound like shit and make your investment in a quality head unit worthless since it will just be reamplified through the litttle amps in the back.
I posted a while ago about which wire to jumper together, but i dont remeber offhand which they were. What you have to do is take each pair of input wires to the amp in the harness and cut them and connect them to the matching output wires (so thatd be 8 connections). I did that and it worked fine, but i completely gutted all the factory stereo wiring when i got an amp and redid it on my own which is what id reccomend since its not too hard or time consuming to do.

Greg

[weitau]

Here are the wire color codes and harness connector positions. &nbsp;Hope it helps!

Ah, I am running a 22W RMS Pioneer through the factory speaker wiring, and even if I crank it up, it sounds fine. &nbsp;But I soldered all my connections except for the speaker wire tabs.

'89 and up radio harness and wiring (http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf)

[Locustfist]

Sorry everyone, I should have clarified.

I'm putting in new speakers all around, along with 3 amps, a deck, subs, changer, and lots of dynamat.

I'm still not sure if the harness adaptor will work. Crutchfield says no, but I've heard yes. I'll just snag one in the morning before I start, and if it doesn't work, return it.

I am replacing all my speakers, and they will all run off amps, so I get to run new wiring. That's actually probably easier than dealing with the stupid factory amps anyway.

Thanks for all the posts, especially that last one with the link to the diagam. That may come in most handy if the harness won't work.

I'll try to get out my digicam and snap some shots for everyone if I have the time.

[mrdirty]

You've got it made then,
Just locate the power wires and forget about the speakers. It took me 5 hrs to run all new 12gauge speaker wire to the trunk, rig up the harness, and run 4gauge power. Just don't break any panels while removing them.

BTW: Good luck running power thru the fire-wall, it's a real pain to find a flat spot to mount a gromet to!

[Locustfist]

That sucks- I just finished for the day. I get no power for some reason. I double checked all my crimps and wire color (using the link posted as reference) and it seems OK.

My car has completely different wire colors than the diagram, but it says it might, so I went by the placement on the harness... I neve went and bought on, so maybe I'll try that.

Also, you're right, there's no hole thru the firewall that I can find, so I do have to drill one... that sucks!

Round 2 coming up, my next day off. But for now I have no music at all...

[AJ]

it sounds like you are making this a whole helluvu lot harder than it should be...

step 1.. &nbsp;rip out all existing amps and wires (or leave them.. they won't matter)

step 2.. install deck,, run rca's out to all your amps

step 3.. run speaker wire from amps to all your speakers...

step 4.. put everything back together...


if you are redoing EVERything.. it is really easy... the way i did mine.. i used the stock wiring for the front speakers and spliced into those in the rear.. If you need the wiring diagrams.. i have them somewhere.. uhh,, let me know, i have a site bookmarked that tells u what wire is what on those amps..


umm,, and a harness adapter will work if u havn't allready got one.. bestbuy has them... &nbsp;u will also need an antenna adapter... uhh... what kind of speakers are you putting up front?.. i need to do that.. &nbsp;anyhow, i know this post probably seems simple and childish.. but it is way to late..

let me know if you have any specific questions, i might be able to help u out.

[AJ]

oh,, btw.. easy place to get ur power wire through... &nbsp;(how big r u running?.,, there is a airconditioning/heater duct (i think thats what it is) next to the ecu under the passenger airbag in the passenger footwell thing... just drill into that <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> easier than firewall.. slip wire through.. and wallaa... &nbsp;(yes.. sorta ghetto.. but hell.. sure was easy)

[Locustfist]

I am running 4 guage to the trunk, then split to 8 guage from a distribution block.

I was planning on doing it all in one shot, but ran out of time. It's too late for a harness adaptor now... I still could use those diagrams or whatever, since the wiring I did is obviously not right. I have a drain on my battery now, so something is hooked up to the wrong wire.

I'm putting a set of Coustic 6.5 components up front. They don't quite fit, so I'll have to get some MDF and make adaptor plates for them. I was going to put the tweeters in the stock location, but never got that far. I finished dynamating my doors, it makes a big difference.

I'm thinking of giving up and just having my favorite shop do it for me. It would only be $140 or so, and for the time I spend on it, I could go to work and make more than that. I'd like the satisfaction of doing it myself, but I don't think I have the time or patience any more.

[AJ]

i need to get some new front components.. any recomendations for under 200 or 150?... to run with about 25 watts of kicker power.. so,, probably a lil more than that in reality..

[Locustfist]

Which Kicker amp do you have? In most cases, that should be 35-40 watts, which in my opinion is not enough to power some components. I have run 50, 85, and 100 watts per channel on components, and they suck it up. I think front stage is the most important- Do you have a 4 channel amp? If so, bridge it to 50X2 on the front, and power the rear off you deck. Rear stage is just not that important. That 50X2 would really be about 75X2, and would do quite well with any good set of comps.

