ARP Head Studs Problem

[outfronts13]

I had a major issue when torquing down my new ARP head studs for my SR. The instructions given to me by ARP stated to torque the nuts in three equal steps to 90ft lbs. I followed the instructions, yet one of my studs stripped into my block at 60 ft lbs. Do i do a helicoil kit install in the hole??. This is so frustrating


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[5280VertDET]

I thought I saw a youtuber heilcoil and it held, but I dunno about long term and it depends where most of the stripping is...

The other option is to up a stud size, but that usually means machine shop and more time/money...
Shit, sorry hombre!

[outfronts13]

I most likely will Helicoil it but it annoying I am going to contact ARP about it


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[5280VertDET]

I most likely will Helicoil it but it annoying I am going to contact ARP about it


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Goodluck dude. Super, Super Shitty.

[outfronts13]

Yeah Its super annoying I have to take the head back off and fix it


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[smoked240]

I wouldn't point any fingers quite yet! sounds like maybe the stud wasn't fully seated into the block? Or the threaded hole was weak to begin with. I remember hearing Sr20's and arp headstuds wouldn't fully seat? not sure if arp has fixed this issue. I've never owned an sr20 so I'm not too sure!

personally I would upsize the hole to the next arp size and thread it. However I have seen helicoil hold just fine.

Goodluck my dude!

[hanzbrady]

It's a known issue that the ARP head studs do not bottom out in the SR20 block like they're supposed to, that's why the Mazworx kit exists. It has over twice the thread engagement with a bullnose tip to full engage all of the threads available.

This means that with less torque they actually have a higher effective clamping force.

http://www.mazworx.com/store/p/141-Mazworx-SR20-Head-stud-Kit.aspx

[outfronts13]

It's a known issue that the ARP head studs do not bottom out in the SR20 block like they're supposed to, that's why the Mazworx kit exists. It has over twice the thread engagement with a bullnose tip to full engage all of the threads available.

This means that with less torque they actually have a higher effective clamping force.

http://www.mazworx.com/store/p/141-Mazworx-SR20-Head-stud-Kit.aspx



So it not actually stripped so the ARP studs are just not bottoming out correctly. So should I just buy the Mazworks kit


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[hanzbrady]

So it not actually stripped so the ARP studs are just not bottoming out correctly. So should I just buy the Mazworks kit


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Well if you pulled the threads out of your block that would definitely qualify as "stripped" and you would need to helicoil the block to correct it. Once you do that then I would recommend running the Mazworx stud.

[outfronts13]

Thank you for the advice. I didn’t pull threads out so I’m wondering if when torquing it down the studs wasn’t bottom out all the way


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[outfronts13]

Well I went to my local engine builder to have Timesert put into my block and after having block inspected. I come to find out the studs went into the waterjacket of the block. So I need to get a new block


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[tb13]

Save yourself headache and get the Mazworx studs when you replace the block. The thread engagement is so much better. I can't believe ARP still offers such an awful kit, so many people have issues with their heads lifting or tearing threads out of the block...

[Marphie21]

Woh. Could you post some pic of the stud in question? I've had 3 S13 SR20DET engines built with ARP studs and neither had any trouble.

But that really sucks man.