sr20det running so RICH!!!

[NoFlex]

Hey,

My sr20det is running rich. AFR are at 10:1 or less. The car starts up and drives fine, but stumbles and dies when you come to a stop. Also back fires quite a bit. Any input would be appreciated.

The car ran fine last summer, over the winter I put a s15 turbo on it (still running the same boost levels) and a new clutch. Ever since its acted like this.

Things I've done/checked

Replaced bkr7e plugs with bkr6e (they were extremely fouled). Gap is at .28
All injectors are getting 12v and all have between 11-11.4 ohms resistance.
ECT sensor resistance values are in spec with temperatures.
Vacuum at idle is at 20hg according to my boost gauge.
No boost leaks
Injector o-rings seem to be dry and in good shape.

[Kingtal0n]

pressure test to find the leak

[NoFlex]

pressure test to find the leak

pressure test what?

[cotbu]

He means boost leak test, but 10.1 or richer is a major boost leak unless your tune was crap to begin with. The ecu uses all the sensor that are worth checking, that's why we also check the ecu, wiring, and codes etc.
So if you in fact checked boost leaks and injectors ,ect and codes have been pulled and there is no obvious mafs problems, aka limp mode. Your knock sensor is working? you are probably in the knock map. You can get there from, bad gas, timing, tune or just normal detonation.

so if everything has been checked pull codes and check everything again.

[NoFlex]

forgot to mention i checked codes and got a 55 which signals everything is ok.
Has not occured to me to check the knock sensor yet.
I am running the stock ecu and it was honestly fine last year with the same mods besides a different turbo.
I have not checked boost leaks under pressure, so I will do this next as well as the knock sensor

[Kingtal0n]

I See 10:1 on maf cars when the bypass is atmospheric. Even just a brief instant of atmospheric purge results with a stumbling 10:1 engine, it takes a few seconds to come back. I tell the owner "not good, washing the cylinder walls etc..." and some will tell me "its been doing that for 10 years" and I respond with "well thats why your engines compression is low"

[1988montecarloss]

i was having similar issues with my setup which is similar (rs-enthalpy tuned ecu) and i also run a BOV vented to the atmosphere and ive been wondering if that was compensated for in the tune, i tightened my plug gap to .020" which helped and my car now drives good enough to drive daily and doesnt break up under boost anymore but still has the fluctuating idle and sometimes stumbles/stalls out when coming up to a red light etc.

[cotbu]

i was having similar issues with my setup which is similar (rs-enthalpy tuned ecu) and i also run a BOV vented to the atmosphere and ive been wondering if that was compensated for in the tune, i tightened my plug gap to .020" which helped and my car now drives good enough to drive daily and doesnt break up under boost anymore but still has the fluctuating idle and sometimes stumbles/stalls out when coming up to a red light etc.

I tell the owner "not good, washing the cylinder walls etc..." and some will tell me "its been doing that for 10 years" and I respond with "well thats why your engines compression is low"

I did assume it was 10.1 afr all the time.
I just don't get why people assume this is normal, I mean every time you come to a stop you stall, like really!

[1988montecarloss]

I did assume it was 10.1 afr all the time.
I just don't get why people assume this is normal, I mean every time you come to a stop you stall, like really!

wut

i am quite aware a 10:1 afr isnt normal

[cotbu]

wut

i am quite aware a 10:1 afr isnt normal
Every time you come to a stop, you stall isn't normal either.
having a 1300rpm idle isn't either, blip-ping the throttle when clutching in to stop, nope not normal.
big cloud of black smoke could be normal, if you blow off intercooler pipes on a draw through mafs car.

Recirculate the bov or get a tune from me, that the industry says can't be done!:2f2f:

[Dboyizmlg]

So I belive OP still hasn't found issue...?

OP, maybe you need to check your intercooler pipes my dude.
Mostly the ones on turbo side (hot side).

[NoFlex]

found the issue(s)

The sensor for the AEM UEGO failed and constantly reads 10:1 The car is not actually running that rich.
The second problem was a small vacuum leak on the intake pipe behind the air filter.
The third problem that was causing me to stall was the idle adjustment screw on the intake manifold was tightened too much, I let it off a bit and it idles fine without any stalling issues.