View Full Version : s13 clutch pedal inhibitor switch bypass
spools420a
09-10-2016, 02:42 PM
Hello zilvia I know you will say search but my scenario is a little different,I have a intermediate no start which I thought I had fixed by replacing the ignition switch,but turns out I didn't and since I cant replicate this no start all the time its kinda difficult to find.Tomarrow I plan on doing a voltage drop and pinpointing the problem but I think its the clutch pedal relay that makes it so you must press clutch to start car.The problem is I have no blue inhibitor relay at all or any clutch related relays and the clutch switch has already been bypassed so the previous owner ran wires god knows where this is why I need help.
So what I want to do is bypass the whole interlock relay and clutch switch and run a wire straight from the back of the ignition switch starter wire to the starter signal on the starter.Doing this I have read people say to just do this but you would think I would need to run another relay at least?Then I read the solenoid does not need a relay because the solenoid acts like a relay?And just run wire straight to it...also will this bypass the original fuse or will I need to add a in line fuse?Thats all I just want to be sure thanks.
spools420a
09-11-2016, 08:34 AM
bump......
brndck
09-11-2016, 09:51 AM
The problem is I have no blue inhibitor relay at all or any clutch related relays and the clutch switch has already been bypassed so the previous owner ran wires god knows where this is why I need help.
So what I want to do is bypass the whole interlock relay and clutch switch and run a wire straight from the back of the ignition switch starter wire to the starter signal on the starter.
i'm confused. you say you dont have a blue relay at all, but then you say you wanna bypass the blue relay? you said the previous owner jumpered the clutch pedal switch, but now you are gonna jumper the switch?
you need to do some digging, figure out exactly what wiring the car DOES have, and then start doing some testing. when you turn the key to the crank position, do you have voltage at the starter? if not, why not?
spools420a
09-11-2016, 02:48 PM
i'm confused. you say you dont have a blue relay at all, but then you say you wanna bypass the blue relay? you said the previous owner jumpered the clutch pedal switch, but now you are gonna jumper the switch?
you need to do some digging, figure out exactly what wiring the car DOES have, and then start doing some testing. when you turn the key to the crank position, do you have voltage at the starter? if not, why not? It has no blue relay but I have no ideas where the wires all run because as I trace them they go into the wiring harness so there could be a separate relay somewhere but no clutch interlock relay by the battery like almost every single s13?This is not as easy as looking at a wire schematic and following that who knows what they did to wire it so I'm rewiring that part of it that normally should have the clutch relay and clutch switch
Sorry to confuse what I'm saying is I want to bypass all this unknown part that should be relay and clutch switch and run a wire from ignition start straight to starter solenoid via signal wire just not sure if I need to add a new relay when I do this?Sorry to confuse you.
jedi03
09-11-2016, 06:16 PM
crank no start? no crank no start?
cotbu
09-11-2016, 06:37 PM
If you're adding a new circuit, be it for convenience, or just getting rid of the old wiring. You should incorporate relays and fuses. Track only well that's different. All 12v sources get a fuse, you don't need a relay to trigger 12v to 12v but If this was a push button start option, I would use a koeo 5v (lower than battery) source to allow triggering of the starter.
spools420a
10-02-2016, 08:18 PM
If you're adding a new circuit, be it for convenience, or just getting rid of the old wiring. You should incorporate relays and fuses. Track only well that's different. All 12v sources get a fuse, you don't need a relay to trigger 12v to 12v but If this was a push button start option, I would use a koeo 5v (lower than battery) source to allow triggering of the starter.
I read numerous people bypassing this relay and not replacing it because it notoriouslly goes bad,Then another person said the solenoid acts like a relay in a sense so with so many people bypassing and not replacing I'm not sure if I need it?For instance take headlights as example with headlights the switch sees constant voltage as long as the lights are on so a relay is needed or the switch will burn up but with the starter its just a few seconds of load and I think this is why they don't add a relay?
cotbu
10-03-2016, 03:25 AM
I thought I covered that pretty well. If you want to make a proper circuit it needs these things for protection. Will it work without them yes. You could even wire redundancies like the oem. That relay doesn't control the starter like you think it's part of the redundant wiring, just like the clutch pedal switch.
So wire it how you want!
thegr8one013
10-03-2016, 06:43 AM
That relay is by the intake
k00laid83
10-03-2016, 05:30 PM
Are you talking about the clutch safety switch that's on the actual clutch pedal? What I did was actually splice that plug together to get to eliminate that switch. You can go a little further and hook it up to another switch kind of like a kill switch of sorts. What I do is use a push button switch to allow for the car to crank. Hopefully this helps.
spools420a
10-23-2016, 02:21 PM
the new relay is wired in all is good but something odd happened a few times today,when turning the key "off" completely the starter engages for a second making the grinding sound then shuts off? I think the few times I started it without the relay a few weeks back did indeed damage the ignition switch why else would random power go to the starter when turning off key and this does not happen every time...Also is this relay sufficient enough for the starter amp draw?its a ebay special 12v dc 30a/40a relay? http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/akoAAOSwvzRX0aRA/s-l500.jpg
anti tyler
10-23-2016, 03:04 PM
Can I ask why you'd buy/use an eBay relay when 4/5 prong 30/40A relays are sold almost everywhere?
Are you aware of how a relay operates with the pole and coil inside?
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