→ → → Help : Traction Control Options ← ← ←

[mogli9000]

For the serious car builders,

What kind of traction control setup are you using?

I've been wanting the race logic system, but they have gone out of business.

If you can shed some light or some recommendations on a traction control setup. I would highly appreciate it and shoot you some cash to cover some beers over paypal for the assistance if I end up going that route.

I'm currently on a PFC for my JZ 240sx. I love my power fc and the fact I have my buddy who specializes in tuning for just that platform.

I would like to keep the PFC if possible, but might have to jump over to the INFINITY or Pro EFI if there aren't any independent options as far as traction control goes.

Somebody change my mind!

Thanks :kiss:

[RB25GUY]

Well I know it's kinda the easy way out but with the apexi boost controller it can do boost by gear I mean it's not a full 8 dial traction Control but if it's 1st and 2nd and third you aren't getting traction in would help tremendously... I'm sure both of you discussed that option tho.

[hanzbrady]

Motec would be the solution.

[TheRealSy90]

AEM Infinity with front and rear wheel speed input from the oem ABS sensors.

[slider2828]

Greddy Profec E01 can help with RPM and Speed.... but other than that you gotta switch to different system

[Kingtal0n]

There are two kinds of traction control systems I am aware of

One is reducing power for traction

the other is increasing traction with no loss of power


Usually you go with the first one because its alot easier to reduce power. If the engine is DBW this is how factory cars do "traction control" in a majority of situations is simply reduce throttle position. The engine can also be made to accelerate more smoothly using a gradual throttle opening program which helps traction as well.

Which brings us to the subject of boost control. If traction is an issue and you don't have DBW the next best thing is boost control. Use a controller that will allow you to assign duty cycle VS speed conditions (stand-alone like haltech, and apexi avcr are some familiar units) and you would dial in the boost ramp so the tires don't spin.

Finally there are many ways to pull timing for torque reduction. Simply reduce timing in the areas of the map where you are having wheel spin.

If your goal is to improve traction without reducing power this is still done in conjunction with a mild boost ramp and other tricks as to not "shock" the tire with sudden torque. You want the torque to come in gradually. The best way to increase dry traction without reducing power is to use a better tire. Plenty of cars launch just fine that go 5 seconds or whatever with the right tire. If you are stuck with street tires there are two other small options. One is weight transfer mechanisms which involves suspension design to help put the weight of the vehicle "into" the rear tire so it doesn't spin. The other is once moving, downforce is an option to help plant the rear at higher speeds, but it consumes power.

[mogli9000]

Well I know it's kinda the easy way out but with the apexi boost controller it can do boost by gear I mean it's not a full 8 dial traction Control but if it's 1st and 2nd and third you aren't getting traction in would help tremendously... I'm sure both of you discussed that option tho.

Thanks for bringing that up.

Its been floating in my mind, but sort of a last resort option pending my timelines and what hook-ups I can utilize to bring build costs down.


There are two kinds of traction control systems I am aware of

One is reducing power for traction

the other is increasing traction with no loss of power


Usually you go with the first one because its alot easier to reduce power. If the engine is DBW this is how factory cars do "traction control" in a majority of situations is simply reduce throttle position. The engine can also be made to accelerate more smoothly using a gradual throttle opening program which helps traction as well.

Which brings us to the subject of boost control. If traction is an issue and you don't have DBW the next best thing is boost control. Use a controller that will allow you to assign duty cycle VS speed conditions (stand-alone like haltech, and apexi avcr are some familiar units) and you would dial in the boost ramp so the tires don't spin.

Finally there are many ways to pull timing for torque reduction. Simply reduce timing in the areas of the map where you are having wheel spin.

If your goal is to improve traction without reducing power this is still done in conjunction with a mild boost ramp and other tricks as to not "shock" the tire with sudden torque. You want the torque to come in gradually. The best way to increase dry traction without reducing power is to use a better tire. Plenty of cars launch just fine that go 5 seconds or whatever with the right tire. If you are stuck with street tires there are two other small options. One is weight transfer mechanisms which involves suspension design to help put the weight of the vehicle "into" the rear tire so it doesn't spin. The other is once moving, downforce is an option to help plant the rear at higher speeds, but it consumes power.

Looking into a reputable independent fuel cut based T/C system.

Launch control, data logs, and the typical additions would be great.

I'm more worried about my rear breaking loose while I am full throttle into a high g corner. I was hoping that a quality traction control system would allow me to more balance out the power of my vehicle. I enjoy having the peace of mind while pushing a vehicle to its highest potential.


Greddy Profec E01 can help with RPM and Speed.... but other than that you gotta switch to different system

Could be. Just a little outdated for current setup.

Thanks for the feedback.


AEM Infinity with front and rear wheel speed input from the oem ABS sensors.

Yeah. Appreciate your chime in.


Motec would be the solution.

Its always been on my options list. Just can't justify the price tag plus re-configuring my setup that works.

Might have to just take the kick in the wallet :naw:

[slider2828]

Mogli, supposedly the new Greddy Boost MAP meter can map based on gear, rpm, speed, and other optional stuff.

[SR Powah]

If you are worried about corners, I would lean more towards mechanical grip or downforce assuming a track setting. Most traction control systems kicking in will cost you seconds on the track compared to a driver that knows the cars limit.

[McRussellPants]

If you're looking for active traction control as a piggy back system you're gonna have a bad time. There's some stuff out there that pro mod dudes like but its like riding an Amish buggy relative to any actual motorsports ecu

Dont get me wrong I love the Power FC more than anyone, but you're looking for big kids functions on scootypuff jr hardware.

Link is probably your best bet for budget active traction control.

[S-Verteen]

There are some guys who race dirt cars that are using Davis Technologies. Davis offers specific models to what you are racing and some are self learning and require no sensors

[McRussellPants]

There are some guys who race dirt cars that are using Davis Technologies. Davis offers specific models to what you are racing and some are self learning and require no sensors


3000$ for a passive traction control box that won't work with a power FC is a bad time.

[Agamemnon]

I know RaceLogic doesn't produce their TC systems anymore, but have you thought of trying to find a used system? Maybe swing over SXOC.com forums and put a feeler out. RaceLogic still supports the TC systems, but if you buy used you'll have to pay them.