Ziptie 180sx from Aus

[Joobie610]

http://ziptiemotorsports.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/ZMS_4176-HDR.jpg

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Website/Blog: http://ziptiemotorsports.com.au/ (http://ziptiemotorsports.com.au)
IG: https://www.instagram.com/ztms_joobie/

Hi guys,

So I thought I might start a thread here for my 180. This has been ongoing for a few years now with a bit of a break in the middle due to life. Having owned the car since 2011, I've had it too long now (in my eyes) to part with it.

As a bit of background, I've owned a couple of cars before this one. When I turned 17 and first got my provisional licence (P plates in aus, you get 4 points for the first 3 years of driving and can't drive anything with a certain power to weight ratio), I had a really terrible paying job and spent every cent I had buying an imported r32 GTS-T off a friend (keep in mind, most of these cars were also sold locally in Aus). It was completely standard in every way, and I loved that car. I have lots of pieces left of it going into my 180 as I crashed it, and before I fixed it up, a cyclone came through town and drowned it. No real pics though, as smartphones were only just coming out and I couldn't afford one, let alone a decent camera.

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After it was drowned, I gave up on it and bought a few buckets of crap before I bought my next import - a JDM Spec R s15, not the watered down version delivered locally. Won't lie, crashed that too. This is thanks to one of my friends:

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Ended up fixing that and selling it to buy my Kouki 180.

This will take a little while to catch up, so bare with me.

2011

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So this is what I have to work with for the moment. Doesn’t look like much, but it made 282rwkw on 22psi before I bought it.

Specs so far:

GT3076r .64 exh
Tial 44mm external gate
3 inch turbo back zorst
Hybrid FMIC
Splitfire coilpacks
800cc injectors
Power FC Djetro
HSD Remote Canister Coilovers
32 GTR front calipers
Slotted Rotors (custom drilled 4 x 114.3 pcd)
Bigger fuel pump (unknown)
Stage 1 cams (unknown)
GK Tech Rear Camber/Traction/Toe
Greenstuff Pads
Few other things I can’t think of ATM.

Took it to the drags for its first outing and promptly blew the piston rings in the first run… Managed a 13.4 @ 115mph. 2.6 60ft time let me down a decent amount.

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Turns out it was the ring land in cylinder 3 that went bye bye. Kept driving it anyway. Compression is overrated. Only difference is that now it blew wicked flames after giving it the berries. I never claimed to be a smart man. Didn't really do any further damage once I tore it down for inspection.

The next three years are ones I would rather forget when it comes to this car.

I made a mistake in trying to buy an LS1. What I would give to not deal with bogans (read: rednecks) again... Ended up $3.5k down the drain and nothing to show for it. :facepalm:

Before I tore the SR out though, I bought a camera and tried to work out how to use it. Failed miserably. This is how the car looked the last time it had rego.

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I can hear you groan from here. Don't judge me. :ugh:

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Stickers were cool 5 years ago. :coolugh::deke:

If you visited my blog, you will notice the lack of updates. I'm attempting to fill in the blanks between then and now, and will update here once I've gotten it sorted (too many pics, so little time).

[Joobie610]

So skipping ahead a bit, I'll start getting to the good stuff.

I mentioned using parts from my old Skyline in this car. I pilfered the 5 bolt half shafts for the added strength, the center to go with (as you can't use the skyline half shafts with the 180 center) and rear case for the bigger oil capacity and cooling capabilities.

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Everything is only dummy fit in this pic. I have bought all PBM arms for the rear, and am getting new bushes pressed into the standard knuckles. When I can afford it, I'll be upgrading to the new style PBM drop knuckles.

You can read my re-shim guide - full of images - here: http://ziptiemotorsports.com.au/that-should-feel-diff-erent/

While the back end was apart, I bought a set of GKTech reinforcement plates for the rear subframe and had my friends workshop weld them in, re-spray the frame and burn the old bushes out.

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Bought new solid subframe risers as the car won't be my daily.

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And new goodies to suit the M-Spec r32 brakes all around. Project Mu deliciousness.

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And QFM HPX for the calipers which are a 'performance/street' pad. I have friends who run and rave about them.

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With any luck, the callipers will be back from the powdercoaters before the year is out, but I won't hold my breath. Getting them coated in black with a small silver flake through the clear.

[Joobie610]

Engine wise, I've decided I'm sticking with the SR20 for now. I really want to run an RB26, but I also want to drive the car sometime within the next 10 years, and the RB just isn't financially viable. Instead, I'll blow all my money on the tractor motor.

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I bought this off a friend. No idea what I did with the other pictures of the head, but I will get some more ASAP.

The head was stripped and rebuilt on the standard bottom end (roughly 60,000kms) using all new Brian Crower gear.

- 264 deg. camshafts in/ex with 12mm lift
- Adjustable cam gears
- Single springs with titanium retainers and billet locks
- New or upgraded (I'm not sure, and not hugely stressed) valves
- New valve guides

The engine also had a new oil pump, was decked and a slightly larger than standard Apexi MLS head gasket fitted with an s15 timing chain tensioner (better version I'm told).

When I bought it, my friend pulled it out of his r32 coupe after only travelling about 20,000kms. For the time being, it will stay together as I know it works and will comfortably make 250rwkw which is my eventual aim.

Started buying a few new bits for it:

Rocker cover with shaved breathers and -10AN fittings welded on in place.

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Not a fan of the black crinkle coat. Will be getting it blasted and re-painted at some point similar to my friends workshop car. Will have the Ziptie Motorsports logo milled into it too.

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While I've been cleaning the motor up, I sent all of the engine brackets away for blasting and repainting in gloss black for that OEM kind of feel.

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Have been sorting an oil filter relocation and cooler while I'm at it. TAARKS relocation block, GREX filter housing with inbuilt thermostat and a homebrand cooler core (only because I picked it up for $20).

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Greddy Gauges pictured are 2x Temp and 1x Pressure. Have asked my friend at Proximity (the local workshop I keep mentioning) to order me an ATTAIN gauge pod for s13 whenever his next shipment comes through.

[tricky_ab]

I don't think the pictures are large enough...

[rawgarage]

Hahaha what's going on in here?

[Joobie610]

I don't think the pictures are large enough...

