Realistic daily driver swap

[Whodats14]

Hey all, new here, first post. Hoping you guys can help me solve my dilemma, my ka is showing signs of a blown hg at 140k, cp test shows 120, 160, 160, 160 and overheats.

I want to do a realistic daily driver worthy "build" to it. My goal at the wheels is a moderate 200-250 and I want all the bells and whistles to remain (ac, cruise, ect...), while staying within a 3k budget.

My ideas point towards ka-t, vh, rb2x, xjz, but would like to avoid sr20 because there's plenty of those around here and I'm different.

I can fabricate, I have access to brideports, lathes, mig and rig welders, a whole machine shop really. I'm not scared to rebuild anything as I rebuilt late model crate engines for a few years.

So what would you guys recommend? What tips and tricks do you have? Or what kind of full swaps are for sale out there that are turn key?

[bmaddock]

That 3k budget will be your bottleneck for bigger engine swaps. If your goal is 200-250 with all accessories, KA-T would be perfect. T28 bottom mount will meet all your expectations and can be done for cheap.

[CamryOnBronze]

would like to avoid sr20 because there's plenty of those around here and I'm different.

An SR20 swap would probably be considered different these days based on all of the JZ/LS/RB S13 builds running around (or sitting in garages I guess, haha.)

KA-T would definitely be the easiest route based on your desire to keep everything factory still working including cruise control. I know there are ways to make the cruise work on other swaps though, you just don't see it done too often.

[KAT-PWR]

With your budget
KA-t

[brndck]

fresh head gasket, new crank bearings, s15 t28 and s15 injectors, new fuel pump, rom tune.

/thread

[2muchboost]

Agree with the above. Your $3k budget will be the restriction for your goals if you wanted to swap in another setup. I would freshen up the KA and add boost. You have mild power goals which the KA can achieve for rather cheap and still remain reliable.

[STEEZxIT]

if i still had my ka, i'd supercharge it.

[Highway Riding]

For a DD a non oem boosted car can be a stinky PITA. with that said KA and boost her. lol GL

[chris_240sx]

Take that 3k and buy a Civic/Corolla for a DD. Then worry about your s chassis.

[Whodats14]

Thanks for the swift replys fellas, sorry I'm a slow responder, currently at work.

So where to start,

Fresh hg, fresh oem? Or mls, tomei ect,..

On the ka rebuild should I look for a used set of forged rotating assembly? Or can I trust the oem rod and piston setup? I do have a old sunnen rod checker to check straightness.

Supercharged, idk, price on that setup?

I 3 have cars, including a civic lol. Selling the civic for a truck though to pull my BMW to the track and back. So it can be down from time to time no problem (BMW will remain road legal)

And I was also concerned about non oem boosted engine daily blah blah, but we can do it better than oem right? :naughty:

As for tuning, I will be doing it myself, experienced in Neptune, and megasquirt, but will be doing nistune on this car more than likely.

[silviaks2nr]

If your current engine is tired and shows low compression, it's going to need rings and a hone (maybe bore) in which case you may as well do pistons and rods. You have a lifting head under load (warped) not BHG. BHG would mean oil in coolant and the other way around, and super low compression.

JMO, I'd grab another known good KA and do a 370cc/n60 with a small turbo + headgasket + studs + rom tune

Nothing else really fits your budget, honestly a ka-t doesn't really either. A good clutch is $500 right there.

[simmode1]

Take that 3k and buy a Civic/Corolla for a DD. Then worry about your s chassis.
This. $3000 for any swap or KA-T done right is pretty far fetched, IMO.

Though I might suggest a 2nd vehicle with more utility. For $3k, I went with a 5spd Element as the new daily.

Now free to take time doing the 240 right with a real budget.

[dorkidori_s13]

...but would like to avoid sr20 because there's plenty of those around here and I'm different.

youre avoiding a great motor that, in daily driver form, is bullet proof because... you wanna be different :picardfp:


get a good compression SR20det, spend the time and money to do the swap correctly and you WILL be different... making the effort to properly do things is what separates the minority of cleanly swapped s-chassis from the majority of shit boxes running around in current times.

a redtop swap with an S15 SpecR turbo, basic bolt ons and a boost controller set to 12psi on that S15 turbo mentioned easily puts 200+whp to the ground! and its reliable as well. i was daily driving my S13 for damn near 5 years with zero problems (just keep it maintained like a normal car). it now lives in the garage and i have a daily driven Mazda Protege5.

