Preparation for the road

[oLemurs]

I am getting my car ready to go on the road for the first time in over 5 years, i swapped in an SR20 and did a whole bunch of other stuff, i should note the car has 300 thousand miles. basically i have to drive it on a pretty lengthy 30 minute trip back to my house but i cannot break down. i am wondering what you guys think i should do before i go on this trip. i did do a quick bolt check on the suspension and everything looks good. the only thing is my driveshaft for some reason has a bolt that is sticking out about an inch or two. there are 3 other bolts so im assuming itll be ok. (bolt is near the transmission not differential and no its not for the carrier bearing.) is there anything else i should worry about (besides feds).
EDIT the cars not trash, it has all new suspension in the rear and almost all new in the front, i just need to know things to check over that could cause an issue or tips for driving it.

[Kingtal0n]

I mean. One time I drove a 240sx I had just swapped an SR20 into that had been sitting for 10+ years at a friends house and the tires were so bad, wrecked and totaled it in the rain on the first drive.

Make sure you check all the fluids check for leaks/smoke, tight lugnuts and of course don't wreck it with shitty tires.

[jedi03]

i would do a once over on everything, do a quick 10 min drive and check for leaks before a long trip like that...I do 45 min one way every day so I'm in the same boat!

[oLemurs]

I mean. One time I drove a 240sx I had just swapped an SR20 into that had been sitting for 10+ years at a friends house and the tires were so bad, wrecked and totaled it in the rain on the first drive.

Make sure you check all the fluids check for leaks/smoke, tight lugnuts and of course don't wreck it with shitty tires.

shit my back tires are shot, was it raining when you wrecked?

EDIT im dumb and didnt read the part where you said it was raining. i know better than to drive a car with shot tires in the rain XD

[derass]

good thing you started with an SR swap on that 300k mile chassis

maybe you should just get it towed that 30 min if it's still a heap and not ready for the road

[Kingtal0n]

Yep, it had JUST started raining and I had it in 3rd, probably 30-45mph, tires spun way too easy when that fresh water hit the ground and the car seemed to steer itself right into a tree.

[oLemurs]

good thing you started with an SR swap on that 300k mile chassis

maybe you should just get it towed that 30 min if it's still a heap and not ready for the road

kys, i didnt start the swap i bought the car and the motor for 2600 which is what it wouldve costed just for the motor so i dont want to hear shit. and no it is ready for the road but i want to make sure it goes smoothly.

[5280VertDET]

Fucking tow it.

You are putting your and other's lives on the line for $150 tow.

[afishysilvia]

kys, i didnt start the swap i bought the car and the motor for 2600 which is what it wouldve costed just for the motor so i dont want to hear shit. and no it is ready for the road but i want to make sure it goes smoothly. is that too hard for you to understand fucking dickhead

lol <3 Zilvia

[oLemurs]

Fucking tow it.

You are putting your and other's lives on the line for $150 tow.

im really not though, ive had an inspection and it was good so idk wtf you are thinking

[oLemurs]

lol <3 Zilvia

fires me up when people think any car over 300k should just be scrapped

[afishysilvia]

fires me up when people think any car over 300k should just be scrapped

I feel you, mine had 230k but I think they were simply implying why risk your investment. If you feel you can do it safely maybe during non peak traffic hours is best depending on where you live. Otherwise Id say better safe than sorry man and try a cheap tow. Check offer up instead of calling a tow company, there are many people who do it on the side with trailers and what not. :2f2f:

[oLemurs]

i should probably mention since this is getting so much hate ive replaced the rear subframe and everything that attatches to it, ive replaced from LCA's new 5 lug hubs brand 300zx calipers in front and reman calipers in the back, all new pads and rotors and new coilovers. the issue is not being sketchy and getting into a wreck, its the motor breaking down on me.

[5280VertDET]

Send it, brah! #YOLO!!

That the answer you want?

[jumpman2334]

the only thing is my driveshaft for some reason has a bolt that is sticking out about an inch or two. there are 3 other bolts so im assuming itll be ok.this is gonna be great. let us know how it goes.