Yeah, shit links, my bad. Fixed it.

Hahaha what's going on in here?

At a guess, I edited the first post. Waiting on mod approval again?

[Joobie610]

As for round things, I've managed to snag some of my favourite wheels of all time. They'll be refurbished and possibly widened before the car is finished.

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SSR SP1 Professor
17x8 -10
17x9 -9

Not a huge fan of the widths, but the offset is pretty spot on. Thats the 17x8 on the rear with a few degrees of camber haha

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I'm probably going to sell this pair and try to find some 18x10 in decent offset for the rear. Will make the guards fit the wheels.

New centre caps to suit the wheels.

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Couple of quick pics of the car as it has been moved in and out of the shed.

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[drewr4411]

I like your persistence but that s15 was gorgeous. I don't know if I could switch to a s13 after owning that.

[scottie]

Quality build going on here. I am excited to see how this S13 hatch comes out!

[Joobie610]

I like your persistence but that s15 was gorgeous. I don't know if I could switch to a s13 after owning that.

Thanks, but the 15 just wasn't me, I prefer the popup 80's style. For street driving, it was the same as the 180 with a slightly newer interior ('99 vs '97). I couldn't really tell the difference chassis wise.

Quality build going on here. I am excited to see how this S13 hatch comes out!

Cheers! I've learnt the hard way about buying cheap parts. Won't be making that mistake again.

[Joobie610]

I haven't posted this car online really. Thinking a few people might appreciate it.

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It's my misso's JZX110 daily. 1JZ-GTE auto. We imported it from Japan through Iron Chef Imports. 2001 model with 24,000kms on the clock, auction grade 4.5A.

It's what Japan got instead of the Camry...

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Have done a few little things to it.

Powerhouse Amuse Titanium cat-back exhaust. Sooo pretty!

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And just recently I got around to fitting an Apexi Intake kit

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I wasn't hugely impressed with the casting of the AFM housing.

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So I cleaned it up a little. Not perfect, but better.

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Out with the old

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Filter was a bit manky

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Transferred the AFM

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Bolted it in. Almost done.

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Brackets line up with standard holes. Kit came with all new bolts.

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Done!

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Will post more about the 180 soon.

[Joobie610]

Keeping on with the gathering parts theme, I ordered this at the same time as the Apexi intake kit. Even though Greddy Japan didn't have any in stock on the Thursday, I had it in my hot little hands the following Friday. Ridiculous.

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I'm not sure if they normally work over weekends, but they were making calls on the Sunday to say that it was currently being cast and will be shipped the following day. Couldn't believe it. Makes me want to build a Greddy demo car haha

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That scratch happened during transport, but I'm not fazed in the slightest as the plenum will be going for powder coating some time in January.

Christmas! Woo!

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My brakes came back from the coaters on Christmas Eve. So happy with how they turned out. Ink black powder with a silver flake through the clear.

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Will be rebuilding the rears in the next few days as I've had seal kits for a while now. Still need to order seal kits for the front.

Also got a couple of dress-up parts from my better half as the fat man only got me star wars stuff haha

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[soundboy]

Looks nice man.

[SoundEfx]

Good start with the 180.
But for goodness sake, please don't crash this one....lol

[Joobie610]

Looks nice man.

Thanks! [emoji1]

Good start with the 180.
But for goodness sake, please don't crash this one....lol
Hahaha yeah... I really should put some perspective in behind that.

Both the 32 and the 15 were crashed Street drifting. Before anyone jumps on and calls me a fuckwit, hear me out.

So until 2013 I was living in a place called Townsville. It's way up north near the best places to see the great barrier reef. The closest raceway that held/allowed drift events was 1400kms away.

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While it shouldn't really be justification for it, I've only really been able to afford multiple cars (tow car and drift car) very recently. On top of that, the costs for travelling that far for a 4 hour event are rather prohibitive.

Ever since 2012 though (after I blew up the sr) there has been a local club called MADDinc, running events on a go-kart track in Proserpine. On top of that, I moved to Mackay which is 4-5 hours south of Townsville and only 1.5 hours away from prossy.

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I've grown up a bit since then too, and go well out of my way to discourage Street drifting/dragging/racing. I also became the unofficial event photographer for MADDinc and while I've only driven 1 event, I've been attending and helping run/promoting through photos and videos the events since the club started.

In the last month, I've also taken on Presidency of MADDinc (it's a not-for-profit club) and am trying to keep the local events running which is harder than you might think. People are still reluctant to travel that far which really shits me. I guess they use distance as an excuse to get away with streeting so I really can't judge.

[Corbic]

Neat Build.

Toyota had me freaked out for a second, looks like a EM/EK Civic front. Oh Toyota.

[rellik27]

Looking good so far

Neat Build.

Toyota had me freaked out for a second, looks like a EM/EK Civic front. Oh Toyota.

Lol I thought the exact same thing.

[Joobie610]

Neat Build.

Toyota had me freaked out for a second, looks like a EM/EK Civic front. Oh Toyota.

Looking good so far



Lol I thought the exact same thing.

Cheers lads. Most people here think its a corolla from front on haha. Honda scene is pretty small.

Had a little bit of time to work on the car lately, so I started prepping to rebuild the rear callipers. Turns out that the kits don't have the mating o-rings, and the only ones I could find at work ended up having too much protrusion. Will need to pick some up from the local supplier.

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Really need to clean up this shambles. Too much tooling sitting around. Need to get a job where I can keep it all at work. #firstworldproblems

Probably a good thing that I didn't have the o-rings, as the way some of these parts looked was doing my head in.

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The pin closest to the camera was still dirty, the one further away has been hit with brake cleaner and a light sand. As these are the retaining pins for the pad, I couldn't bring myself to drive the car knowing they were in this condition. I ended up ordering new pins all around. They'll come with the seal kits and a new brake light switch stopper (the green plastic bit on the pedal lever) as I've replaced it on every Nissan that I've owned.

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Happy with how the retaining springs were coming up.

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No real corrosion, just some light marking. Came off with a quick light sand. Ran out of sandpaper, will get more and finish sanding the tight crevasses before fitting.

Didn't take a pic of the pin retainers, but they're fine. Will do so when I assemble the callipers.

