Ok, I don't really want to have to get into this argument again, but seeing as how you guys are misinforming him on a couple of things, I will have to straighten some things out.
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">well the ka motor is very detonant resistant because of larger oil capacity and because its an iron block.
sr is a good motor dont get me wrong its just that its a hassle and you dont know what u are getting unless u rebuild.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Wrong. The KA is not more detonant resistant than the SR. Detonation has to do with the Air/Fuel mixture, and how hot the engine is running, which has nothing to do with oil. Oil is a lubrication, not a coolant.
Also, most reliable sources for SR importing will test the engine before they sell it. So yes, you do know if it is in good running condition.
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">sr fails around 400 hp guaranteed, jun told me that one. in order to go higher in the sr u need to run aquamist or sleeve the block since its aluminum.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Wrong again. People have proven the SR to be able to run in upwards of 450 HP at the wheels reliably. The SR and the KA both can handle about the same amount of power before the bottom end needs to be rebuilt. I'm pretty sure that the block has Steel sleaves stock, but I could be wrong about that, if not yes, for very high horsepower applications, it will need to be sleaved.
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">for the same money u can rebuild the ka get 70 lb an hour injector program from jim wolf, rev hard manifold and whatever else and have around 550 to the fly</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I don't know if you mean for the same money as a swap, but if you do, we must live on different planets! An Nsport turbo kit will run you about $3300, and assuming you don't install it yourself, then it will be what, another $500 - $700 to have installed?
Ok, now you can get an S13 SR20DET for $2500, that will include everything you need, except maybe a few miscellaneous parts here and there (we will say $200 worth of extras that were missing). Install about the same as a turbo kit, maybe a little more, let's say $850 - $1000.
The price turns out to be about the same, but you will be putting more power out in the turboed KA (which to me, is it's only advantage). Price is not an issue anymore, is it?
Ok, now why the power comparison is unfair. The turbo kits sold for the KA24 use T03/T04 hybrid turbos, which are bigger than the T25 (or T28 if it's an S15) turbos that the SR's run stock. The fact is, even if you turned up the boost on these stock turbos, you could get the same amount of power out of the engine (once again, completely stock), as you can out of the turboed KA.
The fact is, what engine is better, really depends on your application. The KA is better if you want to have gobs of torque and have a more even power band. The SR is better if you want it to rev higher, and you want more high-end power. I might post more later, but right now, I just don't feel like it, I think this is long enough.