Installed Subframe Risers and Car Does Not Start/Loses Power

[1on1]

I find this odd since all I did was jack up my car, remove the rear subframe and reinstalled it with risers. I tried to start my car today and when I turn the key, I have no power. When I move the key to off, I have power again (Clock turns on when the key is Off and the Clock turns off when I try to start my car).

In addition, the only power tool I used on the car was a cutting wheel to cut the dust shield off the rear brakes while the battery was still plugged in.

I've read that it can be the starter relay or the ignition switch but I find it weird that it would do this. I will check the starter relay tomorrow to see if that's the issue. Any ideas what else can cause this issue?

My car is 1995 240sx with a blacktop s13

[nissansrdub]

Dead battery? Get it tested


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[brndck]

dead battery or poor connection at the battery
especially if your clock does come on, I'd say poor connection

replacing the subframe would have nothing to do with battery. I mean, there are literally zero electrical connections involved with the job

[1on1]

^that's what I was saying. I am just confused because I drove my car a week prior to doing the install. Also, my buddy says it's probably my battery. I am probably overthinking it, so I'm gonna drop off my battery after work. :picardfp:

[[240sx]]

I mean, there are literally zero electrical connections involved with the job
...Well, there is -a- ground strap. lol
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[brndck]

;6218279']...Well, there is -a- ground strap. lol
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lol I stand corrected

[jumpman2334]

how old is the battery? beware of the battery testers at autozone/o rileys, etc.


I had a dead battery in my 94 Toyota pickup (no cranking) and they tested it at orileys and said it was fine. they don't do load testing, just basic voltage testing, so I assume if a load test could have been performed it would have failed the load test.


if you have a buddy who has a s chassis, or a spare battery from another car, swap it out and confirm the battery is dead that way. that is what I did, takes a couple of minutes and its free (my dumb ass bought a starter before I isolated the problem with another battery).


from what I understand, batteries don't like to sit. I know a classic Camaro guy who has a couple of Camaros and they're on trickle chargers 24/7 (unless being driven), his batteries are almost 10 years old.

[1on1]

I have a yellow top Optima from 2012. Battery charged fine without any issues and when I tried to start my car; same symptoms. Right when I try to start the car, power goes away.

My thought was the battery is bad so I swapped it in my ls400 and it started fine without issues. I couldn't use my ls400's battery because I am using the side post on my optima. This is really weird but I guess I'll be looking into the starter relay.

[!Zar!]

Maybe you pinched the fuel lines somehow...?

[Tempo]

I'm banking strongly that the battery just happened to go out conveniently right when you decided to work on the car.

I've worked on my rear end quite a few times and also having an optima(red top) from 2012 ^__^ If not the battery(damn good batteries) I hope its really minor dude!

[1on1]

Mel,

Will having a pinch fuel line (which I hope I don't have) cause the issue to lose power when I try to start?

Tempo,
This is super weird but I am going to look into replacing the starter relay.

On the other hand, if I can't figure this out by today, I'll post a video on exactly what happens so you guys can have a visual. I want to be confident that either the starter relay or ignition switch decided to take a shit on me. At least these two will be easier to fix, than a pinched fuel line.

[[240sx]]

Mel,

Will having a pinch fuel line (which I hope I don't have) cause the issue to lose power when I try to start? Is this a safety thing?
Im no mechanic, but It doesnt sound like you have a fuel related issue. Fuel line could be pinched, open to air, or choked with poo...and the motor would still turn over cranking.


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[1on1]

That's what I was thinking because at least my engine should crank and stuff. I'll post a video when I get off work so you guys can see what I am talking about.

Imagine this, When I turn my key to ON power is gone (this happens 80% of the times). Sometimes the power will stay on and when I go to ACC (all the lights are on) and right when I try to start, the power goes away (no crank or anything).

To confirm the starter relay, it's the Clutch ACSD blue relay in the main fuse box under the hood?

[w0nderbr3ad]

You can jump that relay with a wire & two male spade connectors to rule out the clutch switch. Sounds like a broken fuse from the engine bay fuse box, or loose connections at the positive/negative terminals.

[1on1]

Youtube wouldn't let me upload this video so I added it to my IG.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BXWdn_jl1zo

Keep in mind, all my connections are good, I swapped out the clutch ACSD relay for another one and I am still having this issue.

[1on1]

Figured out the issue. My breaker or power cable is the issue. My buddy came over and we were able to start my car with a portable battery pack.

I have a 100 amp version of this. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/littelfuse-blister-pack-4152/lighting---electrical-16777/circuit-breaker--universal--17523/circuit-breaker/185150bp/4414463

[w0nderbr3ad]

Same thing happened to me when I wired in a fuse block. I used a cheap circuit breaker and when I pushed down on the chassis, the switch would disengage. Problem went away when I swapped out the breaker for a bussman circuit breaker.

[1on1]

I had this circuit breaker for over 10 years, so I guess it decided to crap out. Thanks again for your guys suggestions.

[Tempo]

Glad it ended up being something minor in the end! stay cruisin' dude!

[!Zar!]

;6218533']Im no mechanic, but It doesnt sound like you have a fuel related issue. Fuel line could be pinched, open to air, or choked with poo...and the motor would still turn over cranking.

I glanced at this thread and completely missed that it was electrical related.

Glad it's fixed now.