Whiteline sways, do the wheels have to be on the ground?

[alkemyst]

I am getting alot of oversteer with it on full stiff front and rear (on KTS 8/6 kg/mm dampners).

I installed with the wheels off the ground and have been reading they say to install with them on the ground...I don't see how it matters as you aren't really tightening the pivot points down seriously.....


Anyone have experience in this? If I can get away with just lowering the rear bar settings that would be easiest.

Å

[Var]

Anyone have experience in this? If I can get away with just lowering the rear bar settings that would be easiest.

Å


That's what the adjustments are there for. Although i have also heard the proper way is for the suspension to be loaded

[orion::S14]

My Whitelines also give a little too much oversteer for my tastes...

Try full stiff front, full soft rear.

Mine still has a little too much for my tastes, but...I may even go back to Whiteline front, stock rear...just to see. With Tein HEs (8k/6k), it does have a tendency to oversteer...too much.

- Brian

[ledzeppelin240]

http://www.zilvia.net/installs/installs.asp

Scroll down to the bottom...

[thx247]

8/6 spring, stock front, whitline rear full stiff. running equal tires and its neutral.

[Var]

i'm running 8/6 rates. Front shocks 10 from full stiff. Rear shocks 8 from full stiff. Whiteline Front at medium setting. Whiteline rear on full stiff. 20mm front spacer. Car handles like a champ. Very complaint, no understeer, slight oversteer mostly cause of my shitty rear tires. Otherwise very un-s13 like

[orion::S14]

8/6 spring, stock front, whitline rear full stiff. running equal tires and its neutral.

Weird...

How much camber do you run?

I run 17X9 all around, with 245/40-17s...and -2 or so up front, a litle less in the rear.

I'm going to try more rear camber soon.

- - - - -

Although, I do have an extra ~60lbs of turbo stuff under the hood, and then a gutted trunk, with only an Optima battery back there...could be a weight balance issue with my car. I plan on trying some balast to see if that helps.

- Brian

[alkemyst]

Thanks guys...the rear being lighter is probably a little of my problem...I can feel the rear coming up a lot more than the front on big dips. I am trying to plan a battery relocation to help a bit as soon as I can figure a truly safe way to run the cables back (I want to look at a miata and a M3 to see)...having that many amps running through my interior after a mechanic put a screw through just a 4g power cable running to the rear of my old saturn (welding the bit he was using to the screwhead :)) is a little scary.

I may knock my fronts dampeners down a notch to 6 out of 15 (the stiffest) on the kts, the rear at 4 is probably as good as it gets street driving. 5 starts the rear pogosticking across rough turns. I may be bouncing the front a little too much on the rough stuff too.

I am also going to try to back the rear sway down one notch too this weekend and see...I am running AVS ES100's in the 235/45R17 on 17x8's all four corners...not the best tire, but a great compliant street tire giving great performance for that compromise...(I had the ultra hi-perf 40's on a car and it made for a harsh day to day commute).

[Replicant_S14]

Although i have also heard the proper way is for the suspension to be loaded

Yup, I did mine that way too, but I honestly can't think of why it makes a difference for the front if you use the WL provided links. The rear is a different story.