As far as brands, I have always loved Coustic for the value and SQ, however they are hard to find. If you want to spend over $100, check these out
http://www.sounddomain.com/shop....Systems (http://www.sounddomain.com/shop/list/b/Crystal/t/Component%20Speaker%20Systems)
can't be beat for that price. The 7 inch as they call it is really the "euro" fit 6.75 opening, which is what our cars should take (the opening was just a tiny bit bigger than my 6.5). This is the BEST high end system under $300, and would work well if you can bridge that amp.

Otherways, check Ebay for some Infinity reference or kappas, some &nbsp;Polks, some Pioneers, anything semi lower end (but nothing you haven't heard of like Rockwood or Boss) if you want to power it with just that 25X2. I really recommend bridging that or getting a new amp, it's so important.



Hope this helps, sorry I ramble sometimes...

[rampid360]

Here:
I followed this exactly and had no problems bypassing the stock amps.

1 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Blue &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;left front speaker neg. input

2 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Black &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;right front speaker pos. input

3 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Blue/yellow &nbsp; &nbsp; left front speaker neg. output

4 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Brown/white &nbsp; right front speaker neg. output

5 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Brown &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; right front speaker pos. output

6 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Pink &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;left front speaker pos. input

7 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;White &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;right front speaker neg. input

8 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Blue/white &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;left front speaker pos. output

9 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Blue &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;acc.

10 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Green/red &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; on/off

11 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Purple &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; left rear speaker neg. input

12 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Pink &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;right rear speaker neg. input

13 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Green &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; left rear speaker neg. output

14 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Pink &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;right rear speaker neg. output

15 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Blue &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;right rear speaker pos. output

16 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Green &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; left rear speaker pos. input

17 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Blue &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;right rear speaker pos. input

18 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Red &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; left rear speaker pos. output

19 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Blue &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;acc

20 &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Green/red &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; on/off



Splices:



1 to 3

2 to 5

4 to 7

6 to 8

11 to 13

12 to 14

15 to 17

16 to 18

Good Luck

[Grant]

yea after lots of trial and error I came up with the same results and bypass the factory amps the same way. It's been working fine for me

[AJ]

Thanks for your response locusfist, i'm liking the sound of those cystal components.. price sure is right. &nbsp;I might order them today. &nbsp;Also, i have a p640 pioneer deck.. do you think after bridging the front left-rear left &nbsp;front right- rear right,, it will sound okay?. .and also, do you think that the loudness will be allright?. &nbsp;How hard will it be to make the front and rear blend together when the fronts are amped and the rears are running off the deck? &nbsp;If i crank up the gain all the way on the amp, will i over power the loudness of the rears that are runnign off the deck?.... sorry <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'> lotsa questions.. answer what u can <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> thanks. &nbsp;the amp is an ix245 (or is it 254).. whichever is 25w at 4 channels.. so,, it's not the greatest amp, but i got it for a pretty good price <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'> so i went with it.. It runs my infiniti kappa 2 ways in back real well and they want 75watt rms... so,, who knows..

oh, last question.. what do you think about making small inclosers for hte rear speakers?.. i'm bottoming them out when i turn up the volume.. so i was thinkng about fiberglassing so baffles or something ghetto like that... let me know what yout think... thanks again!

[Locustfist]

I'm not sure what exactly you mean when you say bridging... If you are refering to bridging your amp, then of course, it will still sound great. If you mean bridging your P640, definately don't do that. Head unit's can't handle a bridged load like that.

I did some searching on your amp though, it is rated at [email protected] volts, [email protected] volts. Usually, when I've had a digital capacitor in my car, while running it's usually high 13s or low 14 volts, so you should be closer to the 85X2. And it may be underrated, kicker is sometimes. That would be great on any set of components.

As for rear fill, the deck should be fine for them. But again, I like mine quieter. Don't pump your gains up, set it to match your deck's voltage and go from there. Cranking your gains too high just makes distortion. I think that deck has 2 volt preouts, so somewhere around 1/3rd should do. Do you have a sub? Because you shouldn't be hearing the rear's bottom out at all. I wouldn't bother with an enclosure for them. If you don't have a sub, get one first thing! Even if you get a small amp and cheap sub, you can upgrade later. Like get an amp that does 150X1, on a decent 10. Then later if you upgrade, throw that amp on your rear fill, it probably does 50X2.




Any other questions, feel free! I haven't decided if I'm going to do my own work, or just give in. I really don't have time for it, but I'm also broke, so...... One thing's for sure, I need music NOW!

[AJ]

well, my only concern is that when i had these speakers going with the stock little amps, the speaker was so quiet... it hardly moved.. no midbass.. etc... so thats my concern.. my gains r up a lot now.. should i really have them at 1/3rd?.. whats ur SN on instant messenger <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'> we need to talk more before i make any more mistakes with my car audio!.. thanks again for ur help.

