timing issues and hidden vacuum leak video inside

[entrapm3nt]

I'm having trouble getting my car to go into timing mode using the rain dance method. I have consult and ecu talk working but can't get conzult to work to freeze timing. It seems I will have to pay for Nissan datascan. Also my car keeps leaning out. I put in a brand new coolant temp sensor and a new z32 maf. It's a fully built sr with rs-empathy tune. Iacv seems normal on ecutalk. Can't find a leak anywhere I have my aeromotive fpr set at 45 with vacuum line on. Here's a video i just posted to youtube.

https://youtu.be/Mxb5VMN7ps0

[CompleteXen]

Looks like the same issue I'm currently having, with the exception of the high idle and a few other things. Have you gone over any vacuum lines and vacuum ports with carb cleaner?

My IACV has been deleted so that might be why we have different idles.

When you tap the throttle (just a real quick hard jab) does it bog down?
And when you slowly build up throttle (or are past 2k rpm) does the response feel normal?

Goodluck figuring this out.

[entrapm3nt]

Looks like the same issue I'm currently having, with the exception of the high idle and a few other things. Have you gone over any vacuum lines and vacuum ports with carb cleaner?

My IACV has been deleted so that might be why we have different idles.

When you tap the throttle (just a real quick hard jab) does it bog down?
And when you slowly build up throttle (or are past 2k rpm) does the response feel normal?

Goodluck figuring this out.

yes ive searched with carb cleaner everywhere with no luck. if you watch the video it def bogs down and almost stalls. leans out. car feels slow as hell for the amount of mods done to it.

[CompleteXen]

yes ive searched with carb cleaner everywhere with no luck. if you watch the video it def bogs down and almost stalls. leans out. car feels slow as hell for the amount of mods done to it.

Get a timing light and tell me what you get. Make sure base timing is set to 15* and then go from there. This definitely sounds like a timing issue.

Have you rebuilt the motor at all recently? If anything pull the valve cover, set the motor to TDC and check where the cam lobes are.

[LoSt180]

I just adjusted my timing last night. Make sure the car is fully warmed up first (go for a 10 minute drive or so). Shut car off, unplug throttle position sensor, start back up, and stab throttle 3 times.

That's what the FSM states anyway. What I noticed while monitoring with the Android version of Nissan DataScan was that timing was hovering at 31*, I kept thinking I was doing something wrong. However, as soon as I twisted the CAS, NDSI indicated the timing locked to 15* as expected and THEN I was able to use a timing light to adjust base timing from there.

[Kingtal0n]

You do a boost leak test by filling the plumbing with compressor air to find and fix all leaks. The plumbing should hold it pretty solid, and bleed off VERY slowly for the most part.

2. If this is an SR20 just disconnect the TPS and find a timing light that gives you 15* with the CAS mostly center (not too far from center at the adjustment bolts). Try flipping the pickup and using different lights, they dont all work. RPM needs to be around 800 or 850. What disconnecting the TPS does, is stop the ECU from adding and subtracting timing quickly (it trys to stabilize the idle by playing with timing when it knows you are not touching the throttle)

[CompleteXen]

You do a boost leak test by filling the plumbing with compressor air to find and fix all leaks. The plumbing should hold it pretty solid, and bleed off VERY slowly for the most part.

2. If this is an SR20 just disconnect the TPS and find a timing light that gives you 15* with the CAS mostly center (not too far from center at the adjustment bolts). Try flipping the pickup and using different lights, they dont all work. RPM needs to be around 800 or 850. What disconnecting the TPS does, is stop the ECU from adding and subtracting timing quickly (it trys to stabilize the idle by playing with timing when it knows you are not touching the throttle)

Helpful as always man. Ill be doing all this tomorrow morning, leak test, fix all vacuum leaks, check timing and go from there. I know Im not OP but Ill keep people updated in hopes that they can solve this aswell.

[entrapm3nt]

Get a timing light and tell me what you get. Make sure base timing is set to 15* and then go from there. This definitely sounds like a timing issue.

Have you rebuilt the motor at all recently? If anything pull the valve cover, set the motor to TDC and check where the cam lobes are.

Cant set the timing due to the rough idle issue that seems to be a vacuum leak but no leaks. pretty sure its coming from my maf being too close to the turbo. The motor has been rebuilt its fully built with everything you can think of. the mechanical timing is correct.

[entrapm3nt]

You do a boost leak test by filling the plumbing with compressor air to find and fix all leaks. The plumbing should hold it pretty solid, and bleed off VERY slowly for the most part.

2. If this is an SR20 just disconnect the TPS and find a timing light that gives you 15* with the CAS mostly center (not too far from center at the adjustment bolts). Try flipping the pickup and using different lights, they dont all work. RPM needs to be around 800 or 850. What disconnecting the TPS does, is stop the ECU from adding and subtracting timing quickly (it trys to stabilize the idle by playing with timing when it knows you are not touching the throttle)

Ive already done a boost leak test with no leaks. im very aware of how to set ignition timing. Although im sure its good info for other people.

[entrapm3nt]

Just as a update im ordering parts to extend the maf to see if it fixes my idle problem then ill set the timing and let everyone know if its fixed. no reason to set timing if idle is screwed up. you would just be fighting yourself and the ecu and possibly make it worse.

[Tyler_240]

I had the hardest time getting my timing set too. I did a 5spd swap at the same time, and the damn thing just wouldn't go into timing mode.

I ended up wiring the neutral position switch, not to be confused with the clutch interlock switch. This is the one on the transmission above the speed sensor.

After that, it was piece of cake. I wouldn't assume you only have one problem, so I think fixing the MAF positioning is a great idea. I had good success with clocking the MAF slighty, so instead of it being parallel with the ground, I had mine perpendicular and had a about 15" or so of piping w/ a bend.

Remember, idle and timing go hand and hand, so you may have to adjust your timing slightly and re-adjust your idle to achieve 800ish RPMs like the others suggested and then re-verify your timing. I ended up at 17* BTDC give or take and my IACV was fully closed and my TPS was set to .47v