[tuzzio]

KA-T.

T28 or the t3/t4 .48ar turbo the ka-t guys love.

[chris_240sx]

get a good compression SR20det, spend the time and money to do the swap correctly and you WILL be different...

Agreed, but he has a budget of 3k. To do it right, he would go over by quite a bit.

Since you already have a DD, do what someone before me said: Find a good KA for sale and buy it. Do a headgasket/head studs and the 370/N60/T28/Rom tune thing. KA-T's will do over 200whp easy, even on small T28's.

[Ramonesfreak2010]

SR20 with AC is amazing.

[Whodats14]

So really, my options for keeping ac and cc would be ka-t or sr20 because it is basically a factory upgrade to the s chassis.

Reliability is key to me as I would love to be able to drive around worry free... And I'm starting to feel like a regular ol sr20 swap is the way I need to go because they are so reliable. I just hate the fact that they are somewhat difficult to get parts for.

I do like the torque provided by the ka-t however.

Now, that aside. If perhaps I could make my budget 4k, rather than 3, what would my options look like?

Side note, as I failed to previously state, my car is a 96 obd2, and I know that causes difficulty tuning, and likely swapping.

[dorkidori_s13]

SR20s are easier than shit to get parts for... its not 2002 anymore man. West Coast has FRSport, East Coast has Enjuku and Z1 Motorsports. Ive never had a single issue getting any maintenance part ive needed for my SR since the early 2000s when i started building these cars, even then it wasnt THAT difficult if you knew which shops to call.

uh, there are no difficulties in tuning OBD2 S14s. just get rid of the OE ECU and stick an AEM or PowerFC DJetro in the car and your golden! dont waste your money on bullshit piggy back systems or ROM tunes... its 2016, there are TONS of options out there!

[tuzzio]

East Coast has Enjuku and Z1 Motorsports.

And our homies at 240sxmotoring

[KAT-PWR]

KA24DE
Forged Low Comp Pistons (OVERBORE OVERBORE OVERBORE NO EXCEPTION)
Stock rods
ARP Head studs
Felpro gasket kit (I think like $75 for the HG and whole kit which includes valve stem seals)
New bearings

Turbo
HY35 holset
Top mount manifold from me
Enthalpy tune
550cc injectors
eBay FMIC

Up to 325-350ish hp

Done.

[Matej]

Well, a near-stock SR20DET easily makes the power you seek, and it came in the S-chassis from the factory, and hundreds of thousands of people around the world daily drove various vehicles that came with the SR20DET, and plenty still do.
Too bad you need to be different from all the other Indiana boys.

[dorkidori_s13]

Well, a near-stock SR20DET easily makes the power you seek, and it came in the S-chassis from the factory, and hundreds of thousands of people around the world daily drove various vehicles that came with the SR20DET, and plenty still do.
Too bad you need to be different from all the other Indiana boys.

Matej... we already went over this. :kiss:

[Hoffman5982]

"I want to be different"

Names very common swaps.

Ka-t is your only option with your budget. If you get an sr swappreciate, that's all you'll get. You won't have the money for a nice WS harness, new water pump/tstat/gaskets/clutch/radiator/etc. If you do decide to up your budget for an sr, get a notchtop. These days they are only $1-200 more than a red top and the vtc and bigger turbo make it more than worth it. Cody Ace brackets for AC and snag a Fwd sr throttle body off a g20 at the junkyard for the extra throttle pulley for cruise. Cruise control was about the easiest thing to get going on my swap, I'll never understand why no one else really does it.

[Hoffman5982]

If you really want to be different swap a beams in

[lunchmeat]

Nah, 4bt Cummins.

As others have said, ka-t.

[accoupe]

I say do a 1uz swap! For what you want you will be happy and if you fabricate I think you could stay close to that budget. I love my 1uz swap with the 6 speed z trans. I got my engine and harness for under 500 and the z trans for 250.

[RHD*bro]

Sentra with a gtir swap bamm perfect daily

[Matej]

Nah, 4bt Cummins.
OM606. The 2JZ of diesels.
http://media.mbturbo.com/2014/08/MG_7480.jpg

[FaLKoN240]

Different requires custom and custom requires money.