[Locustfist]

It's been awhile, but I got it all to work... well almost all. First off, The trunk in a 95 S14 has a higher up section in the back of it, right before the seats. This is where I was going to put my amps, but luckily I found out it is the gas tank! So I made a raised amp rack out of MDF so I would have room to drill.

Next I double (triple) checked my wiring. I don't know what was wrong, but it works now. The front component tweeters I have where too big to go into the stock location, so I had to coaxially mount them. The crossover was an easy fit, unlike some other cars I've had.

Did have to drill a hole in the firewall- not fun. I made it up under the passenger side, behind the glove box. Ran my wire, did the ground in the trunk. Got the power/ground distribution blocks in there. Threw in the first amp for the components, already had done the wire when I did the wiring earlier. The components sounded incredible! I had the stock rear speakers going, with the factory Clarion amp, and just faded mostly to the front. Sounded good that way. I then put in my crossover, finalized the changer location, and got the sub amp in. Threw in the subs, and it's gold. I like it now, I'm not sure if I want to mess with putting in the rear speakers. I have an amp and speakers already, but I like them quiet, and it really won't make that much of a difference for all the work it will be. I guess I'll have to drive around with it and see!




Anybody have any questions about an install? I can be more helpful now that I'm done.

[silvia lover]

I have a panasonic deck installed in my last 240. but somehow i totaled the car, so i got the deck out of it. and after a long searching for another 240. i had found one and bought it(lucky me). Anyways, i decide to put the deck on to replace the clarion cass. deck it's on the car. It didn't take long to put it on. but somehow, i can't turn on the deck and it don't seem like any power running into the deck, because the led should blink when the face is off. my question is how can i get the deck work again. I have the wire adapter on and the antenna adapter on too. And i have check the plug. everything seem good to me. do someone know what happens to my deck or i have to rewire the wire again. thanks

[silvia lover]

by the way, i am going to run two amps in my car, one 4 channel and one single for the sub. should i use the 4 gauage install kit to wire all 2 amps, or should i breake it into two 8 gauage, since my amp is a high current amp from audiobahn(A18001D), and it claimed to have 600 rms into 4ohm. by the way, i have a digital cap, should i run the 4 gauage to the cap, then to each amp, or break it up into two to each amp. it is my first time doing this, don't want to let the shop do it because they asking around 210 to put it in.
hope you may know this and willing to help me out.

[sykikchimp]

Locust - If you like the way it sounds without the rears, leave them out. &nbsp;Many times adding rear speakers can screw with the sound staging. &nbsp;Most people I have seen just throw some filler speakers back there and run them off the HU.

Silvia - Check to make sure you have a good ground for the deck. &nbsp;Dont use the factory ground. &nbsp;They almost ALWAYS suck, and are usually too long in most cars. &nbsp;

The best way I've seen the cap setup was to get a distribution block for the cap. &nbsp;then run the 4 gauge to it, and 1 8 gauge to each amp.

not sure who but someone said something about their mids bottoming out... &nbsp;This is very abnormal, and what you are probably getting is just distortion. &nbsp;The most common cause of distortion is too LITTLE power. &nbsp;But if they're rears, I suggest just putting some base blockers on there and forget it. &nbsp;They should be fine then.

[silvia lover]

thanks guys, get it work today. right now i'm looking for a custom box for my 12" sub. what kind of material should i use, fiberglass or wood, i don't want it to be so heavy, any advise? and how much will it cost me to make a custom box from any audio store?

[sykikchimp]

If you get someone to make you a box, that gets REAL expensive.

A box for only one 12 shouldn't be too heavy. &nbsp;And you can build a sealed box yourself pretty easy. &nbsp;Use 3/4in MDF. If its a real powerfull sub, say 500-600 watts RMS then you might want to use a 1" baffle (where sub is screwed onto box)

Make sure you brace the box as well. &nbsp;A good site that gives a pretty good overview is www.jlaudio.com. &nbsp;Go to their tutorials section. &nbsp;Also their are Tons of car audio sites out there. &nbsp;And if you want some ideas, check out the rides section over at www.sounddomain.com. &nbsp;There are quite a few 240's on there.

also another good site for Audio info is www.caraudioforum.com &nbsp;TONS OF INFO.

[silvia lover]

thanks alot, i will check those site out asap. and thanks for the advice.

[mbmbmb23]

Anyone know where the factory amps are for the S13 hatchbacks? &nbsp;(1993)



M

[sykikchimp]

there are only amps on the front speakers, and they are attached to the speaker mount as a back plate. &nbsp;If you take out the front speakers you will see what I'm talking about. &nbsp;Looks like an amp with no cover.

[HKrpS13]

actually there's amp for the rear too. (I think)
I'm asuming this metal box thing close to the rear left speaker is the amp. The y only have it on the left side.