Rb25 head work questions

[NateMR2]

So just trying to figure out whats necassary to make my goal of 600-650whp block and head are at the machine shop 5 angle vaulve job being done and deck line hone and honeing the block .10 over but what do i need to keep the valves from floating is a s2 rb25

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for 650whp, most of your work will be in the cylinder head and the oiling system, what will be the primary use of the car? Roll Racing, Drag, or Drifting?

[NateMR2]

for 650whp, most of your work will be in the cylinder head and the oiling system, what will be the primary use of the car? Roll Racing, Drag, or Drifting?

I will street it and a little drag on the weekend. Im gonna get the oil drain mod in the back and also a n1 pump. Now tge tuner said 600-650 would be fine on stock head or small cams. Stock springs and lifters i dont want high revs ill be doing a BW S366. E85 1200cc fiveo on cp pistons 9:1 and eagle rods mls hg and arp head studs. The machine shop is doing a port and polish and five angle valve job and block or hone deck and that shit to make the crank straigh. Im debating on doing tomi cams the 260dur 8.5 lift idk if its worth the money or not 520 dollars and 2% gain is not work it to me. I would life drop in cams if i do any i am 5000 in the block clutch and machine already i am not rich im trying to save where i can

[NateMR2]

And please no one bash " oh it cost a lot " " you have to pay to play " i know but im not going to be banging it of the rev limiter at a drift show just a cruiser and a few drag races here and there

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An engine is an Air pump, the more air you move through it the more power it will make. all the rotating assembly has to do is withstand the heat and pressure. CP Pistons and Eagle rods will be more than enough for the power.

Tomei Procams with solid lifters will honestly be the way to go, an S366 is a laggy turbo so you'll want the RPM out of it. My Vote would go

Tomei Pro-Cams Solid Lash Type (270* 10.2mm lift)
Tomei Spring Kit
Supertech Oversized Valves (SS intake, Inconel Exhaust)
Spooled Oil Pump gears & Crank collar.
ARP Heads Studs
ARP Main Studs
N1 Water Pump
Nismo Thermostat
the 1200cc injectors will be almost maxed out at 650whp i would say the ID1350's will be better suited, or if you don't plan to use petrol based fuel (Ethanol only pretty much) the ID1750's will give you more head room for future power upgrades.

once you go solid type i would add the oil orifice restrictor to the front and rear oil feed ports on the cylinder head. get an Adjustable exhaust cam sprocket & a Greddy Timing belt.

I always advocate customers to put most of their money on reliability mods and getting the head to flow. the strongest bottom end in the world will not make the car much fun if the head can't keep up. with how big the S366 is you will have loads more fun with bigger cams (trust me, RB at 8500-9K RPM IS WAY FUN) the S366 more than likely won't come on until around 5K RPM so you'll want cams that can breathe up in the RPM Range. Even if you downsized to an S362FMW i would say go with solid lifters and pro-cams. just based on the turbo you are using a nice cam and valve train upgrade will make the car much more fun to drive. the factory valve train will make it feel super peaky. it'll come in late then the cams will fall off early.

we can help you with a package deal on all teh parts too if you need. let me know!

[NateMR2]

An engine is an Air pump, the more air you move through it the more power it will make. all the rotating assembly has to do is withstand the heat and pressure. CP Pistons and Eagle rods will be more than enough for the power.

Tomei Procams with solid lifters will honestly be the way to go, an S366 is a laggy turbo so you'll want the RPM out of it. My Vote would go

Tomei Pro-Cams Solid Lash Type (270* 10.2mm lift)
Tomei Spring Kit
Supertech Oversized Valves (SS intake, Inconel Exhaust)
Spooled Oil Pump gears & Crank collar.
ARP Heads Studs
ARP Main Studs
N1 Water Pump
Nismo Thermostat
the 1200cc injectors will be almost maxed out at 650whp i would say the ID1350's will be better suited, or if you don't plan to use petrol based fuel (Ethanol only pretty much) the ID1750's will give you more head room for future power upgrades.

once you go solid type i would add the oil orifice restrictor to the front and rear oil feed ports on the cylinder head. get an Adjustable exhaust cam sprocket & a Greddy Timing belt.

I always advocate customers to put most of their money on reliability mods and getting the head to flow. the strongest bottom end in the world will not make the car much fun if the head can't keep up. with how big the S366 is you will have loads more fun with bigger cams (trust me, RB at 8500-9K RPM IS WAY FUN) the S366 more than likely won't come on until around 5K RPM so you'll want cams that can breathe up in the RPM Range. Even if you downsized to an S362FMW i would say go with solid lifters and pro-cams. just based on the turbo you are using a nice cam and valve train upgrade will make the car much more fun to drive. the factory valve train will make it feel super peaky. it'll come in late then the cams will fall off early.

we can help you with a package deal on all teh parts too if you need. let me know!
I pmed you

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PM replied good sir!

[supersayianjim]

so I'm looking at the same kind of build the op posted cept I want 264 cams, stock lifters and stock springs. also I want to get an exhaust/intake port job also.