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Got bored with taking photos of the brakes for no real reason, so I started chopping the loom up for relocation. So far, I've cut out all the sections that I will need to run up to the headlights/horn/Air con receiver-dryer. I'm going about it similar to CamryOnBronze and running those up each frame rail under the guard. My plan was to run the relay box under the dash, but put the fuse box into the battery box. I'll have to wait and see when I get closer to the finish line. For now, here is what I cut out of the loom.

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Lots more to come in that department.

While I was online ordering things, I got a bit carried away. I'm getting a price for an ORC twin plate kit shipped, so hopefully that won't be much more than I'm expecting. The purchase price is cheaper than RHDJapan, just hoping they don't rape me on shipping and tax.

So the twin plate would normally kill an SR box after the first clutch kick. So, I kinda gave the standard box to a friend in exchange for modifying some steering components (they'll be done in the next week I hope, so more on that later). Not really an issue, because I bought a z33 6-speed off him a couple of years ago when he was short of cash.

Again, I got carried away when ordering and decided that the best conversion kit is made in Australia by one of the ID boys, Para.

https://www.facebook.com/InsaneDrifters/

No such thing as a 'Pro' drifter here really. These boys are competing at the highest level in Australia though, so that's kinda the same thing.

I'm sending my bell housing down to him in Victoria this week for machining. It gets machined, matched to a plate and dowelled before he test fits it to make sure it all goes together properly.

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It comes with a custom made braided line (I'm getting mine done in black), single piece tail-shaft (optional extra, you can get a front half only and keep the two-piece), and a gearbox crossmember that lowers the rear of the box slightly, and still allows use of the standard rubber s13 mount (I'll end up buying a nismo one). But that isn't even the best bit!

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It's the newest design shifter. Comes out in the standard location and even features reverse lock-out. Much excite, many wow. No modification of the trans tunnel needs to be made, and everything clears without the need to bash the crap out of your chassis.

I did ask if the lean would affect the motor or the tailshaft pinion angles, and he assures me that it all works fine. The rear of the motor is down approx. 3mm from standard, and that the tailshaft angles work correctly. That includes the single piece ones used in many 350rwkw+ cars down south. If it does look a bit suss when I fit it up though, I'll probably machine or space the diff housing to suit the angles better.

[Joobie610]

Didn't order the ORC as the supplier was giving the ring around and trying to get more money out of me as the list price was apparently listed as a twin plate instead of a single. Didn't matter that the images showed a twin. Told them to jog on and bought this instead.

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Hopefully it will pair with the z33 box without issue.

[pjurisprudencia]

oh man, that super coppermix is looking sick!!!

[tricky_ab]

I like where this is going...

[Joobie610]

Not really much of an update, have spent too much time out of town lately. And I broke my DSLR at a drift event recently (it got wet) so phone pics are shit.

Anyway, I decided to start dummy fitting a few parts to see what I need ordered to finish the temporary motor. Started putting the intake on the SR, and worked out which hoses need to be ordered. That will happen over the easter weekend.

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I also picked up a few suspension goodies this afternoon.

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I'll take some better photos over the weekend when I mount them.

Rack has been moved forward about as far as possible (~30mm from memory), lcas extended 25mm and boxed, and a custom power brace that has been chopped for low cars before being boxed.

Oh and the TAARKS box is full of brand new, genuine Nissan bolts ex Japan. Big lead time on those mofos. Ordered over a month ago. Worth every cent to make sure I have the right gear. Just a shame they dont sell the brake calliper bolts separately.

So much more stuff coming. Waiting sucks.

Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

[futures14drift]

Nice build man i love the attention to detail on this one. That Toyota is a crazy car. i wish i could spend a few years of my life overseas!

[Joobie610]

Today's plan:

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I got the PBM stuff a while back, but decided to fix up the Subframe, do the bushes etc before fitting.

I also took a few more pics of the Proximity gear.

Power brace:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/d741559a4976bd51da3311509f672e88.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/e34a6342573546e2b5a87a745dce371c.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/9afeb5c1e99b9a5000673aadce50b431.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/8265506a8dc8bb6dde7c98f98f73f0aa.jpg

LCAs with new bushes and balljoints:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/e889fd76d1216d885d18d5dba5796dc1.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/f9b39dba3e21efc4cbb80eb1fc21c00b.jpg

Front Crossmember:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/202d993cc427dcdeb75778041546c97a.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/2ca60e0b2cb92400e7060b5a7ff8f14f.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160325/37d8b5eb618a46a2a3b6d2cb68f5df16.jpg


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[Joobie610]

Nice build man i love the attention to detail on this one. That Toyota is a crazy car. i wish i could spend a few years of my life overseas!
Cheers man. Trying to do it the right way so it'll last.

The 110 is a good car. Bit boring, but better than my Patrol haha

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[tricky_ab]

Glad to see you're still plugging away on this thing!

[Joobie610]

Glad to see you're still plugging away on this thing!
Haha yeah, I'm not in any rush! Been a few years now, will probably be a few more yet :-/

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[Joobie610]

I gon dun goofed. HR31 GTSX Coupe.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160409/d6c172729ad90cd372bced19211ccd58.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160409/1d32c9d404d633e7024def7bb8fb5223.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160409/b8d1056a8cc023d9abe27f91fae0a6cd.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160409/ddd20cea4cf60f9b2202ceff56f50c9a.jpg

Don't let the pictures fool you, it is rough. Like housepaint and brush touchups rough. Estimate $2k and it will be drivable as a daily.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160409/bd7f4bd7952db64005a16ad96308049b.jpg

Build thread here: http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=158972.0

Have parts for the 180 arriving this week while I'm away for work :-/ Should be pretty interesting stuff though.

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[Joobie610]

I get all my parts from YAJ sent to my friends workshop by his contact. Usually with other bits and pieces to save on postage or protect something fragile. It really helps with some things that I can't be home for, because the last thing I want is something valuable stolen from my front door/driveway.

Well, today my friend sent me this photo:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160412/9e4f7bea7f5f1fcbe9977944465381a3.jpg

So. Damn. Excited.

