Ka-T swap sputtering & isles too high

[Statichris]

I recently swapped a Ka24det into my hatch that’s been sitting for about 5 months that used to have an sr. I’m having this issue where the car misfires on cylinder 1 at idle, and idles at 2k. Changed out the plugs to ngk iridiums. Gapped @ .28 replaced the distributor and wires. When you go to drive it, it sputters really bad and breaks up anywhere from 1800 to 3000 rpm. It’s so weird because the sputtering fluctuates so much. We have disconnected the maf (z32) to see if it would die which it did. also have a back up maf that was tried. Got codes from the ecu which was o2 sensor & knock sensor. It has an s14 Bosch 3 wire o2 sensor brand new. And the knock sensor was badly cracked, so I stole one from my old ka that was slightly cracked but better. Even new fuel filter.

The set up has a isis bottom mount, gt3076, 550cc injectors, wiring specialties harness, z32 maf, Tomei fpr set @ 45 psi, 255 fuel pump, and has everything emission related deleted. Egr block off plate, literally no vacuum lines. Only vacuum lines are to the fpr, boost gauge, Wastegate and bov. Has coolant ports deleted on manifold & only has the main coolant hose on the intake. All hoses for pcv system have been replaced but I’m getting a catch can soon so I’ll block those off. It even has the swirl valve deleted with all the butterfly valves inside of the manifold and a block off plate on the back. Has an Rs Enthalpy ecu that came with the swap for this setup & confirmed with Martin @ Rs that it was tuned by them. I’m going haltech but I really want to figure this issue out before the standalone comes into play.

I made it detail so I can get the best feedback lmk if you know any solutions !!

[anthony_240]

I recently swapped a Ka24det into my hatch that’s been sitting for about 5 months that used to have an sr. I’m having this issue where the car misfires on cylinder 1 at idle, and idles at 2k. Changed out the plugs to ngk iridiums. Gapped @ .28 replaced the distributor and wires. When you go to drive it, it sputters really bad and breaks up anywhere from 1800 to 3000 rpm. It’s so weird because the sputtering fluctuates so much. We have disconnected the maf (z32) to see if it would die which it did. also have a back up maf that was tried. Got codes from the ecu which was o2 sensor & knock sensor. It has an s14 Bosch 3 wire o2 sensor brand new. And the knock sensor was badly cracked, so I stole one from my old ka that was slightly cracked but better. Even new fuel filter.



The set up has a isis bottom mount, gt3076, 550cc injectors, wiring specialties harness, z32 maf, Tomei fpr set @ 45 psi, 255 fuel pump, and has everything emission related deleted. Egr block off plate, literally no vacuum lines. Only vacuum lines are to the fpr, boost gauge, Wastegate and bov. Has coolant ports deleted on manifold & only has the main coolant hose on the intake. All hoses for pcv system have been replaced but I’m getting a catch can soon so I’ll block those off. It even has the swirl valve deleted with all the butterfly valves inside of the manifold and a block off plate on the back. Has an Rs Enthalpy ecu that came with the swap for this setup & confirmed with Martin @ Rs that it was tuned by them. I’m going haltech but I really want to figure this issue out before the standalone comes into play.



I made it detail so I can get the best feedback lmk if you know any solutions !!



Do you have a wideband? 45psi seems a bit high for the fpr. Stop being cheap and buy a new knock sensor. Also a sensor that gives a lot of headaches is the engine coolant temp sensor, not the single pin for the gauge, the dual pin one, when that thing takes a shit it will make your car run like crap. Replace those 2 sensors and verify that your fpr should be set that high


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[Statichris]

Do you have a wideband? 45psi seems a bit high for the fpr. Stop being cheap and buy a new knock sensor. Also a sensor that gives a lot of headaches is the engine coolant temp sensor, not the single pin for the gauge, the dual pin one, when that thing takes a shit it will make your car run like crap. Replace those 2 sensors and verify that your fpr should be set that high


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So talked to buddy’s son that sold me the swap, I put the correct octane fuel which was 93 & lowered fuel pressure to 40psi, the idling issue got better and cylinders stopped misfiring. Still sputters & runs insanely rich. I have a brand new Aem x series wideband, but don’t want to install it until I purchase my standalone. The Enthalpy ecu requires a narrow band anyway.

As of right now, I have a new knock sensor, temp sensors, cap & rotor, more spark plugs, main coil, ICM, Intake mani gaskets & new piping for the intercooler on the way. Want to make sure there isn’t any boost/vacuum leaks. Also sending the injectors off to get flow tested & cleaned. Will start on it again next week when parts arrive. Will keep updated.