mnguyend
01-29-2016, 01:44 AM
I have an entire Z with all the electronic components. I know there are better/smarter/cost effective routes and options for the 240, but I’m just a dumb dude that fancies a vq in his 240..
Need advice and some guidance. I have done a lot of reading from various forums and threads, etc… and have compiled over 10 pages of information. It is a bit overwhelming, but beginning to be more clear as well. I have a few things I want to confirm/verify and was hoping others can shed light and correct me.
Option 1: Attempt to BAR.
From my search, it sounded doable? Irax and drift freaq were supposedly close to it, but dropped the project (not sure, I am trying to contact them as well) at some point?
Some of the issues that cropped up were header/steering column clearance? Was this ever confirmed to be true? Or did anyone find a work around? Something about rotating the flange would do the job?
Another issues was the fuel system of the s13 vs. Z. Return vs returnless. I saw someone who fabricated or modified their spare wheel area into one. Was this ever checked with ref whether it is acceptable?
I also remember reading something about the evap lines? My car vocabulary sucks.. is this referring to the same issue?
What is a solenoid?
Does relocating AC pump, power steering, fuel, sensors, etc factor in passing/failing BAR attempt?
Does modifying chassis for motor/part fitment factor in pass/fail?
For emissions.. I would have to use the stock dual exhaust correct?
Are there anymore obstacles/challenges that I have overlooked?
Also from my search, I have not found one single person that has BAR’d their vq 240sx.. everything has been speculation...? I don’t think I ever even came across a thread/someone who has physically gone to a ref and attempted to do it in CA (or maybe they didn’t want to share).
Option 2: No BAR.
This would be the easiest route? It sounded as simple as getting my ECU flashed (Zfever for one), a few wiring jobs and I should be good to go (in terms of the electronics/electrical). Everything else should be straight forward since I have everything from the donor vehicle. I would still need to work out the whole speedometer reading, but that would be it right?
Questions I never really found a solid answer, did not understand from reading, misread or missed completely (forgive me)..
1. What was the advantage, if any, for keeping the NATS? Erasing the NATS has nothing to do with emissions and controls right? It is just a security thing? Was it just a more “reliable off the bat” route and not having to deal with poor/faulty tuning?
If I decide I want to keep the NATS and not flash… this means I have to keep the key, BCM, IPDM, and most of the electronics/ sensor?
Which leads to… to use the Z’s key means I need to use the keyhole from the Z, which means I either install the Z’s dash or mod the Z’s keyhole device into the s13’s?
From here, if I didn’t want to use the Z’s whole dash and use the s13s… means I run into the issue with the tach and speedometer? Which means I have to find an ABS diff such as the J30’s? In addition I’d need the signal converter (Dakota digital converter?).
Even if I were to use the Z’s dash, I still need the ABS readings correct? Just no converter/adapter.
2. Mounting kit.. 3 options? McKinney, ebay, or custom? I have zero experience cutting welding and fabricating.. The other two option is more ideal for my situation, but I’ve heard mixed reviews on them… for the most part they still require some modding? Is there a known working one out there?
I was also wondering if anyone on the forum would be willing to make a replica of the ones they have which includes whatever modifications they had to do ie. Such that it is straight bolt on for me.
I am definitely sure I left something out, if it is not too much trouble, please point it out.
Also if this is in the wrong forum section, I apoligize.
Thank you in advance everyone! =]
Need advice and some guidance. I have done a lot of reading from various forums and threads, etc… and have compiled over 10 pages of information. It is a bit overwhelming, but beginning to be more clear as well. I have a few things I want to confirm/verify and was hoping others can shed light and correct me.
Option 1: Attempt to BAR.
From my search, it sounded doable? Irax and drift freaq were supposedly close to it, but dropped the project (not sure, I am trying to contact them as well) at some point?
Some of the issues that cropped up were header/steering column clearance? Was this ever confirmed to be true? Or did anyone find a work around? Something about rotating the flange would do the job?
Another issues was the fuel system of the s13 vs. Z. Return vs returnless. I saw someone who fabricated or modified their spare wheel area into one. Was this ever checked with ref whether it is acceptable?
I also remember reading something about the evap lines? My car vocabulary sucks.. is this referring to the same issue?
What is a solenoid?
Does relocating AC pump, power steering, fuel, sensors, etc factor in passing/failing BAR attempt?
Does modifying chassis for motor/part fitment factor in pass/fail?
For emissions.. I would have to use the stock dual exhaust correct?
Are there anymore obstacles/challenges that I have overlooked?
Also from my search, I have not found one single person that has BAR’d their vq 240sx.. everything has been speculation...? I don’t think I ever even came across a thread/someone who has physically gone to a ref and attempted to do it in CA (or maybe they didn’t want to share).
Option 2: No BAR.
This would be the easiest route? It sounded as simple as getting my ECU flashed (Zfever for one), a few wiring jobs and I should be good to go (in terms of the electronics/electrical). Everything else should be straight forward since I have everything from the donor vehicle. I would still need to work out the whole speedometer reading, but that would be it right?
Questions I never really found a solid answer, did not understand from reading, misread or missed completely (forgive me)..
1. What was the advantage, if any, for keeping the NATS? Erasing the NATS has nothing to do with emissions and controls right? It is just a security thing? Was it just a more “reliable off the bat” route and not having to deal with poor/faulty tuning?
If I decide I want to keep the NATS and not flash… this means I have to keep the key, BCM, IPDM, and most of the electronics/ sensor?
Which leads to… to use the Z’s key means I need to use the keyhole from the Z, which means I either install the Z’s dash or mod the Z’s keyhole device into the s13’s?
From here, if I didn’t want to use the Z’s whole dash and use the s13s… means I run into the issue with the tach and speedometer? Which means I have to find an ABS diff such as the J30’s? In addition I’d need the signal converter (Dakota digital converter?).
Even if I were to use the Z’s dash, I still need the ABS readings correct? Just no converter/adapter.
2. Mounting kit.. 3 options? McKinney, ebay, or custom? I have zero experience cutting welding and fabricating.. The other two option is more ideal for my situation, but I’ve heard mixed reviews on them… for the most part they still require some modding? Is there a known working one out there?
I was also wondering if anyone on the forum would be willing to make a replica of the ones they have which includes whatever modifications they had to do ie. Such that it is straight bolt on for me.
I am definitely sure I left something out, if it is not too much trouble, please point it out.
Also if this is in the wrong forum section, I apoligize.
Thank you in advance everyone! =]