[Kviper52]

Its painfully obvious when people sub 21 years of age post. I remember when I was a hardheaded newcomer. subbed for defensive comebacks

[oLemurs]

this is gonna be great. let us know how it goes.

when i said i was assuming it will be ok i was referring to it not having issues on any of my shake downs. obviously this isnt permanant im going to get a one piece once i can come up with 300
EDIT while im waiting for my plates to arrive i guess i can take it out and use my tap and dye set on the nut and bolt

[oLemurs]

Send it, brah! #YOLO!!

That the answer you want?

no i was looking for advice like things to check over that commonly go bad when the car is high milage not people telling me something i already know. if i tow it there what the fuck is the point its going to break eventually. so i might as well try to save the money for a tow.

[oLemurs]

I feel you, mine had 230k but I think they were simply implying why risk your investment. If you feel you can do it safely maybe during non peak traffic hours is best depending on where you live. Otherwise Id say better safe than sorry man and try a cheap tow. Check offer up instead of calling a tow company, there are many people who do it on the side with trailers and what not. :2f2f:

true i was planning on just limping it home going the speed limit. if it breaks down thats what i have AAA for.

[oscarsx]

Don't feel bad, your 300k miles s chassis is probably in better shape than 80% of the people here.


Ig: @ozckouki

[oLemurs]

Don't feel bad, your 300k miles s chassis is probably in better shape than 80% of the people here.


Ig: @ozckouki

thank you, most of the suspension is brand new and almost everything on this car has been gone over. i would also like to think that im not an average 240 owner but i know the people on here think exactly that of me. plus its not like i half assed this swap i have a new wiring specialties harness, and all brand name stuff the only ebay part i have put on here was a few ISR parts.

[PatPs13]

Get an $80 AAA membership, push it out onto the street unplug a vacuum line and say it wont start. They tow you up to 100 miles four times a year plus lockouts and gas delivery. It's saved my ass once already, it's well worth it.

Edit: Just noticed you have AAA, Good luck dude.

[oLemurs]

Get an $80 AAA membership, push it out onto the street unplug a vacuum line and say it wont start. They tow you up to 100 miles four times a year plus lockouts and gas delivery. It's saved my ass once already, it's well worth it.

Edit: Just noticed you have AAA, Good luck dude.

well its not the fact that i cant afford a tow its more the fact of im going to have to drive it on the road eventually so i want to make sure its dialed in for the trip because if it has a problem it will break one way or the other weather im doing a road trip or just driving it to work but thanks for the advice anyway

[Calver]

Get an $80 AAA membership, push it out onto the street unplug a vacuum line and say it wont start. They tow you up to 100 miles four times a year plus lockouts and gas delivery. It's saved my ass once already, it's well worth it.

Edit: Just noticed you have AAA, Good luck dude.

Used to hear about the vacuum line trick before. Sounds really worth it.

[smoked240]

Its painfully obvious when people sub 21 years of age post. I remember when I was a hardheaded newcomer. subbed for defensive comebacks

Hahahaha this is too true:keke:

[Jorgs_7]

Check engine oil level.
Check brake fluid level.
Check power steering fluid level.
Check coolant level. (In radiator..)
Put all 4 tires at 34 PSI.
Torque all lug nuts to 85 lb-ft
Ensure battery terminals are tight and corrosion free.
Ensure battery is strapped down.
Ensure battery voltage is >12.0v

Basically the simple to-do's that anyone should check before driving anything that has sat for a long time.

Get under there and replace that transmission mount bolt :facepalm:

and.......... don't send it. Even though your 18 year old ass will want to.

[oLemurs]

Check engine oil level.
Check brake fluid level.
Check power steering fluid level.
Check coolant level. (In radiator..)
Put all 4 tires at 34 PSI.
Torque all lug nuts to 85 lb-ft
Ensure battery terminals are tight and corrosion free.
Ensure battery is strapped down.
Ensure battery voltage is >12.0v

Basically the simple to-do's that anyone should check before driving anything that has sat for a long time.