[cotbu]

How about we stop catering to people that ask question like this. Really! Do your own research and start your own projects, getting help with a project is a different story there's go fund me for that I guess.
Realistic daily driver swap, is a statement. That somehow, comes off as a question.

[Whodats14]

Really like the idea of 1uz with a cd trans! We're you able to do a.c. or cruise? Or could you if you tried?

Custom doesn't always require money, sometimes custom can be created on your own for the price of scrap metal. Custom can be the 1 guy out of 1000 who has the ability to think outside the box and create his ideas. Maybe read my original post over again... Access to WHOLE MACHINE SHOP, and can tig and mig weld with access to both.

And for cotbu, how about you stop acting like all the guys in the Honda game, 240 people are supposed to be better than that. I was seeking information, and we are making so much progress by being productive. You don't have to be so hateful just because you don't interpret things like the rest of the kind people here.

[2muchboost]

The 1UZ is a fun swap but the only people that I know of that offer an "off the shelf" solution for AC is XAT Racing....and they wont sell the setup without having them complete the swap. However if you can figure it out (i have ZERO knowledge about the details) then that would be a fun option. And if you do figure it out....feel free to share the AC related info since I have looked everywhere.

I have access to a 1UZ swap locally but the only thing holding me back is the thought of having a shop have to figure out the AC setup for me and the cost associated.

[Whodats14]

Well maybe with the help from others on this thread we can find a solution for 1uz swapped s14 a.c. what exactly is the issue? Is it mounting everything? Room? Wiring? What's a good price to pay for a 1uz?

[2muchboost]

I think I asked a while ago and not many people had info. I am going to assume most people dont care to swap in AC but with this nice TX heat its a must for any swap for me. I think it was more so as to what components needed to be pieced together. I am sure a simple custom bracket is needed for the compressor as is the case with most swaps.

[Jorgs_7]

Do you have time constraints?
Max dollar budget? ($3,000 lol k)
HP goal?
Have you done any swaps before?
Do you have electrical experience?

Lets be real, you could buy a full SIKKY swap LS1 kit,

Stock ECU, T56, just an intake, pre-made harness, quiet exhaust and DD the shit out of that.

Anything is possible, but you'll always come back to the almighty dollar, unless you're loaded. If so, kudos and go for it.

You want an AC'd 1UZ turn key, quiet DD swap? Open your wallet and quit ignoring all the people that have done this shit several times.

"Cheap, Fast and Reliable. Pick two"

My opinion on the most reliable DD swap? KA-T

[BossHogg]

Nah, 4bt Cummins.

As others have said, ka-t.

this. That is different. Every other engine mentioned is not different. To be honest, the ka-t would be the most different. By different I mean less common lol. It's to the point now, where it seems just having a 4 cylinder is different hahaha. At least around here.

[Whodats14]

Jorgs, don't be ignorant. A lot can be done on a 3k budget. Time isn't an issue, it's just a personal car, and I have 2 other running cars i drive everyday while working on this one. Swapped plenty of cars, have plenty of experience both mechanical and electrical, which you could have figured out if you read the thread, as well as hp goal.

Who said quiet? And why is that even a big deal? Mufflers are cheap.

Turn key pertained to people selling swaps, as I've seen plenty go for 3k for a turn key.

Who am I ignoring? Please tell me who's done a.c. 1uz plenty of times, as far as I've gathered not many.

So unless you want to be productive, you can take your ignorant comments elsewhere, the Honda guys would enjoy your company.

Lol boss, 4bt has been done in an s13! And it's unrealistic, and out of my budget. There's only so many 240s in my area, but each is there own flavor, we have a ka-t, a couple sr20, a rb20, and a 2I. I'm trying to be different from these guys, not from the world... Well maybe from the world too. Can only reinvent the wheel so much.

[Jorgs_7]

Jorgs, don't be ignorant. A lot can be done on a 3k budget.

Turn key pertained to people selling swaps, as I've seen plenty go for 3k for a turn key.

Ebay turbo's, haggard set ups and sub-300 BHP is where 3k will land you in a swap.

I'm not being ignorant. I've seen and done numerous swaps. Maybe my standard of work is above par.

[KAT-PWR]

Ebay turbo's, haggard set ups and sub-300 BHP is where 3k will land you in a swap.

I'm not being ignorant. I've seen and done numerous swaps. Maybe my standard of work is above par.


Not really....

It just means you will be doing all the work.