[tuzzio]

wooooow in the og box

[Joobie610]

Internet, you are not prepared.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160422/f3a58441c452514e6a01a91819305fe9.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160422/0e4933a0d8a2727882baeeb1ad09f529.jpg

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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160422/a0693c5da077468db776e32507b0e0d2.jpg

Brand new, with all original stickers, instructions and clips. I love and hate YAJ.

Also got something else today that I haven't unwrapped yet. Will post pics tomorrow.

[Joobie610]

This rocked up friday.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160424/45e21ac4901ec2e6b67b879e50252f43.jpg

Z33 gearbox conversion kit by Insane Drifters in South Australia.

- Single piece tailshaft
- Shifter with reverse lockout
- Braided clutch line to suit 180sx master with 350z slave (slave is in the post)
- Crossmember adapter plates (need to find an s15 'C' type crossmember)
- Machined bellhousing and Adapter plate that was test fit before posting back to me just to ensure it all fits correctly

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160424/a715f2fc68c7d08650d50d84c9282bb2.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160424/07eda306b682af448fcad0f90f139986.jpg

Will get better pictures when it comes time to install it.

Reverse lockout works. Need to lift the shifter to get it engage. Works brilliantly, can feel the synchros mesh.

[Joobie610]

Long time between posts again, more because I can't afford mods when I'm too busy buying and importing other cars.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160624/40f7e7b19bb79266363e3d475a955391.jpg

My Japan car finally arrived! Stoked! Not that I built any of it. That credit has to go to Luke Huxham (the dude behind Maiham Media). Full spec list soon.

Been awake for 32 hours now and I've only just started to travel home. Time for some shut eye.

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[Joobie610]

Still hopeless at posting, still have all of my broken Datsuns.

Just got back to Aus after spending 3 weeks in Japan. Currently sitting in an airport waiting on a connecting flight. Highlight of my trip has given me some motivation to own a working car some time next year.

Drove this for 24 hours, cost a fortune, would do it again in an instant.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/8c3ec818b7b3e201fa573a911b066c4d.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/ace7725ed7d999d650422dae3843636f.jpg

Also bought a few things for the 180's while overseas. Which I can't find the photos of on my phone...

Rocket bunny tow strap from Bunny Cafe in Yokohama, and a Nismo billet oil cap from Nismo omori factory.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/c9cf43f72421c4c59b512a6dcf2ce361.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/401cf956e7531440bb6b4ff666540f3f.jpg

I also bought a watch while at Nissan HQ in Yokohama because, why not?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/f066cdefe0df92338ac8570756dff66f.jpg

Have heaps of other new bits at home too, just too busy to do much with any of it. Drift car has had a few minor tweaks at Proximity, but is still on the trailer since getting it home from there lol.


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[Joobie610]

Merry Christmas from the land downunder.

It's 1:30am Christmas morning, and I'm out at work, babysitting some big diggers that aren't actually digging, because no one else is stupid enough to be working nights over the holiday season... At least it's a cool 22deg Celsius.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/706527d321b7dbe737d0b13ee3fdbb79.jpg

So I figured this is the perfect time to have a catch up on where my cars are at.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/cdca0854ebf5665080bdac5be68ced60.jpg

The Japan car is finally off the trailer. Couldn't drive it off as the master cylinder decided to start bypassing... It's front end is in a million pieces now too, but I don't have photos because it went from no clouds to bucketing down in the length of time it took to get the crossmember out.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/3fd18f1b9c3686ef275796f32331134e.jpg

Old one bottom, new one top. Also found out that one of my front struts are bent and only compressing to half their stroke. I've no idea how or when it happened and I'm not impressed. More money to be spent *sigh*

Had a care package from gktech and a second from Taarks arrive, ready to get the car going for the upcoming QR Matsuri in March.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/afbd90e29aeaffa28a68e65d2bc8d193.jpg

Seal kits and hoses for z33 box, Sr power steering rack/pump/cooler, clutch master, main seals, few other bits for added reliability and in the hope that the poo Sr won't leak.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/31f0477fecb491b143354520fa90ad4b.jpg

Wheel nuts, z33 gearbox crossmember, tie rods/ends, etc. For the Japan car, r31 and JZX110.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/e9200cd193c2e06a5432f6ee87975c77.jpg

So the Japan car needs a few things before the event, and that means raiding the old car for parts. Not a bad thing, as having a dedicated dori car means I can have a clean Street car that doesn't need to attend drift events. Will see where it ends up parts wise, and what needs doing before I decide it's new direction.

For now though, the Japan car to do list is bigger than Ben-Hur. Will take progress photos when I'm home in a few days.

Here's a couple of photos I've been using as phone backgrounds, just because it's Christmas.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/50f26616d9e247fa60c7bc6a8991c96f.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/36936d7971736bbf948f3c9550fb0010.jpg

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[nichthen]

Cool thread man, you should come to some a Sydney event one day!

You have Raleigh international raceway though, probably 3x better than Sydney motorsport park for drifting!

[Joobie610]

Cool thread man, you should come to some a Sydney event one day!

You have Raleigh international raceway though, probably 3x better than Sydney motorsport park for drifting!
Cheers man, will be on the cards for late next year. Just a shame it's a 2 day trek to get there. That's assuming nothing goes wrong...

Weather is terrible here at the moment. Open tool bag, rain, close tool bag, stops.

Have been raiding parts off the Aus car for the Jap car to get it going before matsuri.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161227/c79809119454cc0d2c567f24bfaeeec0.jpg

S15 knuckles with a 50mm drop. Used TAARKS knuckle adapters to so I don't have to drill coilovers/use bigger bolts.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161227/8ee2f8aa57b2364e160bc32621fbe62a.jpg

S13 lcas, extended 25mm, boxed, new bushes and balljoints.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161227/9bf997f70c4c63c5446ebcb05e15a7b1.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161227/941d96a25c7b28ddcb30260fb2fb1f50.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161227/699a0c416f0a35b751072adc2b00d6a2.jpg

I can't get a decent photo to show how this really looks, but the ARC sump is now the lowest thing on the front of this car. I need to figure a way of protecting it, and the only sure fire way that I can think of is to raise the engine. Going to order some Nismo mounts and hope it gives me extra clearance.

