Plug-n-play Igniter Bypass?

[LoSt180]

For most ignition coil pack upgrades that require removing the igniter, there seems to be only two ways: a) cut the connectors off and splice the wires together, or b) crack open the igniter, figure out a way to remove the guts and solder in some jumper wires.

I'm working with a company now to make a one-off dummy igniter module that is essentially jumper wires inside of the igniter case. My thought is that I can easily return to stock if needed, and I also don't want to cut up my wiring specialties harness.


I was wondering if there's any interest in having them make more?


UPDATE:
I ordered 10 of these things based on feedback from here and the various Facebook groups. Get them while you can!
FS post: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=626258

[blackmags91]

Interested. Yes. Do it.
<3

[LoSt180]

Well, that was fast. They sent me these pics. Can't wait to test it out!

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/97-Kouki/Screenshot_2016-02-25-06-03-21-1.png (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/97-Kouki/Screenshot_2016-02-25-06-03-21-1.png.html)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/97-Kouki/Screenshot_2016-02-25-06-18-42-1.png (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/97-Kouki/Screenshot_2016-02-25-06-18-42-1.png.html)

[rawgarage]

Looks legit...

[CompleteXen]

^ Agreed. I'd be down for one.

[TheRealSy90]

Well, that was fast. They sent me these pics. Can't wait to test it out!

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/97-Kouki/Screenshot_2016-02-25-06-03-21-1.png (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/97-Kouki/Screenshot_2016-02-25-06-03-21-1.png.html)




I've been looking for someone to make a plug and play ignitor delete for a while now. So I'm definitely interested.
However you've got a problem here, the correct way to delete the ignitor is not wiring straight across from the E pins to the I pins. This will result in an incorrect firing order. It needs to be wired as such:
E1-I4, E2-I1, E3-I2, E4-I3



and then wired the ignitor delete as such.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/guitarist_of_punk/srtoLS2ignitorwiring_zps416bdc32.png (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/guitarist_of_punk/media/srtoLS2ignitorwiring_zps416bdc32.png.html)




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[LoSt180]

That color code is incorrect. I've opened up two igniters now and the circuitry is indeed straight across. You have to go by pins, not the colors.

I've also studied the FSM wiring diagrams to confirm.

[LoSt180]

I've been looking for someone to make a plug and play ignitor delete for a while now. So I'm definitely interested.
However you've got a problem here, the correct way to delete the ignitor is not wiring straight across from the E pins to the I pins. This will result in an incorrect firing order. It needs to be wired as such:
E1-I4, E2-I1, E3-I2, E4-I3


Not sure what jacked up wiring that guy had, but here's the inside of an actual igniter. Straight across E pins to I pins is the correct way.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/maintenance/20160229_183313.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/maintenance/20160229_183313.jpg.html)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/maintenance/20160229_183502.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/maintenance/20160229_183502.jpg.html)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/maintenance/20160229_183630.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/maintenance/20160229_183630.jpg.html)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/maintenance/20160229_213220.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/maintenance/20160229_213220.jpg.html)

[TheRealSy90]

His wiring was also using the FSM as reference, because he did wire it straight across and the firing order was wrong... After he changed it it was corrected. So, whatever you wanna do mate.


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[LoSt180]

His wiring was also using the FSM as reference, because he did wire it straight across and the firing order was wrong... After he changed it it was corrected. So, whatever you wanna do mate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scanned that thread, he made a mistake. He wired his coil pack sub-harness using the wire colors at the ecu. For some stupid reason the wire colors at the ecu are not the same as the colors in the sub-harness, thanks Nissan. So that's why he had to change his wiring to match colors instead of straight across.

I'll be sure to provide an update when I get everything installed.

[derass]

Will there be a production run of these deletes? Will they all be yellow? I feel that black would be more subtle. Either way, great product for those who want to upgrade their coils and not permanently modify the harness or ignitor.

[TheRealSy90]

Scanned that thread, he made a mistake. He wired his coil pack sub-harness using the wire colors at the ecu. For some stupid reason the wire colors at the ecu are not the same as the colors in the sub-harness. So that's why he had to change his wiring to match colors instead of straight across.

I'll be sure to provide an update when I get everything installed.


I didn't even catch onto that, crazy man. Looking forward to updates on this because Z33 coil packs plug right into the sr20 coil harness, just have to swap two wires and delete the ignitor.


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[DustinSixOh9]

Definitely into this for the future

[derass]

Z33 coil packs plug right into the sr20 coil harness

I'm assuming they fit the plugs and valve cover correctly? How do they compare with Lxx coils? My tuner was raving about the voltage of the GM stuff, but if we can stay coil-on-plug with a similar improvement, the Z33 coils sound like the better choice.

[RalliartRsX]

Didn't I send you (OP) a pm on the colors ;).

Ps I'm still interested in one of the dead ones :)

[TheRealSy90]

I'm assuming they fit the plugs and valve cover correctly? How do they compare with Lxx coils? My tuner was raving about the voltage of the GM stuff, but if we can stay coil-on-plug with a similar improvement, the Z33 coils sound like the better choice.


