View Full Version : ECU codes 13 and 34
Domo757
08-10-2016, 04:50 PM
Could code 13, coolant temp sensor, cause code 34, knock sensor? I was wondering because i heard the knock sensor rarely goes out
racepar1
08-10-2016, 07:50 PM
We are talking about a KA right?
Knock sensors are quite commonly bad as the cars are 23-27 years old now. I've always replaced them on any 240 I worked on at any time it was convenient, with or without a code, and absolutely ALWAYS before I swapped a motor in. They're expensive as hell from the dealer too. DO NOT get ANYTHING other than an OE Nissan knock sensor EVER! I don't fucking care how expensive it is. The aftermarket ones are complete crap and they're a TOTAL PITA to get to.
As for the coolant temp sensor code, also very common. The temp sensors go bad and the connectors get all corroded and need to be replaced.
Domo757
08-10-2016, 09:44 PM
We are talking about a KA right?
Knock sensors are quite commonly bad as the cars are 23-27 years old now. I've always replaced them on any 240 I worked on at any time it was convenient, with or without a code, and absolutely ALWAYS before I swapped a motor in. They're expensive as hell from the dealer too. DO NOT get ANYTHING other than an OE Nissan knock sensor EVER! I don't fucking care how expensive it is. The aftermarket ones are complete crap and they're a TOTAL PITA to get to.
As for the coolant temp sensor code, also very common. The temp sensors go bad and the connectors get all corroded and need to be replaced.
Would they both cause a CEL? And yes its a KA24DE
racepar1
08-11-2016, 12:51 AM
Would they both cause a CEL? And yes its a KA24DE
Yes, they would both cause a check engine light.
Domo757
08-11-2016, 05:36 AM
yes, they would both cause a check engine light.
$286!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jesus!!!!!!!!!!!!!
TheRealSy90
08-11-2016, 11:57 AM
That's how much knock sensors are from the dealership? Screw that...
Domo757
08-11-2016, 12:26 PM
That's how much knock sensors are from the dealership? Screw that...
Yes i left and went to autozone and payed $100
TheRealSy90
08-11-2016, 01:39 PM
Hopefully that knock sensor is good lol. I still need to replace mine.
Domo757
08-11-2016, 04:59 PM
GET THE KNOCK SENSOR FROM ENJUKU RACING!!!!!! I went to autozone and bought a knocm sensor for $106 because it was $286 at the dealership. So after hours of struggling with removing the old and installing the new i decided to go on enjuku racing just to see what i will buy next. Then i ran across the OE knock sensor for $39. Im beyond pissed
TheRealSy90
08-11-2016, 05:09 PM
Isn't the one on Enjuku an ISR (Isis) "OE Replacement"? Not exactly oem Nissan.
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racepar1
08-12-2016, 06:44 PM
LOL! You guys are all dumbasses!!! I was thinking about telling you to search around online for an OE one from an aftermarket source, but learning the hard way is more fun. I used to get them for $30 from a local warehouse, sell em for $100 and everyone's happy. Be a little more resourceful next time. You can find OE parts from non-OE sources for much less. I recommend you return that vatozone crap. As I said, it is EXTREMELY difficult to get to and you don't want to learn the REALLY hard way and have to do it twice. With electrical parts like that don't fuck around, OE or aftermarket from the actual OE manufacturer or another TRUSTED OE manufacturer. If you aren't knowledgeable enough to make that distinction then go with OE ONLY.
TheRealSy90
08-12-2016, 06:56 PM
How to you distinguish between an OE Manufacturer, a "trusted or manufacturer", and an Autozone OE replacement part? Or an Isis/ISR Oe replacement? Please explain because they all are going to look EXACTLY the same outside of the packaging.
You say buy oe only, but then say that non-Oe sources are okay. Who knows if those are genuine...
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Domo757
08-12-2016, 07:38 PM
How to you distinguish between an OE Manufacturer, a "trusted or manufacturer", and an Autozone OE replacement part? Or an Isis/ISR Oe replacement? Please explain because they all are going to look EXACTLY the same outside of the packaging.
You say buy oe only, but then say that non-Oe sources are okay. Who knows if those are genuine...
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idk thats why i bought the one from autozone and it works fine. The code went away so i dont care
KAT-PWR
08-12-2016, 08:01 PM
LOL! You guys are all dumbasses!!! I was thinking about telling you to search around online for an OE one from an aftermarket source, but learning the hard way is more fun. I used to get them for $30 from a local warehouse, sell em for $100 and everyone's happy. Be a little more resourceful next time. You can find OE parts from non-OE sources for much less. I recommend you return that vatozone crap. As I said, it is EXTREMELY difficult to get to and you don't want to learn the REALLY hard way and have to do it twice. With electrical parts like that don't fuck around, OE or aftermarket from the actual OE manufacturer or another TRUSTED OE manufacturer. If you aren't knowledgeable enough to make that distinction then go with OE ONLY.
You're going senile man.
Domo757
08-12-2016, 08:54 PM
I mean if its that seriousto you then you can buy it for me next time. Sounds good?
Domo757
08-12-2016, 08:55 PM
Racepar1 said buy the OE ONLY
racepar1
08-13-2016, 02:08 PM
How to you distinguish between an OE Manufacturer, a "trusted or manufacturer", and an Autozone OE replacement part? Or an Isis/ISR Oe replacement? Please explain because they all are going to look EXACTLY the same outside of the packaging.
You say buy oe only, but then say that non-Oe sources are okay. Who knows if those are genuine...
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Experience...
Work on hundreds of nissans for years and years, you'll start to recognize the brands. You've never looked to see who the OE manufacturer was on any of the stock 240 parts you've handled? If you pay truly close attention you can actually see the difference between a quality part and cheap ass shit too. The casting quality and detail is higher, the finish work is better, they just look nicer if you pay attention. Of course, attention to detail isn't really a common theme in the 240sx community.
It is extremely difficult to just know what aftermarket brands you can trust, and which ones are actually the OE part in a different box. Hitachi, Denso, Koyo, Timken, Aisin, etc... are all OE manufacturers that sell the same parts in a different box for less. I used to get Aisin water pumps for Toyotas and you could actually see where the Toyota emblem was ground off the pump. The point is to be more thoughtful, resourceful, and patient when you're purchasing parts. You can get good parts on the cheap, you've just gotta work for it a little. Duralast is not something you should trust in an electrical part, or really any other part for that matter. They're purchased from the lowest bidder and re-boxed for mass re-sale.
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