[Joobie610]

With the weather still being bloody temperamental, and my shed not being powered, I couldn't get much time to work on the car yet again. Still managed to put these together.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161228/94f8f3f415333a418d6733ef1fc31ea9.jpg

Needs new pin clips and probably some anti-vibration/squeak shims, but they're good enough for this mangsuri. Ended up using some painted grade 12.9 cap screws and flat washers. Will change it to zinc plated and thick locking flat washers when I change the pad clips etc.

Found out my 326 power coilovers are going to be here mid February. Will keep plugging along with the bent zenky racing gear until then. Got asked what colour I wanted, replied with 'surprise me'. Apparently the springs don't come in black.

[Joobie610]

Got home today after nightshift last night, and it was raining. Again. On and off.

Had the shits and decided to crack on anyway, only stopping a couple of times for heavy rain.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170123/b8745f5fa63a4f33c83bedcb816f6fe3.jpg

Ended up buying a cheap Bride off a friend, as the Thrash seat was taking skin off my arm when I was driving it in Japan (I was at Ebisu for a week straight though). Threw it in the drivers side and moved the thrash seat to the passenger side. Managed to sell the type x passenger seat in 5 minutes to a friend of a friend.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170123/71d9e04ac0e5c55634a08104a1358bc9.jpg

Finally got around to starting on the rear suspension.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170123/5eee54d596f7ece049f584baadbbb6ca.jpg

Should have a new old half shaft in the shed, this one has a torn boot. LCA is off for a new balljoint, handbrake cables are out. The car actually had a spacer for the standard caliper with a larger rear rotor. It's going up for sale once the other side is off.

Hopefully if the weather is good, I'll get the 350 gearbox in tomorrow.

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[Joobie610]

Weather wasn't good. Got the old box out, clutch/flywheel etc off. Spent an hour or two chatting to a lad who bought my old type x seat.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170131/6c178f93399f7b4276c129847d6f5b31.jpg

Need to replace the heater hoses and rear main seal.

Dropped by the workshop today to pick up new parts

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170131/81c04ff13250cb29b00af1abf9e2d409.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170131/f198a0aa5767900891c616836cd275c6.jpg

326Power Japan coilovers.

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[Joobie610]

Quick photo dump of work I got done last time I was home, and just a couple (lol) of photos of the 326 coilovers.

Rears

Rears aren't anything special, but they look cool, and go pretty damn low.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/a8a615ed61d73dea3f9b56f868467016.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/5a100186d2528c93aabdccd140bbe84a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/b71aa27260235a4f8f2c88133036c03f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/1de668c10c4d6481967d7606d850f381.jpg

Fronts

Fronts have more adjustment than you can poke a stick at. I really like how much camber you can wind in/out. If you got really keen, you could make it run lots of camber in the knuckle join, and lots of caster in the mounting plate. Really cool bit of gear.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/5e96677eb522104ba2417a64d34c3d68.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/a25764da2efa964e97bc8d848f4c52f6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/abc41b403490a4b44bb323b99569d634.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/3eb7d584bc8085decbd7be43873d5a08.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/6a9b41cdb4cad876bdcc50beb40d927f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/28b056fce04c23993b9ee62afa72d0c1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/ff46128edba9a4dd94f5e14fd31c33e8.jpg

My new C spanners are cooler than the rest of the car. Didn't want to use them in case I damaged them haha

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/07dfdc7d93f290857cb5559dcde970d2.jpg

New rotors all around, to accompany the rebuilt callipers, new pads, braided lines.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/cfcf5ad8ba411e205208ec71b978aba5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/ac0e98de6863e7152e70f387298a9dea.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/6c74d7ede830f49a0b5fa366b0cd7f0a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/c20f302401c35e756e92092cc3eff73b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/958dc8ad280e499c1e58103c986a7771.jpg

Instagram photo of the hovercraft.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170209/bf1abcb5f84cb6d0ebf0f263a5d9b245.jpg

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[Malik]

just keep going

[Joobie610]

Just picked up some wheels off a friend.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170210/e243d9197cd965d66f35751a0959f460.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170210/69a3e83eab5bf2a26f07fdea64b712d7.jpg

18x8 +32 Face 1
18x9.5ish +30ish Face 2

Was given stickers, center caps and the genuine nuts - all brand new - to suit. Will mount them properly in the morning I hope.

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[rawgarage]

Nice shit all around...

[Joobie610]

Got one rear fitted with a 25mm spacer.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170210/27963c5320b770508cb67ebefaeab799.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170210/d77ca61b22dfa4add607e6b453f397c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170210/e9cc99768c6ede8f55cea0264134fae0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170210/91925f4f0f0707e317d703db6646f966.jpg

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[Joobie610]

I've been busy working lately, so the car had to go to Proximity for the last few bits before Matsuri this weekend. Went in yesterday and put a few things back together before throwing it on the rollers.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/26db353f45b123e80c3d367126c5dd08.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/0f8d740ba5406938d30545cbd454a112.jpg

When you don't build the car yourself, you always find dramas.

Made 294hp on 16psi at 4.5krpm before it blew out the spark. Have splitfires and new plugs going in it today, run it back up again this afternoon, throw more boost at it. Hopefully 350hp and 700nm on 98 octane pump fuel.

The Jap tune was queer. Huge hole in the fuel at 5krpm, timing was all over the place, and pacey said it was knocking like crazy.

Cold start sucks, idle kinda sucks, but I told the guy tuning it to leave that. Racecar.

Ecu kept dropping out, battery seems to have dropped a cell, so new one of them in tomorrow - dry cell, motorbike battery.

My dodgy hybrid ebc wouldn't go past 6psi. The old Profec control unit was stolen before it came to Aus, so I wired in a Profec B spec II to get it going. That failed, so I fit a Turbosmart Boost T for the time being.

Plans are:

Today, fit new battery, coilpacks, new regapped plugs. Run it up with more boost, and if it doesn't knock, 22psi will be where it sits.

Wednesday, fit rear wheels, set coilover heights, finish tidying car up, rewire trailer.

Thursday, pack up car and Ute.

Friday, drive the 1300kms to the track, get there before 6pm and get the car scrutineered, set up camp.

Saturday/Sunday, try not to break my gearbox.

