240 concerns

[bshotts]

I'm new to the zilvia board but I heard it's a good place to go for 240 info.........anyway, I had my Redtop installed in my '96 this summer and have some major concerns to this date:

1)Engine is running extremely rich (i.e. 11-15 mpg) and fumes are killer as well as black exhaust builds up fairly quickly in the exhaust and rear fascia

2)Engine stalls sometimes and idles rough after an extended period of driving, also backfires frequently

3)Speedometer recently stopped working as well as the odometer...where is the speed sensor located?

4)Recently installed Autometer boost gauge....have a good boost reading (9 psi peak, 7 psi hold stock boost), but no vacuum reading? Did I tap the wrong pressure line?

5)Recently noticed after running it to near redline, engine wants to run rough (i.e. sounds like a WRX boxer engine and noticed some white smoke come out of the exhaust, but no smoke when driven regularly)

6)Breather filter off of the valve cover sprays oil onto the exhaust manifold when driven hard Shoud I do away with the breather filter?

Mod list:
Redtop SR20DET
S15 T-28
NISMO motor/tranny mounts
Exedy Stage II clutch
MSL Aluminum Radiator
Electric fan
Custom intake
MSL hotpipe
Stock S13 SMIC
Larger camshafts
HKS spark plugs
Walbro 255
Blitz 3" SS DP
MSL 3" test pipe
APEX'I 3" N 1 single

I do have an APEX'I SAFC II waiting to be installed and tuned.....how much would this help?

Sorry so long, but I appreciate any advice!!

[mistaanime]

hmm fuel injectors?

[i-love-my-s14]

I have some friends with hondas and they have that little breather filter on the valve cover, and all that thing does is cause problems, if i were you i would do away with that first. also try to adjust your timing to solve the running rich problem, and the back fires are normal when you have 3inch exhaust all the way back.

[pablo180]

I'd check the MAF to see if everything is working correctly. Make sure the wiring that was done to it was not a hack job. (soldered, shrinkwrapped) I had similar stalling problems after the car was run for a more than an hour...i re-did my own wiring with clean hands the second time around and it did the trick. you might also want to replace the o2 sensor for a new one if you havent already done so. those two might help you solve the rough idle and running rich problems.

Good luck,

Pablo

[the head]

the rich run condition may also be due to boost leaks (metered air not making it into engine) the rough running could stem from your rich run conditions (fouled plugs) replace your plugs then search for the other problems.

Boost gauge is not tapped from the proper vac source what nipple is it hooked to and have you capped and ziptied any unused nipples around the TB

are you using the stock recirc valve?

is the FPR seeing vac and boost?

[chlatboy]

maybe you need to replace an O2 sensor? :faint:

[s14 blacktop]

Try this go and check every spark plug if bad replace if not make shure they are tigh on there, my s14 blacktop did the same thing, but mine ran rough from the beginning, it wound up that two of my spark plugs were not on tight enough, and the car would backfire often and have gas problems like you described. oh yeah on mine when you put a piece of paper in the back of the exhaust you could see the gas build up, just try it and you might be in luck.

[bshotts]

using the stock valve open atmospere seems to run ok don't really have many stalling issues lately...

as for the spark plugs....do i just check for burnt electrodes and what is a good plug to go with for the SR with mild mods?

yeah i will just tap into one of the vac lines on the intake mani and put a new vac hose from the cold pipe to the WG

thanks for all your help guys

[the head]

using the stock valve open atmospere seems to run ok don't really have many stalling issues lately...

but it is most definately the cause of your rich run condition and your rough idle recirc that thing that is the way it is meant to operate

as for the spark plugs....do i just check for burnt electrodes and what is a good plug to go with for the SR with mild mods?

Black tips and/or the smell of fuel on the plugs you should get plugs from a 300zx twin turbo they have the proper heat range for stock to mildly modded


yeah i will just tap into one of the vac lines on the intake mani and put a new vac hose from the cold pipe to the WG

wait you are tapped off of the IC piping and you get no vac reading?
if this is true you may have a defective boost gauge

[bshotts]

yeah i am tapped into the intercooler line from the cold pipe running back to the waste gast........anyway, you think recirc the bov will def help the rich run condition??

also, i know the boost gauge is good because:

1) it is new as of christmas day
2) i sucked on the nylon tube going into the gauge just to see if i could get a vac reading haha

[the head]

yes you have to remember that all air in the system is metered so the ecu sends fuel for the metered amount of air atmosphering a recirc valve allows it to vent air that the ecu has already sent fuel for causing rich run/rough idle situations due to an overabundence of fuel for the amount of air that actually reaches the motor

[bshotts]

ahhhh it's becoming a little more clear now......

i just have a hard time seeing how that much air can have such a negative effect on fuel delivery and gas consumption.....but thanks anyway

well where do i need to route the air back into?? the intake tube right??
after the maf or before?? after makes sense to me

[the head]

after the maf

who did your install? and will they be able to make repairs if the car breaks?

[bshotts]

Modern Speed Labs here in Indianapolis did the install for me.......know/heard of them?

[the head]

i am rather supprised a shop would leave the recirc atmosphered

[bshotts]

well i'm not so sure it's the stock valve b/c:

1)i don't recall what exactly they look like and
2)it looks like it's a stock valve of some sort i can upload a pic a little later usin the digi

[the head]

stock valve is attached to the side of the intercooler

[TokyoNights]

tap the boost gauge int the line between the fpr and throttle body.

[bshotts]

will do thanks