S14 Brake/ Clutch Hardline Tuck

[S14kouki805]

Yes, I searched, no I didn't find what I was looking for.

So I've been thinking about tucking my brake lines but nothing too crazy. I've seen the kits but I'm not dropping over 200 on a fancy stainless steel setup.

I picked up some factory 3/16 hardline from Autozone and some M10 fittings, borrowed their flaring tool and bender (whatever it's called). I'm thinking of running my own custom lines from the BMC to the chassis.

I saw the Chase Bays kit and it runs down along the subframe. So I'm thinking why not do the same just with hardlines.

Any input? Possible issues, safety concerns, any feed back on this is appreciated.

If this has been covered dont be a dick just post the link.

[CrimsonRockett]

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=236014

[S14kouki805]

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=236014

Thanks but that's not what I had in mind, I actually read that thread a while back. I don't see the advantage of going all the way into the interior. I'm not building a show car, just doing some cleaning up.

I guess I'm just trying to see if anyone has had any issues with doing something like I'm describing.

From what I can conjure up it should work fine, I just want to rest easy and possibly learn from someone elses mistakes.

[S14kouki805]

Apparently no one else has done this? I'll post pics of my work once done, maybe someone else will learn from me.

[jedi03]

Buddy of mine did it...looks nice, just don't kink the lines while bending!

[codyace]

Not all 'DIY' hardline is the same, and most cheap crap will easily kink without the proper tooling.

With that said I am a HUGE fan of the "poly armour" (AGS) brand stuf you can get from the store. It's got a much better coating, it bends almost perfectly in your hands, and you can use almost any old tool on it, with good results...the same can't be said with cheaper shit.

Also, if you've never don't your own flares, buy spare stuff, and PRACTICE...it's not rocket science but it is your neck if you crush a flare the wrong way.


In regard to stainless I'd strongly suggest to stay away form using that from brake lines, unless you're going to go out and get the double annealed pricey stuff, along with a TOP of the line flare tool (not the ones you rent). Failure to do either will result in cracked/crunkled lines that never seal. Cheaper stainless and tools can do 37* (A/N or JIC style) but not brake double flare.

[S14kouki805]

With that said I am a HUGE fan of the "poly armour" (AGS) brand stuf you can get from the store. It's got a much better coating, it bends almost perfectly in your hands, and you can use almost any old tool on it, with good results...the same can't be said with cheaper shit.


Cool, thats the exact brand I purchased. I agree, it is very easy to work with and yes the flaring is going to take some practice. I was messing around with it last night there is definitely a technique to it. Overall I think this will be a successful project.

[codyace]

Cool, thats the exact brand I purchased. I agree, it is very easy to work with and yes the flaring is going to take some practice. I was messing around with it last night there is definitely a technique to it. Overall I think this will be a successful project.

Yep! Good luck and double/triple check to ensure no leaks!

[Silviacraze05jr]

Please post your work, I'm in the same dilemma.

[S14kouki805]

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Late update, did this a few weeks back, BMC is all connected now also.

I think it came out decent. I wound up getting the double flares done at a local shop for 5 bucks a pop. Fuck those little tools they rent you at Autozone, POS.

Let me know what you guys think

[Silviacraze05jr]

very nice man. so u got all the materials from autozone?

[S14kouki805]

Yeah they sell bulk line, you'll need 3/16th and M10 fittings. I do not suggest using the flaring tool they lend out. Make all your bends and the go to a local shop and have them flare the ends for you.

If you look close in the pics you'll notice I used zip ties and rubber hose to keep the lines from rattling against each other. Make sure you measure everything two or three times before cutting. A wire hanger can be used as a template.

[derass]

With the brake lines running across the front of the subframe, I'm concerned that if you go over any large road debris a line could be ruptured and you would lose braking. Probably one of the reasons Nissan kept them out of the on the firewall.

[S14kouki805]

With the brake lines running across the front of the subframe, I'm concerned that if you go over any large road debris a line could be ruptured and you would lose braking. Probably one of the reasons Nissan kept them out of the on the firewall.

I actually thought the same thing. I'm going to see how much clearance there is once I drop the car back down, I might put in a skid plate.

The Chase Bays kit goes the same route so I thought it would be good though, my car isn't slammed so I think I'll be ok.