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[Joobie610]

Matsuri was a success! Drove the car on the trailer Sunday afternoon to head home. Stoked.

Tune was horrible, trying to fix shit was horrible, was worried that I was going to blow something up.

Car ended up making 294hp at one point before it maxed out the z32 AFM and cut spark. Found a major leak in the turbo to intercooler pipe around the bov. Got the boys at Proximity to weld a bung in to block the bov (no pics, will get some) and ran without one in the hope of making more power. Fixed the leak, still maxed the afm. I thought it might have been the resolution in the ecu, but that would make it run lean (I think).

In the end we went with 16psi, 250hp and I can't remember the torque figure. Lots.

When I bought the car, I remember the ebc settings were 18psi, 21psi, 24psi and 25psi. I drove it in Japan on 21 in the dry and 18 in the wet without any dramas. I feel like the ebc was getting a false input reading from somewhere, or there is something going on with the engine timing.

Anyway, Matsuri was awesome.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170403/729c3b0e645838831a74a841529432fc.jpg
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Had an issue blowing fuel pump fuses, so I dodged up the wiring (no pics again) by running an inline fuse from the battery to the fuel pump and negative switched it in the dash. Pump makes some serious noise now.

Car survived the Cyclone last week too. Had to keep it out of the shed, as other cars and tools are more important.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170403/0ea31b839dc53a7ba1ee3b0504940516.jpg

Most of the trees in the background are now woodchips. One of them went through a neighbours house. No injuries thankfully.

And because I'm a sucker for punishment, I bought a new engine setup for this car off a mate. Too cheap to pass up.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170403/e03f82d1734da0519fcab231efb4df47.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170403/bc7280e4263e1414feb68f5a64bf1cce.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170403/d254f4e46098ce0c7ef3250a53362cab.jpg

All genuine parts. RB25 was built by JHH, who are the best engine shop in QLD, and quite possibly Australia. Nitto bottom end, tomei solid head, ARP studs and ACL bearings throughout, Precision 6266, 6boost steampipe manifold, greddy intake, Plazmaman throttle body. All the electronics were junk, but that's fine with me. Came with RB25 box and a custom NPC clutch/flywheel kit. Should be good for 600hp at the rears. Will destroy gearboxes like they're going out of fashion.

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[Joobie610]

Holy shit it’s been over a year since I’ve posted anything in here.

Have been busy with life and the cars have been on the back burner. Bought a house, got engaged, been overseas for holidays and generally destroyed my bank account.

Anyway, last week I was chatting with some mates and decided to try and get a Matsuri ticket again for October. They usually sell out in 30ish seconds, so I didn’t think I’d have much of a chance. Jumped on the pc Sunday morning - bam - got a ticket and a garage. Just shy of $600.

Walked out to the shed on Sunday morning.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/93db708bd2503b9dea61a968d5557c6e.jpg

Haven’t been in there since we moved in. Turns out I underestimated how much work I still had left...

Cleaned a small patch of room around the engine to slap it together and started work. Replaced most of the coolant hoses with genuine and a couple with some silicone ones. All of which I’ve had in boxes for a long while.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/6187a73556e81c465f69b82ece2e5f33.jpg

Dummy fit Greddy intake manifold, Sard FPR and Xspurt 3/4 length 1000cc e85 compatible injectors.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/e333223c3d6c63285fb5993104e14dd8.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/e1a5e072a17d36931b42ef1b8550d954.jpg

Ordered the wrong size o-ring and ended up needing some Proflow adapters to fit the rail.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/b7e9e37ad132bca901618e23546e1bb0.jpg

The Sard rail only has 3 mounting tabs and the Greddy manifold is missing the mounting location for the front most tab.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/566b15a0c1db0acf10bb867559a89e32.jpg

Made up a bracket on my smoko break at work. Freehand out of 25x3 stainless flat bar. Needs a tidy and a polish, but not bad for 3am.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/a22636d66bfb906cd4813c49b9a20317.jpg


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[Joobie610]

I should mention that it is less work to put the SR into the street car than it is to get the track car finished, so I’m going that route.

I bought some titanium bolts to mount the intake and ti studs/nuts for the exhaust.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/1d649aa73dad86a0a22be1c90af6274a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/690d4d6f7e93e0273e646539c1ac315c.jpg

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Turbo needs some work on the exhaust side.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/da8bab20718335f8a7394fb2960242a4.jpg

Going to weld the wastegate shut. Have a Turbosmart compgate on order with v-band clamps to be welded to the manifold.

I also had all of the ancillary brackets blasted and painted ages ago. Will be getting new hardware for them at a later date.

The ti bolts I’m using for the intake were ordered in the factory sizes - M8 x 35mm 1.25mm pitch. But a combination of not running washers and the Greddy intake flange being slightly thinner meant that I had to take 10mm off them.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/f080e475690715e87ed337085a441966.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180707/01e3f339d46058171e59754b003279d1.jpg

Haven’t fit them yet. Get home on Monday. Plan for next week is to bolt up the intake properly, finish hanging the ancillaries, few more engine goodies, finish the coolant plumbing, clutch, gearbox, in the car.

Need to drop the car to Proximity ASAP for the pipe work and oil/fuel lines.


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[Joobie610]

Plenty more things happened, made it to Matsuri. Car looked like this before I left

http://ziptiemotorsports.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/ZMS_4176-HDR.jpg

http://ziptiemotorsports.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/ZMS_4109.jpg

http://ziptiemotorsports.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/ZMS_4197-HDR.jpg

Couple of photos taken by DParkMedia (https://www.facebook.com/dparkmedia/)

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Still haven't finished unloading everything, too much stuff do to at home. Will post more this weekend I hope.

[PoorMans180SX]

The car looks really good man! Just fyi it's a good practice to use anti-seize on titanium threads to prevent them from galling.

[tuzzio]

Those underglow photos are fucking fantastic.

[Joobie610]

The car looks really good man! Just fyi it's a good practice to use anti-seize on titanium threads to prevent them from galling.

Thanks man! Definitely a 10 meter car, but sometimes the photos look ok haha!

I'm a firm believer that all threads should have either anti-seize or a locking compound on them. I had some 99% Moly stuff from work that went on all the threads in the head.

Those underglow photos are fucking fantastic.