[BoostyMcZface]

hell, a nice quality turbo is gonna run you over a grand to begin with. I'm saying go v8. throw a VK in it or something. THATS different.

N/A for reliable daily.. unless you can fork out the cash when you blow something up or need to tow it home cause you blew an oil fitting or something. go find a junkyard 4.8 or 5.3 chevy motor and whatever trans you want, fab everything yourself, and throw a cam at it. little fuel, little wiring, maybe a lower gear ratio in the back, and go beat it to death. get everything used off ls1tech or some shit.

3k budget for reliable daily.. bump it to 5k and build something worth it. I see so many builds that if they just took the time to save a little longer for that extra grand or two, it would make everything so much better. so much more respectable. but cheap parts, and replica this, ebay that.. that's Honda world stuff man

[Whodats14]

So i did some researching and shopping around last night. I gathered a bunch of part numbers and so far have a list including.

BC rods - 437.41
Supertech pistons 8.6:1cp 89.5mm (with rings) - 515.33
ACT Clutch and PP rated at 333 tq, organic type so should be comfortable for dd - 386
ARP head studs + Cometic HG 90mm - 185.95
ACL rod bearings(will find size after crank is polished and micd) - 12.09
ACL main bearings - 28.49
Rear main seal - 24.50
Oil pmp gear - 37.88
FelPro gasket kit - 121.83
Pilot bushing - 4.93
MLS exhaust gasket - 25.47
Tsubaki timing set - 194.11

Total directly from FRSport - 1973.99

However, through the shop i get discounts on many of these parts including rods, pistons, clutch kit, bearings, and gasket set for sure, and its usually around 30% off.

So I imagine the total will be closer to 1500 or 1600.

Any thing else i should look into for the engine rebuild? I think this covers most of the engine building costs. I can always build the head later if i crave power. All of my machine work is free as i do it all myself. Will be decking head and block(with timing cover to match). Will bore and hone block to match pistons (probably wont buy pistons until i am certain bores are straight at .020 over, should be but you never know, may have to go .040).

Also i will disassemble the head and check all valves for straightness, as well as touch up the valve faces and will probably do a sweet valve job just because. would you guys recommend valve springs at 140k? I believe they will be fine as I am not raising the limiter or anything, and not installing new cams.

So with the list I have set out for building this KA, is there anything you guys see that i need to add to the list?

Search isnt really telling me if there is anything i specifically need to watch out for.

Thanks for the help thus far guys. After i get the engine stuff sorted out and budgeted, we can move on to things pertaining to the turbo setup, cooling, tuning, chassis, and so on :2f2f:

[KAT-PWR]

Don't use a cometic head gasket
Don't use an MLS exhaust gasket

You bore a block WITH the Pistons, not before. That's how you set piston/wall clearance.

Felpro entire gasket kit (including HG) from advanced is like $75 with their coupon


With that build list you went from "I want around 300hp daily driver" to "I wanna shoot for 500's"

[Whodats14]

No, you HONE a block with pistons, because honing also takes material.

Thanks for the hg tip, I have heard bad news on the cometic/mls, I'm sure it's because people aren't decking their blocks, either at all or the right way. Will the felpro unit be safe if I did want to turn up a bit? Say 300/350whp?

My thing is room for comfort, I dont want to worry about a rod bending, ever at my power goals. I'd feel uneasy rocking around 350bhp on stock rods.

So my take on it is, may as well do it if I'm going to be in there... Do it once not twice right?

[silviaks2nr]

You need to take the engine apart before you can determine whether you can get away with a hone or you need to bore. Then you can decide which size pistons/rings to go with. I'd do CP pistons w/ eagle rods for about the same price but better quality IMO

[KAT-PWR]

No, you HONE a block with pistons, because honing also takes material.

Thanks for the hg tip, I have heard bad news on the cometic/mls, I'm sure it's because people aren't decking their blocks, either at all or the right way. Will the felpro unit be safe if I did want to turn up a bit? Say 300/350whp?

My thing is room for comfort, I dont want to worry about a rod bending, ever at my power goals. I'd feel uneasy rocking around 350bhp on stock rods.

So my take on it is, may as well do it if I'm going to be in there... Do it once not twice right?

