sr running like doo doo

[oLemurs]

Before i start let me say i have been trying to figure this out for weeks now and i cant seem to find anything online.
like the title says my sr20det runs terribly when i am anywhere under 3000 RPM, i can hold it there and i hear a missfire, its not constant neither. ill start with what i have replaced. New Fuel pressure regulator, new fuel pump, new spark plugs, new ignition coils, timing set to the center (not fine tuned with a light). Checked the TPS sensor at closed throttle, it looked good. the car just runs like dog s*** and is super rich. i havnt taken it on the road and the exhaust is coated DARK black and it sprays black s*** out (im assuming its just water contaimated with soot) black smoke comes out the exhaust if i put a decent load on it and at idle so much smoke comes out its like i have a blown headgasket (but i dont and it smells like fuel) I took out all spark plugs multiple times and they smelled like fuel and were dark black each time. on cyl 3 after a cold start it came out a little wet but after i warmed up the engine to full OT i checked them all and no visible fuel on any of them. ive heard if my MAF isnt 24 inches away i could have problems but i unplugged the maf and it sounded pretty bad. (i couldnt tell if it was still the same misfire). ill post videos but ive done so much research and am about to just pick up a new SR from JDM hookup. Another think i want to mention is vacuum leaks. i tried to find some but could not find any of them. is it a vacuum leak if i go to hit my brakes after about 1 hour of my car running and there is no more vacuum pressure built up in the brake booster? (PS i know i have some compressor surge i need to buy a T for the BOV
Here is a compilation of all the clips
https://youtu.be/TnUTeD-fB0c

[Dirk Jan]

Seems like I can hear a huge vaccuum leak in your video. Check the vaccuum hose from the inlet manifold to the brake brake booster, and also check the one way valve that's supposed to be in there. Check if there's any connections on your inlet manifold currently not hooked up to anything.

If there's a leak after your throttle body it will do just what it does now.

[5280VertDET]

Check your coil packs for cracks, there is some idle and spark problem.

[humancola]

Dumb thought, but injector stuck and dumping fuel?

[5280VertDET]

Dumb thought, but injector stuck and dumping fuel?

That's not dumb, thats what I was thinking too. However, there would be more fuel in the cylinders if one were stuck open.

On second though, pull the injectors and check for broken o-ring seals, caps or debris.

[ImThatGuy]

While car is running, unplug one injector and see if it changes the way car runs? Might narrow down to one cylinder/injector being the culprit.

[oLemurs]

While car is running, unplug one injector and see if it changes the way car runs? Might narrow down to one cylinder/injector being the culprit.

Shit I might as well just buy new injectors

[oLemurs]

Seems like I can hear a huge vaccuum leak in your video. Check the vaccuum hose from the inlet manifold to the brake brake booster, and also check the one way valve that's supposed to be in there. Check if there's any connections on your inlet manifold currently not hooked up to anything.

If there's a leak after your throttle body it will do just what it does now.

Now that I think about it I didn’t put a hose clamp on that brake booster hose. I’ll have to check there. This is what I was thinking because I saw a lot of videos of people making their car sound “crammed” by doing this but I could never find the leak

[ImThatGuy]

check for leaks using brake clean. Spray the connections and see if there is change in idle.

[ImThatGuy]

Shit I might as well just buy new injectors

You can narrow it down prior to buying them

[oLemurs]

check for leaks using brake clean. Spray the connections and see if there is change in idle.

ill have to try that, do you think starting fluid would also work?

[5280VertDET]

ill have to try that, do you think starting fluid would also work?

ubetcha.
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[oLemurs]

an update on the situation, i looked for vacuum leaks and replaced a whole bunch of lines and couldnt find any, i tried with starting fluid and brake cleaner and nothing changed. i unplugged the brake booster under the intake and blocked it off with my finger and it still didnt get better. i am getting a code of 12 which is MAF sensor. i unplugged the MAF and let it run a bit but it died out and i heard a weird spark sound. now when i go to start the engine with or without the MAF it turns over and the RPM guage will go max out but the engine WONT START. im so confused im thinking about just putting it away for winter and saving the car for the summer.

https://youtu.be/-_RhCQ1qhZA

after thinking about it my guess is maybe the ECU melted and some of the solders flowed to the ecu wire??? or maybe a wire or two melted to the tach wire. i think im going to get a new harness

[Blk96t]

Maf sensor. The computer even said so and sr ecu's don't throw a lot of codes easily. The black smoke and no revs is an indicator. Clean it or try a buddies. Easy.

Btw computers rarely get "fried" its usually something else.

[Blk96t]

Watched your video also. Defiantly the MAF. That's if you have no leaks.
Try a friends, that is free. Or mafs cleaner.
I seriously went through this a month ago. I had a New ISR z32 maf go bad.

[oLemurs]

Watched your video also. Defiantly the MAF. That's if you have no leaks.
Try a friends, that is free. Or mafs cleaner.
I seriously went through this a month ago. I had a New ISR z32 maf go bad.

ok ill just purchase a new MAF because im almost certain i have no vacuum leaks. i was out there for about 3 hours spraying terminals and no luck. but what do you think would cause the tach to have a seizure when i try to start?

[oLemurs]

an update on the situation, i looked for vacuum leaks and replaced a whole bunch of lines and couldnt find any, i tried with starting fluid and brake cleaner and nothing changed. i unplugged the brake booster under the intake and blocked it off with my finger and it still didnt get better. i am getting a code of 12 which is MAF sensor. i unplugged the MAF and let it run a bit but it died out and i heard a weird spark sound. now when i go to start the engine with or without the MAF it turns over and the RPM guage will go max out but the engine WONT START. im so confused im thinking about just putting it away for winter and saving the car for the summer.

https://youtu.be/-_RhCQ1qhZA

after thinking about it my guess is maybe the ECU melted and some of the solders flowed to the ecu wire??? or maybe a wire or two melted to the tach wire. i think im going to get a new harness
Found out the problem is the last owner didnt really know how to solder too well and some solders fell off and the wires touched eachoter