always something new. Heater core time, S14 replacement help topics

[Kingtal0n]

I've seen one hundred topics about changing the heater core in an S14 but rarely are there any nice pictures or detailed lists, they usually go something like "1. remove dash 2. yes the whole dash 3. 600 plugs and wires and 333 bolts later, remove heater core... " etc


So here I am wondering if there is a 2016 updated guide, a better "new" way to get at or fix a leaky heater core, and have a few questions for experienced folk,

1. I notice the top of the core has 4 screws holding in the plastic tubes. Presumably, it is these tubes that have sprung a leak (not sure yet, but lets just say they are responsible...) would it be likely/easier/possible to simply change out the leaking plastic tube portion? And leave the old heater core alone somewhat? Probably not, but figured I would ask.

2. Are there any other options besides replacing worn out leaky plastic tubes with new fragile plastic tubes?

2.5 Ive never taken out a dash, and I know the FSM has pics, but, before I go into the FSM, for those of you who have taken out the dash, where are all the bolts/nuts holding it in place that you didn't find until you tried several times unsuccessfully to remove it? I know we always find those last 2-5 bolts that we "forgot" and "why isnt this thing coming out?!" So Spill the beans! Theres some under those defroster vents I bet! And the plastic vents are going to crack when I remove them, arn't they! Man, I hate it when experience tells me not to ask.


3. anybody want to do it for me?


thanks

[hanzbrady]

Broadfield did some crazy custom stuff when he was working on his heater core, maybe check his build for some inspiration?

[jedi03]

let me know...I have been wondering the same thing...Isuzu was smart with one of their medium duty trucks and had access panels under the front hood...I have debated about cutting hole in the firewall...but for the most part in my experience removing the dash is the best way...in my s13 had to remove the impact bar as well...I wonder if you could break out the old plastic ones, thread the inlet/outlet and screw in new one? just clean it out real good...is also soft aluminum and may have plastic end tanks too...

[Crazyced]

Just did exactly this twice in a week. Once to remove mine and once to pull one from another car.

It doesn't really need a How to. Just a couple of things. Be careful with the windshield vent cover (there are 3 screws behind them). They tend to snap in a million pieces. I got mine out in one piece. I wasn't so nice with the parts car. You also need to undo the 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the steering column in order to get the cluster bezel out. I also manage to remove/loosen most of the big zip ty wire harness holders that are on the dash beam. Those will be helpful to put things back together. I also took the HVAC assembly in 3 parts. 1st the blower, then the AC box, then the heater core section.

If you need more help, the YT guy on Offbeat garage has a timelaps of him pulling all that out. Might be helpful to you. But like he says. It's literally: unplug stuff, unscrew what you see, pull on it and see why it's not coming out, repeat.

[KAT-PWR]

Pulling the dash isn't too bad. It only gets bad when you try and take short cuts.
Dropping the steering column is the ticket, also dismounting the ebrake will make it easier. Both of these are only 2 bolts each and save a lot of headache and potential damage to soft goods. (but I am s13 so may be different for you guys)

[dbeiler]

I've never seen those plastic tubes leak on a heater core in any vehicle ever. Why do you think the tubes are leaking? The leaks come from the aluminum core. Usually due to coolant system neglect (never changing coolant) or electrolysis.

Good luck finding a new core. Nissan doesn't make them anymore. Not available from any aftermarket companies either. I paid over $300 to have a custom copper (repairable) heater core built to match my original aluminum core.

Yes, the defrost vent will shatter into a million pieces. Two screws are located under it. Both side vents must come out also. The RH vent has a screw hidden underneath.

You must remove both A-pillar trim pieces and literally everything touching your dash.

Drop the rear-most section of the steering column by removing two bolts underneath it. The nuts are tac-welded to the steering shaft cross brace. Rest the steering wheel on the driver's seat.

I've always removed the dash through the passenger door. Release the E-brake handle (or remove it), remove the shift knob if possible, and lift the dash up and rear-ward. The top of the dash will hit the rearview mirror as the bottom hits the shift knob. It requires some maneuvering to get it past that point.

When you get to the HVAC boxes, the AC section (center box) is removed first. Obviously your AC refrigerant must be recovered prior because you'll be disconnecting the AC lines. You'll need to remove the steering shaft cross brace because the heater core section won't fit out past it.

The first time sucks because you'll waste time looking for screws. After countless dash removals, I can now do it under 30 mins! Good luck.

[FaLKoN240]

Holy fuck... I might just leave mine looped.

I have a bolt in roll cage with dash escapes...