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View Full Version : AC compressor wiring and custom low pressure line


silvia910
03-10-2017, 02:00 PM
92 s13 / redtop

I'm trying to get my ac all hooked up and I realized that there was no plug or harness to plug into my compressor. I did some searching and realized there should be a single wire plug that comes from the relay box behind the drivers headlight. I look under the box and see that theres a group of wires that has been hacked and taped up. Removed the tape and see this.

http://i65.tinypic.com/33m69fd.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/wb86z6.jpg

To my understanding, it should be the blue w/ green stripe wire that goes from the relay to the compressor. Here, it looks like the blue/green wire coming from the relay is connected to a blue/green wire coming from the rest of the body harness. But then its just cut off, right there are the connection. Are these two wires supposed to be connected together into a single wire that then plugs into the compressor? How should I go about this?

Secondly, I think I need to get a custom low pressure hose made because the service port interferes with my turbo intake. I've read of people bending the hard tube and hose muffler for clearance but that simply isnt working for me. I went to look into getting a custom hose made and he quoted me ~$200, saying there needed to be multiple connections to incorporate the displaced service port. He asked me to find someone with a custom line and bring him back some pictures to see how others have been going about it. Anyone have any suggestions and pictures on best way to go about getting this custom line made? Pictures would be awesome! I've been searching for a couple months now and havent come across any pics of others' custom lines.

silvia910
07-06-2017, 09:17 PM
Still trying to figure this out actually...

codyace
07-07-2017, 05:31 AM
Wiring help:
http://240fsm.com/?p=136 Also shows how to bump up the IACV when AC on to work like 'stock' however most cars have no issue with that anyway.

The blue green/blue green is relay power, that's probably why it's spliced. Once you get those wires traced properly then just use the last wire out of the relay to turn the compressor on.

Another thing to consider (sorry for all the edits) is that if your system is NOT charged then the pressure switch won't allow the system to send power through the relay (or if your system is low or overcharged) So in diagnostics only, take the plug off the pressure switch and 'jump it' (allowing power to go through it) to help diagnose on the relay end. Also make sure that the under dash wiring is right too. Wiring specialities harnesses have this done right, but others may not so follow this (http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-Engine-Harness-Wiring-Diagram-Guide-SR-SR20_t_26.html)



Bending the lower line is what people have done for *years* on that particular stock setup. The lower lines change through the years (despite being the same PN) so every so often there comes a setup that has the one in the way. Changing the intake style does help at times, but some slight heat and 'adjustment' and she's good to go. The redtop/stock setup is the only one with this particular issue and there is no way to make it work without redesigning (which is easy) but ultimately also raising the price of that adapter kit. You then also fight issues with oil pans and sway bars with different mounting kits so I left it be.