Cheers! Glad someone else thinks they're cool. Probably my favorite part of the car haha #bringbackthe90s

[Joobie610]

Thought I might give a bit of a run down on how I got the car running for last Matsuri, and a few of the parts that I threw at the car. It was such a rush job that I didn't photograph everything, opting to get it done as quick as possible.

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New Nismo Thermostat to replace the factory SR one. Cleaned up the faces and resealed.

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Got the Greddy Intake Mani, Sard Rail and Xspurt Injectors all mounted up. Used the cut-down titanium hardware to mount the Mani, had to use what was at hand to mount the adapter plate. Have since used a stainless capscrew where the gold bolt is. Still need to fab up a new bracket that will fit at the bottom to make it pretty.

Before throwing the engine in the car, I decided to try and pretty up the bay. Didn't work that well as you'll see later on.

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Wheeled the car outside and hit the bay with a gurney.

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Cut out a bunch of old sheet that had been weld to try and cover the dodgy intercooler pipe holes.

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Bent some to the right shape, cut some other bits to size.

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Weld it all up, and started smoothing some bits. There was a heap of corrosion beginning to show under the paint on the strut towers, rad support and other places. Sand it all back, used rust converter where necessary and paint the bay with rattle-packs. I do plan on getting it redone properly at some point, but again, this was a super rush job and needed doing there and then.

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I'll probably have to get more photos at some point to show it, but the paint didn't dry. At all. It's still 'wet'. The cans that I used mustn't have had enough/any hardener. I paint it once and went out of town again for work. Came back home and tried to give it a second coat that immediately wrinkled. I was fuming.

[Joobie610]

Forgot to mention, I used a 3 inch holesaw to cut new holes for the piping before I paint it.

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I have a new phone, so all of these photos were uploaded to my website prior to getting rid of the old one. Not sure how, but they're all out of order. Trying to sort and organise which one goes where is hard. Soz. :doh:

Will try and upload more today/tomorrow.

[Joobie610]

So while I was waiting on the paint to dry, I got a few more things done.

I had previously dropped off the manifold to Proximity, who welded on the flange for the Turbosmart Compgate 40, so I dummy fit that up.

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Thought I'd pull the turbo apart for an inspection before running the car, as it hadn't been on this setup, and I was worried about the amount of time it had spent sitting. Glad I did.

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Not sure how it happened. I thought it was protected well enough where it was. Unless its been in there since the car came from japan, which means I drove this engine and turbo at a matsuri event with all the rust in there. Not sure I want to know.

Ended up using CLR, degreaser, wire brushes, scourers, wire wheels, you name it and I probably used it to clean out all of the rust. It doesn't look good in this photo, but I used some light grit sandpaper to smooth most of it out. Not worried about balancing it. Bush bearings are less prone to vibration issues imo.

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Not sure if I've mentioned, but the turbo is a bitsa, with a front housing from a Greddy t517z, oil cooled, god knows what rear. But it works really well, even after the huck job I'd done cleaning the corrosion.

Made up some new turbo oil lines. They're the reverse colours of everything else I've put on the car, but that was all they had in stock, and the black nylon braid probably wouldn't deal with the turbo heat as well.

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You can probably tell, but a couple of years ago I had all the old SR brackets sent off for sandblasting and repainting. Kinda wish I'd gone powdercoat, but meh. Used all those parts when reassembling.

Really wish I'd bought more bolts. Going to be replacing them when I change the engine - this ones about to blow - but more on that later.

[Joobie610]

So the last car (proximity stickers) ended up getting the SR box and single plate nismo thrown back in to get to matsuri. We worked out that we couldn't get the parts to space the throw-out with the CD gearbox. This time, we made sure of it.

Started by digging out the old input shaft bearing. You can see how worn it was here.

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Got it out eventually.

Used the shockproof oil to bleed the new bushing before fitting. Would not recommend/10. My fingers killed me after this. Will use engine oil everytime from now on.

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So went about fitting up the clutch (not really any photos). You can see here that you can't disassemble the Super Coppermix Twin as far as most. The center-plate uses a plate-spring setup to separate the discs, and I couldn't work out a way to remove the pins without damaging them. Cleaned what I could with brakeclean and a rag. Bolt it together.

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No pictures of it together though :doh:

Knowing that the spacing for the throwout was going to be wrong, I spent a long while looking over this forum, a bunch of other websites, talking to a friend at the local Nissan dealership to work out the right length bearing and carrier. Ended up using a new factory throwout bearing, the CD009 throwout fork, spacing the CD throwout fork pivot by 3mm and bought a new D22 Navara/Frontier (I think. It was longer than the SR carrier) bearing carrier.

Put it all together with super expensive, super high temp anti-seize.

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New z33 Slave Cylinder to go with. Got it all aligned and assembled. For reference, I used a genuine s13 Master and Insane Drifters braided line. Once it was all together, I could adjust the pedal and now it feels like a (rather grabby) factory clutch.

EDIT: Found a photo of the clutch!

http://ziptiemotorsports.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/IMG_0941-e1552006289577.jpg

[Joobie610]

Once it was all together, I spent the day fitting the engine. The trans tunnel had been bent (pretty sure its damage from engine/gearbox removal, not clearancing) before I owned the car. Didn't have to fit/remove the driveline at all. Went in first try. Cheering.

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Used some GKTech solid mounts I've had a box for years to mount the engine and box. Hate myself for it. I've got new poly versions ready to go, so that'll be happening in the next few weeks.

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Used GKteck CD gearbox crossmember with solid SR mount to fit the box. Not that you can really see.

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At any rate, the Insane Drifters kit is mint. Fits perfectly. That shifter alignment is sooo good! This is before it was bolted in properly. It sits further to the left once everything was tightened up.

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Started fitting up a bunch more things. Started running the hoses, cables, harnesses etc.

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By this time I had slapped most of the ancilliary parts back in.

Radiator came out of the japan car. It's a Koyo triple pass, copper core deal, built for an s14/s15. Had to custom make top brackets, but used new genuine rubber mounts top and bottom.

Fit the Tomei FPR on the strut tower with a ProFlow gauge because I didn't order the Tomei one.

