View Full Version : Before or After the Sr swap?
jcerillo70
07-03-2016, 09:26 AM
Hey guys,
SR20 swap going in this week,
I ordered a used manifold that im going to send out to cody ace to get an external WG installed on and i have tomei poncams 256 sitting in the garage.
The debate is here: do i wait to install the cams and ewg until i have enough saved for the Garrett turbo and bigger 750 injectors and apexi power fc d-jetro?
or while swapping in the s14 engine next week, throw in the cams and new manifold with the EWG? Will it benefit in anyway if i dont wait?
Maybe someone has a good idea with how to go top feed injectors without getting that greddy manifold and jgy rail? or just stick with the bigger side feed injectors?
My goal is more low to mid range power. Im not looking for high range top speed rather then who can do the quickest 0-60 off the line.
Any help,ideas and direction is grealy appreciated! Thanks guys
jr_ss
07-03-2016, 10:15 AM
Wait. Put all your mods on at once and then get it TUNED. You'll spend more money piece mealing everything together otherwise.
Typically cams shift your powerband to the right, away from low/mid range and more towards mid/topend.
RHD*bro
07-03-2016, 10:20 AM
Wait. Put all your mods on at once and then get it TUNED. You'll spend more money piece mealing everything together otherwise.
Typically cams shift your powerband to the right, away from low/mid range and more towards mid/topend.
I second that .. Get all ur parts together then install them to tune ur car 1 time not multiple times and save sum $$
derass
07-03-2016, 10:28 AM
You could put in the cams ahead of time, Poncams do not need to be tuned for.
I would wait for the new turbo before adding the EWG, otherwise you will have to weld shut your T28 which will lose all of its resale value.
As for injectors, keep it simple and just get sidefeeds for the stock rail.
jcerillo70
07-03-2016, 12:37 PM
You could put in the cams ahead of time, Poncams do not need to be tuned for.
I would wait for the new turbo before adding the EWG, otherwise you will have to weld shut your T28 which will lose all of its resale value.
As for injectors, keep it simple and just get sidefeeds for the stock rail.
I completely forgot about that with the stock internal. Good call brotha!
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Kingtal0n
07-07-2016, 06:28 PM
If you want response, a cost effective setup for a stock sr20 is this::
top mount T3 48area radius T04E 50 trim compressor
coated mani, with a blanket for the turbo, water cooled and ball bearing if possible (any 45lb/min turbo will work just make sure you get a 48 area radius T3 turbine)
93 octane with an S3 JWT camshaft will produce a max of 380rwhp on 93 octane and spool similar to stock configuration.
use the oem intake manifold. A larger plenum will slow you down.
you also want the minimum length intercooler plumbing. Longer plumbing and large intercoolers will slow you down. Using a small intercooler and flipping it so the inlet and outlet are very close to the turbo is ideal.
Also never change out a stock OEM part if it was up the challenge. The OEM rail for example- is a great solid piece. Do not mess with it or change it! KISS applies, learn this hard rule before it is too late.
jcerillo70
07-07-2016, 07:45 PM
If you want response, a cost effective setup for a stock sr20 is this::
top mount T3 48area radius T04E 50 trim compressor
coated mani, with a blanket for the turbo, water cooled and ball bearing if possible (any 45lb/min turbo will work just make sure you get a 48 area radius T3 turbine)
93 octane with an S3 JWT camshaft will produce a max of 380rwhp on 93 octane and spool similar to stock configuration.
use the oem intake manifold. A larger plenum will slow you down.
you also want the minimum length intercooler plumbing. Longer plumbing and large intercoolers will slow you down. Using a small intercooler and flipping it so the inlet and outlet are very close to the turbo is ideal.
Also never change out a stock OEM part if it was up the challenge. The OEM rail for example- is a great solid piece. Do not mess with it or change it! KISS applies, learn this hard rule before it is too late.
Thanks for the info! Will the Jim wolf camshaft make a different power band then the poncams I bought? Maybe closer to the band in looking for
Also as far as turbos- Garrett 2871 turbo? (What I see a lot of people run) Or something bigger or different
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Kingtal0n
07-07-2016, 10:01 PM
Thanks for the info! Will the Jim wolf camshaft make a different power band then the poncams I bought? Maybe closer to the band in looking for
Also as far as turbos- Garrett 2871 turbo? (What I see a lot of people run) Or something bigger or different
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2871 is a bottom mount. the small '64' area radius version is for 350rwhp and costs around $1100 new. You can use stock manifolds and internal gate. It used to be the cookie cutter, but todays top mount manifold options are-a-plenty, cracking and support is not as big of a problem, and the design is far superior as far as exhaust gas flow, allowing the user to step things up if he/she wishes at a later point (you can easily decide to swap in a next 60 trim turbo and produce an extra +100 horsepower with a top mount configuration, where this is NOT an option for the bottom mount series in the same price bracket) remember that the bottom mount BB garret units are $1100, whereas the top mount journal bearing units, which spool similarly (the 50 trim I suggested) and have better upgrade options, are also easier to remove, cost about half of what a bottom mount BB unit does.
As to the camshaft- you want a stock or nearly stock valve spring. This limits your options to about a 256 tomei or a JWT S3. The stock head is great in the 350-400HP range with just a slightly longer duration, you don't need or want extra lift. You don't want a large cam or heavy spring because it will make the vehicle less reliable (the spring and high lift are not street/daily driver friendly) Also keep in mind the stock engine has very tight bearing clearances (as low as 0.0008" in some engines) and will not appreciate very high RPM, I keep my street cars RPM limiter fuel cut set to around 6500rpm max. Its ok to raise it to 7200-7500 for a dyno run or a drag race if you really really need to win a race, but for the street there is no point running the engine that hard.
Karlhammer
07-08-2016, 07:32 AM
Better boost control with external and if it's out why wouldn't you.
pacotaco345
07-08-2016, 12:36 PM
I would wait for the new turbo before adding the EWG, otherwise you will have to weld shut your T28 which will lose all of its resale value.
But he could be double wastegate pimpin.
Also keep the poncams, they're awesome. I got mine and had the car retuned (for other stuff also). Idle sounds rad since I lowered it to 700 rpm and I have all the bottom end I had before but none of the fall off after 6k ish before like with the stock cams.
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