They are definitely stronger than Sr coils, and a whole lot easier to find and cheaper. They fit well in the valve cover but I don't believe they can bolt down, I'll go back out and check if they can later on tonight.

I'm willing to bet the GM stuff has a higher power potential due to the way they get wired, so I guess you could put z33 coils in the middle of Sr and ls?

For ease of install the z33 is less wiring for sure.


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[RalliartRsX]

COP is pretty simple to wire. Ground, Signal and (+5 or whatever) Volts. The Ignitor has 5 wires from the harness and 4 wires for the coils (I hate the idea of an ignitor BTW! Just another failure point and Nissan did away with it with the S15)

The FSM is your best friend here as the S15 vs S13/S14 the signal and positive wire is swapped for instance.

@LoSt180; do you have the PM I sent you?? If not, I can post my wiring here. But for everyone else, just use the FSM and trace the wires. Unless you have a new harness which is color coded correctly, no telling what wires are in there currently. I did a wire diagram using the S14 and S15 FSM, a Power supply (generate voltage) and a volt meter. Luckily, my harness followed the FSM, so that made removing the ignitor and going with direct COP via the S15 coils fairly straightforward.

What the OP is portraying makes life so much easier with no cut wires!

[LoSt180]

@LoSt180; do you have the PM I sent you?? If not, I can post my wiring here. But for everyone else, just use the FSM and trace the wires. Unless you have a new harness which is color coded correctly, no telling what wires are in there currently. I did a wire diagram using the S14 and S15 FSM, a Power supply (generate voltage) and a volt meter. Luckily, my harness followed the FSM, so that made removing the ignitor and going with direct COP via the S15 coils fairly straightforward.


Glad you chimed in. Thanks for confirming that wiring per wire colors causes issues.

Also, the S15 and Z33 coils are wired the same. Z33 coils can be bolted down if you use a plastic spacer on the bolt to keep it level. The boots won't seal the plug holes, they kind of "hover" over the openings. Can still use the cover though. When my coil boots get here, I'm going to see if they fit Z33 coils also (I have a G35).

Starting to sound like I should see about doing a small production run after I test this thing out.

[LoSt180]

Part finally arrived. Tested it out with a multi meter before installing it, everything checked out.

Fancy package:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/97-Kouki/20160307_183020.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/97-Kouki/20160307_183020.jpg.html)

Look ma, no janky splices, easily reversible if needed.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/97-Kouki/20160307_184403.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/97-Kouki/20160307_184403.jpg.html)

[TheRealSy90]

Can anyone post a pinout of how z33 coils are wired?


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[jedi03]

bump send info for purchase!!!

[LoSt180]

Can anyone post a pinout of how z33 coils are wired?


Z33 coils are wired the same as S15 coils. If using S13/S14 subharness, you just have to flip 12V and Ground, pretty simple with a small flathead to move the pins around.

If looking at the end of the connector (terminal side) it goes:
S15/Z33 - [12V]-[GND]-[SIG]
S13/S14 - [GND]-[12V]-[SIG]

If you have a wiring specialties coil harness, the colors are: Ground - Purple/black stripe, 12V - Green, Signal for cylinder #1 is black, 2,3,4 are pink wires. Not sure why #1 is black, probably for backward compatibility with the S13 check circuit, but I bet people confuse it for ground all the time.

S15 coils installed and wired up properly.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/97-Kouki/20160306_141218.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/97-Kouki/20160306_141218.jpg.html)


The original wiring (mainly looking at positions of Green and Purple here), as well as test fitting a Z33 coilpack with S14 coil boots.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/maintenance/20160304_192752.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/maintenance/20160304_192752.jpg.html)

[TheRealSy90]

Awesome thanks for that info. Have you ran the z33 coilpacks yet? I'm curious how much more powerful they are, and how much more I can open up my plug gap with them. I had to gap pretty small with stock coils when I went to 15psi on a t28 [emoji28]

I was going to try my s13 coil boots on the z33 coils but it didn't look like it would work properly.

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[LoSt180]

Awesome thanks for that info. Have you ran the z33 coilpacks yet? I'm curious how much more powerful they are, and how much more I can open up my plug gap with them. I had to gap pretty small with stock coils when I went to 15psi on a t28 [emoji28]

I was going to try my s13 coil boots on the z33 coils but it didn't look like it would work properly.


I actually haven't run with the z33 coils. I have a G35 so I just grabbed one off of there to see if it would fit. I'll have to see if I actually took a pic with the stock z33 coil boots on there to show you how they would fit normally.

The S13/S14 coilpack boots aren't serviceable, meaning you can't swap them over to a different coilpack. The boot in that pic is really a Splitfire S13/14 boot (I have a spare set of boots if interested).

[LoSt180]

I heard back from manufacturer, if I order 10 they would be $59 each. Plus $5 for priority mail shipping. So $64 each.

