62 ECU in fail safe mode

[Flybert]

I just finished my swap and I can't see anywhere where my wiring is messed up. I checked the timing and it's at 15 BTDC. The car is running SUPER rich with fuel shooting out the exhaust. This is why I think the ECU is in fail safe mode. I checked for codes and I get code 55. I was actually hoping it was gonna tell me why my car is running like [censored]. My idle is rough but it stays around 800 RPMs. The engine moves around a lot. Also, when I give it gas, it doesn't go above 4000 RPMS. When I pulled the MAFS out, it doesn't go over 2500 so I'm thinking that my MAFS wiring is fine. Anybody have any suggestions as what could be wrong? I haven't taken it out of the garage just yet because I'm not driving it until it's running right. I have a boost gauge and my oil pressure when idling and warm is about 2 BAR and the boost goes to around .5 BAR. And lastly, after I unplug the battery and replug it after a while, it will idle smoothely but then it kicks into ultra rich mode.

[Kid Zelda v2]

Hey Chris,

Since you already double/triple checked timing.

You should check the water temp sensor. cpu may thinik the engine is not warm yet, so its dumping fuel.

[ditosx]

Check for boost leaks.

[sr240mike]

I dont think if the ecu was in fail safe it would throw a code 55. You may have a leaky or stuck open injector though. The result of this is it might idle ok and under part throttle but under full acceleration it would bog like crazy. Pull the plugs and see if one of the plugs is fouled (black) and if the cylinder is full of fuel.

[Flybert]

Hey Chris,

Since you already double/triple checked timing.

You should check the water temp sensor. cpu may thinik the engine is not warm yet, so its dumping fuel.

Only problem I see with that is that it should run OK when the engine is cold and it doesn't.

[Flybert]

New Update

I checked the MAFS voltages.

.84V Key On
1.84V 850 RPM Idle
2.66V 2000 RPM
3.42V 3000 RPM
3.9V 3700 RPM
3.9V 4500 RPM

I'm not sure how accurate the last 2 were because my little bro who doesn't even know how to drive didn't seem to sure about at what RPM it was when I asked him.

So basically, I think this MAFS is not working correctly. After this, I cleaned the the little wires in there with alcohol. The Key ON and idling measurements did not change. I also double checked the key on voltage at the ECU and it was the same.

[kazuo]

Check ECT
Check Injectors
Check o2 sensor/wiring (I doubt this is it, but you never know)

Strange that its running in failsafe even tho it throws 55, which leads me to believe there is another issue.

Rough idle could be a vac leak...

I personally would rule out the MAFS.

[Flybert]

The fact that the voltages are off by a considerable amount makes me think that it is the MAFS. Tomorrow I'm exchanging the MAFS with another and I'm going to check the injectors if that fails.

[monkeyspeed]

did you set the timing yourself when you did the swap or just check it with a gun?...i would try seting the base timing (not just turning the cas) again the proper way...it's in the fsm...just because the pulley shows 15btdc doesnt mean it really is if the cas is off a tooth or two....also, if you are running that rich, you should check your oil for excess fuel and probably change it as soon as you fix the rich problem...

[Flybert]

I tried another MAFS today and it did not help. I checked all of my plugs and they have black crap all over them. I did set the timing myself with TPS unplugged but I'm going to try again tomorrow.

[Oki180]

your problem is your injectors are bleeding past the orings. check this by pulling off the individual injector clips and the one that doesn't change engine speed is the one or two that are leaking.

I was recently bothered with this one my self. you can also check by noting the oil level. if its abnormally high then whamo you got the same problem I had.

another real easy way to tell is to pull the plugs. the plug/s that are soaked in fuel are the ones that are leaking.

and if this turns out to be your problem, be sure to fully drain your engine and change both the filter and oil.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Injectors or a bad fpr....One of my friends had this issue. Turns out his FPR was stuck...he was pushing close to 55psi at idle when its supposed to be around 36 psi. Gap your spark plugs down to .25 and see if that helps too.

[Flybert]

I'm going to try and borrow my friends FPR gauge so I can check that crap tomorrow. I'm running a walboro high pressure fuel pump but I don't think that is causing the problem.

[F3600]

I got the same problem with my car !
Its a ca18det and its running ultra rich at idle, it bog down if i give some throttle. My RPM struggle to the redline and my exhaust spill fuel... it is undrivable. I didnt find anything: no boost leak , code 55... but i think my timing belt skipped a litlle bit because now i need to turn my cas all the way to righ or left (not sure) to get 15 btdc .... anyway good luck !

[Oki180]

Fuel pressure on a walbro should be about 45-50psi. with a gauge the tell tale sign will be a complete pressure loss when the car is turned off.

I had a gauge on mine too and it would drop to zero psi after a few minutes as it filled the cyliders with fuel.

This isn't something to play with since you will severely thin your oil and cause damage to your bearings and rings.