Get under there and replace that transmission mount bolt :facepalm:

and.......... don't send it. Even though your 18 year old ass will want to.

so pretty much the basics, and no i wouldnt just send it when my clutch is brand new. and yea im going to get under there tomorrow and put in my new driveshaft

[oLemurs]

alright guys my plates finally arrived and i drove it around the neighborhood a little but i did notice something, when coming to a stop if i put the car into neutral it will want to die, sometimes it does, and most times it will pick back up. before you ask no i did not recirc my BOV and yes it still happens off boost. im assuming vaccuum leak or bad grounds what are your guys thoughts? btw throwing in a small clip of it just for you all to take a look at my car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OF1Y3fFhe0

[Thedriftbadger]

Check and clean your iacv and reset your tps correctly with a multimeter. Check for vacuum leaks. You need to recirculate your bov or just tighten it enough that it doesn't open.
My story about a similar situation to yours: About 3 years ago my rb blew up two days before i had to drive half way up the east coast, about 650 miles. I had a ka torn down to a bare block on a stand in my garage. I already had new bearings so i bought a gasket set to complete it at autozone. Slammed it together as fast as i could. Had it in the car the day before i had to leave, all seemed well. Next morning 5am me and my 20 mile engine head out. Had a pit in my stomach for the first few hours but i made it 11 straight hours without a hiccup. Moral of the story; I would have been a million times more fucked if it broke than you will be so stop being a little bitch

[tuzzio]

What BOV are you running? Make sure its not staying open at idle, and make sure it isn't leaking.

[oLemurs]

What BOV are you running? Make sure its not staying open at idle, and make sure it isn't leaking.

greddy type S bov, its closed most of the time because when im in low boost ill still hear the turbo flutter but good point ill have to check it.

[oLemurs]

Check and clean your iacv and reset your tps correctly with a multimeter. Check for vacuum leaks. You need to recirculate your bov or just tighten it enough that it doesn't open.
My story about a similar situation to yours: About 3 years ago my rb blew up two days before i had to drive half way up the east coast, about 650 miles. I had a ka torn down to a bare block on a stand in my garage. I already had new bearings so i bought a gasket set to complete it at autozone. Slammed it together as fast as i could. Had it in the car the day before i had to leave, all seemed well. Next morning 5am me and my 20 mile engine head out. Had a pit in my stomach for the first few hours but i made it 11 straight hours without a hiccup. Moral of the story; I would have been a million times more fucked if it broke than you will be so stop being a little bitch

not sure what you mean by check the IACV but i did have it out and cleaned it all down with carb cleaner a while back, along with the TPS i have a new one and i calibrated it when i put it on but ill check over it again and look for vacuum leaks again
EDIT youre right ill stop being a bitch and just send it sideways

[Coupes_FTW]

Take it to Midas for a 15 pt inspection

[oLemurs]

welp drove it around 40 minutes today and i can say it went pretty well, at the end though after a few pulls i noticed it start to break up at low rpms and make it was pretty hard to start back up. once i limped it home i noticed my fans were not working (wiring issue already fixed) and i got a code for the coolant temp sensor. i was wondering if any of you know what the issue could be, although i dont think i overheated the car because the temperature gauge was right in the middle the whole time. ill start with a new coolant temp sensor sub harness and see if that fixes it (you know crusty nissan wires from the 90s dont hold up) and i will attach a video of what exactly happened.
https://youtu.be/QSg_AEbIe54?t=223

[oLemurs]

welp drove it around 40 minutes today and i can say it went pretty well, at the end though after a few pulls i noticed it start to break up at low rpms and make it was pretty hard to start back up. once i limped it home i noticed my fans were not working (wiring issue already fixed) and i got a code for the coolant temp sensor. i was wondering if any of you know what the issue could be, although i dont think i overheated the car because the temperature gauge was right in the middle the whole time. ill start with a new coolant temp sensor sub harness and see if that fixes it (you know crusty nissan wires from the 90s dont hold up) and i will attach a video of what exactly happened.
https://youtu.be/QSg_AEbIe54?t=223

to keep you all updated i put the old coolant temp sensor back in and it runs great now.

[oLemurs]

this is gonna be great. let us know how it goes.

went fine made it all the way...

[tuzzio]

Get a aftermarket coolant temp gauge. The OEM one has like a 40* window. Its useless.