Worth it, or nah?

[TheRealSy90]

I think it's worth it.

[fal4cy]

Literally was looking into doing the exact same thing. Let me know if you make an order.

[jedi03]

What's your PayPal info?

[LoSt180]

I think there's enough interest to get these made. I'll update the first post and open a for sale thread when I hear back from the manufacturer.

[LoSt180]

UPDATE:
I ordered 10 of these things based on feedback from here and the various Facebook groups. Get them while you can!
FS post: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=626258

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/ForSale/20160323_100508.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/ForSale/20160323_100508.jpg.html)

[speedingmofa]

In case anyone is looking for these => http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=646232

[RalliartRsX]

Cool part.

[blksylv]

Wiring Specialities sells a bypass also

http://www.wiringspecialties.com/s13-s14-sr20det-ignition-chip-bypass/

[speedingmofa]

Wiring Specialities sells a bypass also

http://www.wiringspecialties.com/s13-s14-sr20det-ignition-chip-bypass/

That's correct.

But i find it a bit of an ugly duckling. And that part of your loom is going to be vibrating against your chassis as it's designed to be bolted down. I dunno, the ocd guy in me doesn't allow me to put this in my car. It also looks longer in comparison... It's a definitive no go for me.

Here's what the wiring specialties bypass looks like:
http://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-b03t074/products/1724/images/7127/SR20ChipBYPASS__54985.1474173448.300.200.jpg?c=2

[crash n' burn]

Pretty sure WS relocates the ignitor inside the car now. wouldn't be seen either way with their new harnesses.

[LoSt180]

Pretty sure WS relocates the ignitor inside the car now. wouldn't be seen either way with their new harnesses.

Only their "pro" series does the tuck/relocate. The OEM series still has the ignitor/ptu bolted to the strut tower.

I'm glad WS started making those. They were the first place I asked, and even sent them those connectors from alibaba asking if they were correct. They didn't have anything at the time, so I went the other route, which I think looks little better IMO.

Happy to see people are still finding a need/use for these.

[jedi03]

lol I asked them about that too was told no way and they didn't know anything about bypassing the ignitor, at least they are updating their capabilities to keep up with current trends and interests! I have my yellow, still waiting for my ignitor to fail or need to go more powerful!

[speedingmofa]

lol I asked them about that too was told no way and they didn't know anything about bypassing the ignitor, at least they are updating their capabilities to keep up with current trends and interests! I have my yellow, still waiting for my ignitor to fail or need to go more powerful!

You needn't wait for your ignitor to fail. I'm using this simply to upgrade to better and more modern coil packs with the ignitors built-in. (LSx, K20, S15, etc)
All this started because my S14 coil packs wouldn't fit in the SR20VE valve cover :kiss:
During my hunt for a European alternative, i noticed VAG coil packs seemed to fit the bill... and boy do they fit and perform :naughty:

[crash n' burn]

i wouldn't even consider it. Waiting for it to fail is a terrible reason, haha. upgrading the coils is just a smart idea. Those VW coils are cheap AF too.

[LoSt180]

i wouldn't even consider it. Waiting for it to fail is a terrible reason, haha. upgrading the coils is just a smart idea. Those VW coils are cheap AF too.

Seriously. OE Denso coilpacks for an Audi R8 (the red ones) are only $18 each on rockauto. I know what I'll be getting if my S15 Splitfires ever die (if they fit an S15 valve cover though).

[crash n' burn]

they fit. A lot of European S-chassis guys run them since they're like 20 euros/ea and can be picked up at any local shop

[blksylv]

anybody have a link to any other boots that fit vq coils on a s13 sr? There was a seller on ebay that thought he had some but he was actually out of stock.

[LoSt180]

anybody have a link to any other boots that fit vq coils on a s13 sr? There was a seller on ebay that thought he had some but he was actually out of stock.
If you get some spacers, they will bolt up. Boot won't seal the top opening, but it'll be secure.

[blksylv]

I kinda want to seal the top. It's the only thing thats stopped me from installing them at the moment.

[TheRealSy90]

Also wondering how we can seal vq coilpacks to a 13/14 vc.

[LoSt180]

Looks like any other coil upgrade isn't going to seal up. Just don't hose off your engine and everything should be fine.
The boots I used were essentially s13/s14 Splitfire coil boots. Yellow Jacket, and some other knockoff companies sell the same design. I just emailed them all until I got a response that they would sell the boots alone.

[TheRealSy90]

Can those be used on the VQ coilpacks?


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[LoSt180]

Can those be used on the VQ coilpacks?


I test fitted them, seemed to work. (I have a G35 also and grabbed a coil pack just to see if it would fit)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/maintenance/20160304_192246.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/maintenance/20160304_192246.jpg.html)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y240/lost_180/maintenance/20160304_192752.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/lost_180/media/maintenance/20160304_192752.jpg.html)

Kind of a pain to locate though. Other installs I've seen just put the VQ packs in there, no custom boots.