I've been rocking 400 on stock rods and a felpro with no concerns. 400-450wtq is what I understand to be the safe limit for stock rods. When I get my retune I plan to stop when I hit 400wtq and see how much longer it'll last.
There is nothing wrong with overbuilding it, your post just lead me to believe you wanted a cheaper 300hp car without having to buy a tons of shit and not do a ton of work.
Get 264 cams for sure, that really wakes up a turbo KA

I'd highly recommend you do some research on the KA-t board if you're serious about ka-t

People have been doing 600's on felpros....

[cotbu]

This is bullshit, since when do you tell a machinist how to machine a block for pistons?
The numbers don't match!

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

[Hoffman5982]

I've been rocking 400 on stock rods and a felpro with no concerns. 400-450wtq is what I understand to be the safe limit for stock rods. When I get my retune I plan to stop when I hit 400wtq and see how much longer it'll last.
There is nothing wrong with overbuilding it, your post just lead me to believe you wanted a cheaper 300hp car without having to buy a tons of shit and not do a ton of work.
Get 264 cams for sure, that really wakes up a turbo KA

I'd highly recommend you do some research on the KA-t board if you're serious about ka-t

People have been doing 600's on felpros....

How much do you beat on your setup? I'm planning to do a small t25/28 setup and shoot for around 250whp, my only concern is since I'll be drifting it, how long will it last. This $60 motor has gotten me through 3 years of drifting so far and it has never let me down, so I'm very confident in it, but a little reassurance never hurts.

Also, to add to this, I too have heard of a lot of people use felpro hg's. From my understanding it acts as a safeguard in the case of detonation and what not. You'd rather a blown head gasket than fudged up pistons

[KAT-PWR]

How much do you beat on your setup? I'm planning to do a small t25/28 setup and shoot for around 250whp, my only concern is since I'll be drifting it, how long will it last. This $60 motor has gotten me through 3 years of drifting so far and it has never let me down, so I'm very confident in it, but a little reassurance never hurts.

Also, to add to this, I too have heard of a lot of people use felpro hg's. From my understanding it acts as a safeguard in the case of detonation and what not. You'd rather a blown head gasket than fudged up pistons

FWIW, I daily drove the car for about 2 or so years and I was never gentle. Raced a fair amount of cars. This was around 325whp. Then the car came off the street, re-vamped, did two separate dyno days with the last being 400hp. Just recently did a drift event and it was probably 95*. I drifted, let my friend who is a much more competent driver drift it. Still ticking. The engine has now put 3 eBay turbos to rest as they all lived on 20psi which I don't think they cared for.

[Whodats14]

So I've done more shopping and comparing.

I've found eagle rods for 328.88

But I've also found Manley rods for 359.99

From what I've seen experience wise is yes eagle is good, but Manley is usually superior, so unless the ka line of Manley rods is flawed, I'll likely get them.

I've been hunting down cp pistons, but the lowest cp they offer is 9:1. I'd really like to get lower like the supertech offer (8.6:1 at 89.5mm) so any help there finding a better piston manufacturer would be greatly appreciated.

I've been seeing a lot of turbo talk, my ideas on mine is not an eBay, that's for sure. But rather something in the td04/5 range, or 16g, something oem. I've rebuilt a few garretts so I'll just rebuild an oem one that will suit my needs after we see what way I go on the engine build.

[Ratpack_Chad]

Felpro HG, t25, 370 injectors, fuel pump and a rom tune will put out around 260whp with a KA and it will be the most responsive setup you could have ever asked for.

[Jorgs_7]

hell, a nice quality turbo is gonna run you over a grand to begin with.

3k budget for reliable daily.. bump it to 5k and build something worth it. I see so many builds that if they just took the time to save a little longer for that extra grand or two, it would make everything so much better. so much more respectable. but cheap parts, and replica this, ebay that.. that's Honda world stuff man

Thank you, atleast someone understands what I was saying.

[silviaks2nr]

So I've done more shopping and comparing.

I've found eagle rods for 328.88

But I've also found Manley rods for 359.99

From what I've seen experience wise is yes eagle is good, but Manley is usually superior, so unless the ka line of Manley rods is flawed, I'll likely get them.

I've been hunting down cp pistons, but the lowest cp they offer is 9:1. I'd really like to get lower like the supertech offer (8.6:1 at 89.5mm) so any help there finding a better piston manufacturer would be greatly appreciated.

I've been seeing a lot of turbo talk, my ideas on mine is not an eBay, that's for sure. But rather something in the td04/5 range, or 16g, something oem. I've rebuilt a few garretts so I'll just rebuild an oem one that will suit my needs after we see what way I go on the engine build.

