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View Full Version : TECHNICAL FLCA MODDING QUESTIONS! (pics and info included)


Thursday7
01-31-2017, 10:21 AM
I want to mod the front LCA's on my S13. I have S14 LCA's on there now, but I bent them pressing the bushings in and I think it is causing my current uneven camber problem.

To replace this I wanted to take my stock S13's and fab up some adjustable heim joints where the bushing would go, as opposed to extending it between the tension rod and ball joint. After reading this guys write up, I found that having the length adjustment before the tension rod will fuck everything up.
To quote from his thread,
" YOU NEED TO EXTEND IT BETWEEN THE BALL JOINT AND THE TENSION ROD MOUNT HOLES IF YOU USE A TENSION ROD THAT BOLTS ONTO THE STOCK LCA POINTS!!! If you don't do this, then as you lengthen your arms it'll also increase your caster and a simple extension can lead to a huge increase. Why this matters is there's not much adjustment for caster in stock arms with a bushing. You'll bind the bushing or your caster will even be so far forward that it just wont work."
found here: http://www.technickslide.com/2015/11/technick-slide-s13-steering-angle-kit.html about 1/6 down the page

Is this true? Is it only possible to have LCA extension in that one spot?

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll300/simplex86/lca_02.jpg

Here is what I want to do.

If the case is that I WILL end up fucking up my alignment/geometry, would I have to put my (now not adjustable) heim joints at the exact same location and length as the stock bushings?

Sorry if this was a mess, I hope you can tell what my dilemma is here. Thanks in advance.

PoorMans180SX
01-31-2017, 11:18 AM
Don't use stock or poly bushing tension rods. Problem solved.

Don't extend them much using the heims. They should only be used for fine tuning.

Also get some camber plates and a real alignment.

Bluejayde
01-31-2017, 11:22 AM
Asking in the Suspension geometry thread might help you out.

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=296725

Thursday7
01-31-2017, 11:40 AM
Don't use stock or poly bushing tension rods. Problem solved.

Don't extend them much using the heims. They should only be used for fine tuning.

Also get some camber plates and a real alignment.

I already have adjustable heim'd tension rods, but even so, would it be alright if I kept the control arm original and made all of the extension in the heim?

racepar1
01-31-2017, 11:56 AM
The front tension rod mounting hole on the LCA needs to be slotted. Even with stock control arms if you go too far on the caster the tension rod binds. I've actually bent a set of Tein's slightly at 8* caster. I wouldn't advise trying to widen the track significantly with the control arms though due to this specific issue.

Thursday7
01-31-2017, 11:59 AM
The front tension rod mounting hole on the LCA needs to be slotted. Even with stock control arms if you go too far on the caster the tension rod binds. I've actually bent a set of Tein's slightly at 8* caster. I wouldn't advise trying to widen the track significantly with the control arms though due to this specific issue.

How does a heim joint bind?

Should I just axe the idea of putting a heim in and do the conventional weld extension? I want to have the adjustability and performance of heims but I guess there's a reason most people stick with the bushing mount.

That being said, which kind of bushing do you guys recommend?

PoorMans180SX
01-31-2017, 12:36 PM
Put a heim there, just don't adjust/extend with it much, if at all. That's what we've both said. Bushings suck.

racepar1
01-31-2017, 03:51 PM
How does a heim joint bind?

Should I just axe the idea of putting a heim in and do the conventional weld extension? I want to have the adjustability and performance of heims but I guess there's a reason most people stick with the bushing mount.

That being said, which kind of bushing do you guys recommend?

The heim isn't binding. When you pull the wheel forward the angle of the lower control arm changes. The angle between the tension rod and the lower control arm does not change. At some point the heim simply doesn't line up with it's mounting point on the tension rod bracket anymore due to the changing angles. Forcing it causes the tension rod to bend slightly right after where it bolts to the lower control arm. Slotting the front tension rod mounting point and loosening it when adjusting caster allows the angle between the control arm and tension rod to change with the changing angle of the lower control arm.

Most people stick with bushings because they're cheap, nothing to do with any binding. A bushing will cause more suspension binding than a heim joint.

The binding you're thinking about isn't the binding I'm talking about.