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View Full Version : Calling all SR Gurus, strange pulley issue.

R3b
04-13-2018, 07:14 PM
To make a long story short talked my buddy into picking up a "backyard" zenki with a built SR20vet, engine is solid but wiring wise the car is a mess. Had regular female clips to the VVL solenoid, mess of intercooler couplers, no eccs relay giving the ecu 12v, fan running 24/7 off ignition, tac jumps around like crazy or never reads, no speedo, shitty gauges, leaking a bit of oil by pan (which we fixed and did front/rear seal) etc

Basically got it non running, turns out its the tune and put it back to "stock". Z32 maf with 370ccs on regular chipped ecu so now the issue is this. There is a crazy belt wine and further investigating looks like closest pulley to the block for the water pump and alt are all sorts of off....

Looks like the crank sits way too forward and when taking off the water pump pulley there were stacks of washers behind it. Now im coming from knowledge from building kas but does mix matching pulleys between s13/s14 cause so much of a gap? When I look up pictures online of sr20 crank pulley the timing pin is right on the edge of the pulley, on this motor which is a s13 harness inside an s14 not sure if s13 bottom block or s14 since the head is VVL.

I think this pulley is from an s14 since I was reading that 3 rows is s14 and 4 rows is s13 for powersteering belts but when I looked up "lightweight" pulley all listing for sale online say for s13-s15 or just sr20 no matter year or chassis.

I took off the crank pulley thinking it was the key but it checked out fine, retorqued it and landed up in the same spot. The gap between the crank pulley and timing mark is about the same distance thats off between the other pulleys.

So not sure if I need to order the correct crank pulley for bottom end of the block(all sr20 share the same crank itself afaik) get different set of "light weight pulley" or something is up with the front cover stopping the crank from sitting closer to the block.

My buddies pulley
https://i.imgur.com/JFdKuV1.jpg

What i've seen online
https://i.imgur.com/TlAKTvg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0lJ3zOJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/NNvAFK1.jpg
Kingtal0n
04-14-2018, 12:18 AM
Jesus, (&#@#(&*$ I've never heard of such shenanigans.

Err if you dont know what you have, or can't tell,

I recommend getting a complete accessory setup from a good running proper engine and swapping it over. Spacers under the water pump? Sounds like a nightmare for a setup which could be so simple and reliable.

If not, you might have a FWD crank pulley or something. might wwant to start there
edit: missed the VE part. thats a whole additional ball of wax you really didn't need or want, sorry.
Yellow4g63
04-14-2018, 12:32 AM
If it's done right that would be a SR20VE front cover. And the timing mark won't line up. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/timing-pin-relocator-sr20ve-sr16ve
hanzbrady
04-14-2018, 07:45 AM
If that's a RWD pulley and a VE oil pump get the back of the pulley machined and buy these parts,

http://www.mazworx.com/store/p/353-RWD-VVL-Conversion-Timing-Pointer.aspx

http://www.mazworx.com/store/p/266-Mazworx-SR-Oil-Collar-Spacer.aspx
jr_ss
04-14-2018, 07:54 PM
Agree with Hanz. Pulley needs to be machined and the timing pin relocator installed. You cannot time the motor without it.
R3b
04-14-2018, 08:13 PM
Jesus, (&#@#(&*$ I've never heard of such shenanigans.

Err if you dont know what you have, or can't tell,

I recommend getting a complete accessory setup from a good running proper engine and swapping it over. Spacers under the water pump? Sounds like a nightmare for a setup which could be so simple and reliable.

If not, you might have a FWD crank pulley or something. might wwant to start there
edit: missed the VE part. thats a whole additional ball of wax you really didn't need or want, sorry.

Yeah it needs major TLC but hey! If you want to take a crack at tuning it your more than welcome. I still hear nothing but good things from the locals in sfl about your tunes. I might need one as well for my built ka-t, I emailed you way long ago about this lean issue, eventually figured it out to being shitty injectors, went top feed 1050x by ID and have been daily driving the car almost a year.

If it's done right that would be a SR20VE front cover. And the timing mark won't line up. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/timing-pin-relocator-sr20ve-sr16ve

The word right in this car doesnt add up... but this seems like the case and the last owner used a colar spacer. I'll check tomorrow if its VE front or DE cover.

If that's a RWD pulley and a VE oil pump get the back of the pulley machined and buy these parts,

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How much would need to be machined by? I saw the link but doesn't say how much wider the collar is by itself. Could you PM me since I was going to email mazwork customer service anyway about this? My machinist could take off it but my biggest concern if there is any is of crank balancing. Would taking off material after the motor has been assembled and ran for a good awhile be an issue with vibration? Do you think ATI has a pulley for VE swap that is short or could make something like that? My buddy has money to spend but he wants to go fast and beat on it while not having to work on the car hence why im the one fixing it lol
hanzbrady
04-15-2018, 04:04 PM
How much would need to be machined by? I saw the link but doesn't say how much wider the collar is by itself. Could you PM me since I was going to email mazwork customer service anyway about this? My machinist could take off it but my biggest concern if there is any is of crank balancing. Would taking off material after the motor has been assembled and ran for a good awhile be an issue with vibration? Do you think ATI has a pulley for VE swap that is short or could make something like that? My buddy has money to spend but he wants to go fast and beat on it while not having to work on the car hence why im the one fixing it lol

I'm not exactly sure just call Mazworx. I want to say pulley machining was $30-$80 and a 1 day turn around time.

There's no concern in causing an imbalance machining the back of the pulley. You're removing a even amount from as close to the center of rotation as possible.

The cranks in these engines are also zero balanced as well as the hubs and flywheels, it's not like an old 302 for example where the hubs and flywheels are precision counter weighted.

No one makes a pulley for the RWD VE setup you just have to modify the RWD one.