Why would you want lower compression than that? out of boost it will have no power and then the powerband will really blow with that turbo.

Felpro HG, t25, 370 injectors, fuel pump and a rom tune will put out around 260whp with a KA and it will be the most responsive setup you could have ever asked for.

it's such a lame inefficient setup. Been there in 2005 and I thought everyone left that behind. With a KA do it once and do it right especially if you're building the motor as the OP is now talking about.

[KAT-PWR]

Why would you want lower compression than that? out of boost it will have no power and then the powerband will really blow with that turbo.

it's such a lame inefficient setup. Been there in 2005 and I thought everyone left that behind. With a KA do it once and do it right especially if you're building the motor as the OP is now talking about.

My dyno says otherwise. I'm 8.6:1 with a bigger turbo and my car is certainly not sluggish.

Lower compression offers more protection. I have a theory that people detonate KA's because there is no IAT sensor to adjust timing (super important here in florida) Obviously when rom tuned/non stand alone

Lower compression helps with knock resistance with variance in gasoline, temperature, etc. I'm no mechanical engineer but if you look at most factory turbocharged engines of the era they're in the sub 9 compression ratios.
EVO- 8.8:1
STI- 8.2:1
SR- 8.5:1
DSM- 7.2 or 8.5
They must be on to something expecting these engines to go 100,000+ miles boosted

[silviaks2nr]

Curious what your "bigger turbo" is.

I have 9:1 compression and off boost it's very uninspiring. My tuner threw a lot of timing at it too.

Factory stuff is way too safe and those examples have heatsoaking intercoolers, tiny turbos with good flowing heads of course they want low compression. They have to be sold in all sorts of climates and where only low octane is available. If the car is well tuned compression shouldn't matter. There's plenty of high compression street cars running on 91 or 93 or ethanol no problems.

[KAT-PWR]

Curious what your "bigger turbo" is.

I have 9:1 compression and off boost it's very uninspiring. My tuner threw a lot of timing at it too.

Factory stuff is way too safe and those examples have heatsoaking intercoolers, tiny turbos with good flowing heads of course they want low compression. They have to be sold in all sorts of climates and where only low octane is available. If the car is well tuned compression shouldn't matter. There's plenty of high compression street cars running on 91 or 93 or ethanol no problems.

It's not that it can't be done, I'm definitely not saying that, but it's cheap insurance. My turbo is like a small frame 35r. I'm not saying that there is no difference but to argue performance off boost in a boosted application is kinda silly to me street car or not.

We're talking cheap-er realistic daily driving cars, which probably means a lot of different things to different people.

[Whodats14]

My desire for low comp of certainly the cushion it provides while tuning, and because 93 is usually at all gas stations, e85 is not common so not very smart for a daily. Also I believe the lower compression will add to the longevity of the motor, as I will be tuning it, yes I have tuned boosted vehicles on a dyno, and will be tuning mine on a dyno.

I like way to safe for a daily, if a built ka block at 300whp is considered over kill, or way to safe, I have 0 problems with that.

Also here in Indiana you never know what the weather today will be like vs tomorrow haha.

Side note, all the aftermarket pistons I saw for rb26 were sub 9 as well.

[Whodats14]

Also, something to consider, I will be decking both the head and the block, so while the pistons may be 8.6, I very well may land at 9 after machining.

[cotbu]

You're a machinists, so why does everything thing you say sound like a question. You do know that, if deck the head and block you now have to use the appropriate headgasket?
My guess is, you'll be back asking which size and probably bore.

Ps I wrote bots with more A.I.

[vJilly]

Felpro HG, t25, 370 injectors, fuel pump and a rom tune will put out around 260whp with a KA and it will be the most responsive setup you could have ever asked for.

this. I wouldn't go with a t25 as it drops near the end of redline, hunt down an s15 t28, or a GTiR t28 and have a fucking ball, make gobs of tq and enjoy.

[Future240]

" Cody Ace brackets for AC and snag a Fwd sr throttle body off a g20 at the junkyard for the extra throttle pulley for cruise. Cruise control was about the easiest thing to get going on my swap, I'll never understand why no one else really does it.



Wait what? that is it? I thought it was some complex thing. Is it bolt on?

[OBEEWON]

This reminds me of my lazy nipple fiasco.