S13 SR coolant line delete

[nisileighty]

Hey, I'm doing a coolant line delete on my SR20DET and I'm curious if I can remove this hose https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170420/9b1c3550b9652f5c17b10d6bdedf95cd.jpg
Let me know, thanks!

[Standard]

Yeah that one is not necessary, just take it off, don't even cap off the tubes it connects to.
Coolant lines aren't very important


Haha seriously though? Not sure what response you'd be looking for. If you're just trying to simplify the lines, it should be self explanatory/you should have the knowledge to do so! Replacing those hoses with the manifold off is smart, but why are you trying to "delete" coolant lines? Will you be using a heater core?

[hanzbrady]

Hey I'll try to explain this as easy as possible,

To start, where the two big lines start to turn behind the head you can cut those off flush at the back of the block and loop them (96 V6 Ford Mustang heater hoses have 180* bends that are awesome for this). But that is only if you want to delete your heater.

Secondly all of the various nipples that branch off those main lines go to accessories like the IACV and throttle body, which unless you're trying to start your car in below 0* temperatures don't need coolant so they can go (I welded mine shut).

Those two steps clean up a ton of the clutter, now if you want something even cleaner there's this. https://www.mazworx.com/store/p/92-Mazworx-Water-Neck/Heater-Hose.aspx

With that piece you can completely delete the "loop" that runs under the manifold, I know that we advertise it for the VE swaps, but it actually looks pretty clean on a DET setup as well.

[5280VertDET]

Those two steps clean up a ton of the clutter, now if you want something even cleaner there's this. https://www.mazworx.com/store/p/92-Mazworx-Water-Neck/Heater-Hose.aspx

With that piece you can completely delete the "loop" that runs under the manifold, I know that we advertise it for the VE swaps, but it actually looks pretty clean on a DET setup as well.

You should find some pics of it installed, I can't find much myself.

OP:
Do you want a working heater? Track car or daily?

If daily and heater, you will need a feed and return from the core, also as hanzbrady said, a lot of things come off this mess: IACV, Turbo Coolant, TB, Heater and then get returned back to the system with that line you are holding now.

Also, I would replace EVERY SINGLE HOSE THERE if you are going to keep the OEM setup.

[onehundredoctane]

I referenced this when assembling my SR20DET
http://givemeshred.com/sr20det-coolant-line-simplification/

http://givemeshred.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/givemeshred-s13-sr20det-coolant-line-simplification-2.jpg

[nisileighty]

Yeah that one is not necessary, just take it off, don't even cap off the tubes it connects to.
Coolant lines aren't very important


Haha seriously though? Not sure what response you'd be looking for. If you're just trying to simplify the lines, it should be self explanatory/you should have the knowledge to do so! Replacing those hoses with the manifold off is smart, but why are you trying to "delete" coolant lines? Will you be using a heater core?



Thank you for your input.

[nisileighty]

Hey I'll try to explain this as easy as possible,

To start, where the two big lines start to turn behind the head you can cut those off flush at the back of the block and loop them (96 V6 Ford Mustang heater hoses have 180* bends that are awesome for this). But that is only if you want to delete your heater.

Secondly all of the various nipples that branch off those main lines go to accessories like the IACV and throttle body, which unless you're trying to start your car in below 0* temperatures don't need coolant so they can go (I welded mine shut).

Those two steps clean up a ton of the clutter, now if you want something even cleaner there's this. https://www.mazworx.com/store/p/92-Mazworx-Water-Neck/Heater-Hose.aspx

With that piece you can completely delete the "loop" that runs under the manifold, I know that we advertise it for the VE swaps, but it actually looks pretty clean on a DET setup as well.



Alright, thank you. I won't be needing any of the IACV or throttle body coolant lines being that I rarely see temperatures below 30 where I am. You've been a great help!

[nisileighty]

You should find some pics of it installed, I can't find much myself.



OP:

Do you want a working heater? Track car or daily?



If daily and heater, you will need a feed and return from the core, also as hanzbrady said, a lot of things come off this mess: IACV, Turbo Coolant, TB, Heater and then get returned back to the system with that line you are holding now.



Also, I would replace EVERY SINGLE HOSE THERE if you are going to keep the OEM setup.



My car is a daily. I understand all the hoses I can remove and cap off besides the one I'm holding in the picture.

[skywalkingsilvia]

I referenced this when assembling my SR20DET
http://givemeshred.com/sr20det-coolant-line-simplification/

http://givemeshred.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/givemeshred-s13-sr20det-coolant-line-simplification-2.jpg


This is super clean, and about to loop mine back , but from the hardpipe that goes around the back because of the coolant line to the turbo.

How did you solve for that with this current setup? Thanks!


****edit**** I see in the linked writeup that the coolant from the water neck is how you feed the turbo instead of the lingering hardline with the split.

[5280VertDET]

****edit**** I see in the linked writeup that the coolant from the water neck is how you feed the turbo instead of the lingering hardline with the split.

Should be noted that the coolant from the neck is hot, coming from the OEM source it has been cooled a bit from the radiator. Just an FYI.

[skywalkingsilvia]

So, I took one of the Enjuku S13 conversion heater hoses, and cut it to fit the situation that I'm in: I'm putting a red top SR20 into a Kouki S14, and I already had the engine in before I realized I needed to do this.

I am ok not using the heater, since I live in Texas, and this is not a daily by any means. Also, the previous owner had put plain water in a leaky KA24DE, that resulted in horrendous corrosion everywhere and a pretty tragic headgasket failure with oil and water exploding out the side of the valve cover gasket.


I left the hardlines around the back of the SR, with the coolant to the turbo line intact, and then connected each with a loop. This is shown in the following pictures, with the last one being from the passenger side looking on from where the current heater hose inlet/outlet are in the firewall. The others are from the driver side looking into the back of the SR.

https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/speedhawker1/1.jpg

https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/speedhawker1/2.jpg

https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/speedhawker1/3.jpg

https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/speedhawker1/4.jpg