All of the brakes are the same from the last car. I used the same lines too, so it has a BM44 Master, repainted booster, GKTech ABS Delete kit and GKTech S13 to R32 braided hoses.

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To get the factory throttle setup to work with the new intake manifold, I got ended up fitting an S14 throttle wheel to the end of the shaft. Kept the S13 wheel attached, as the TB uses the s13 wheel as stoppers for open and closed.

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[feito]

I believe that first picture with the underglow is gonna get me into underglows. Tafuq man! I never liked those before. Also, mad props for not going tubed front end.

[Joobie610]

Ran out of things I could do up front at this point. So while waiting on the car to head in to proximity for piping, I started working on the fuel system.

Pulled the old pump out and found this.

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Not cool. Pulled the pump setup out of the Japan car and found this.

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Much better. After a trip to Proximity for some more parts, I put it all together and threw it in the tank.

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I also replaced all of the hoses between the tank and the hard-pipes in the back. I even fit another fuel filter/screen made by proflow in this section, just in case.

At this point the car got taken to the workshop for final fitout. I was still trying to work out a wiring harness, hoses, filter locations, coolers, etc. A fair amount of the work I ended up doing will need to be replaced at some point. Not happy with how a lot of it turned out. It works, but it was definitely a rush job on my part.

[Joobie610]

I believe that first picture with the underglow is gonna get me into underglows. Tafuq man! I never liked those before. Also, mad props for not going tubed front end.

Haha cheers mate! #90sforever

Car won't ever get tubs or tubed front. It's already defectable, I don't need to give the 5-0 another reason to defect me. Also means I'll always have weak front wheels :down:

[Joobie610]

So I got the car moved to my friends workshop - mad shoutout to Chazza - that's attached to Proximity. He had plenty of space, a hoist and let me come and go without bothering any of the Proximity employees during business hours.

I immediately started working on the oil cooling system. I've somehow managed to acquire 2 Trust/Greddy remote mount filter systems with the built in thermostat, so I'm using one of those with a Project Mu filter that Proximity had in stock.

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As you can see, I made up a bracket out of some scrap ally plate that was laying around the shop, gave it a quick clean using some purple metal polish and attached it using some factory mounting holes in the chassis. I made it high enough so that I could fit 90degree fittings onto the bottom ports that run along the chassis rail, out to an oil cooler mounted between the intercooler and radiator. I will move this in future, as I want to refit my A/C at some point.

Here is a terrible photo of how I've mounted the oil cooler.

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So, you can kind of see how I've got the cooler mounted. It's a bit of stainless pipe, where I've ground down some M6 nuts to make them cylindrical, pressed them into the pipe, tac welded them in and made a tab to fasten to the chassis. I've got the top mounted using the gold conical washer you can see in the rad support, the bottom is mounted the same way using another conical in the lower support.

I've used all black nylon braided line with polished fittings (so you can't scratch the colour off them) on this system.

I can't seem to find any photos of the finished product on the engine, but I've used a TAARKS (now EFI Performace) branded remote filter plate, which houses an oil temperature sensor. It's a bolt on, machine alloy plate, anodised black with polished fittings.

I also had Leon start to fab up my cooler piping. Because I love the Japanese style of building a car, I went for alloy pipes rather than stainless, donuts rather than lobster.

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While he was completing that, I started working on the interior, and electronics. I haven't gotten around to fitting the ZD, and I probably won't because I think it's fake (even though I paid the Defi tax), but I'm running a Power FC D-Jetro that came with the car when I bought it (9ish years ago).

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I've also relocated the fuse and relay boxes into the glovebox, but I'm not happy with how it's run, so I'll be making my own relay and fuse box setup in the future and mounting it in there properly. With the way I'm thinking of going, I won't be able to use the glovebox, but even my daily doesn't get driven very often with work being what it is.

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Here you can see I've mounted a motorcycle battery in the boot, in a Moroso Sealed Battery Box. I've used 0 gauge B&S (dual shield) cable, sheathed in whatever crap conduit I could find. It currently runs under the car, along the chassis rail. It needs re-doing at some point too, but it works for now.

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Not sure what I took this picture for, but everything is in dire need of a clean haha. For anyone curious, I'm using the drum handbrake out of my old R32, with Project Mu pads. After running this, and having driven other cars with Hydros, I'll never put anything else in a street car. Maybe a full comp car, but I still don't really see the point.

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My wiper arms had been painted blue by a previous owner, it was pretty nasty. Ended up re-painting them gloss black. Came out pretty good. Much better than I expected.

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Made up a fire extinguisher bracket out of some stainless strap. It picks up both seat mount bolts, and lets you bolt the extinguisher in place without the need to drill through the floor/carpet/mat. It's just eyeballed and bent in a vice then tig-weld together.

Photo post-wiring, pre-vacuum. I promise, I cleaned it :ugh:

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Not much left, then we're all caught up!

[Joobie610]

You can see in the underglow pics, that I went overfenders on the rear. While the left side rear quarter was fine, the right side had been replaced at some point. Badly.

I noticed what I thought was a bit of rust coming through the silver paint, so I took a pad sander to that section and found some really impressive bog work over a black black quarter panel.

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Everywhere I sand back was rusting under the original paint. Rather than cut off the entire rear section and find another, I figured I'd just go over-fenders and treat the rust at some point in future.

Looks horrible. Ended up welding and sealing the holes to make sure it's waterproof.

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Overfenders are just the cheaper 30mm Origin junk. Used conical washers and nut-serts thinking it would be easier to remove and replace them in future. Hate the way it looks. Have some other fenders I'll be ordering soon to replace these.

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First test-fit with it all on the ground.

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Leon managed to finish up the intercooler piping, and between myself and a couple of friends we got the rest of the plumbing and wiring sorted in record time.

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326 Power coilovers are the best. With the car sitting at its current height, there is still 30mm I can wind down the rear of the car before I start to impede on shock travel or spring preload.

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After talking with the boys at Proximity, one of the biggest issues they see with low-mount SR's, is this top hose melting/splitting from heat damage. To make sure I don't suffer from it, I bought a sheet of heat shield and made this section, and another section for the wiring near the turbo. The difference it makes on a temp gun is phenomenal. Would recommend/10.

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By now, the engine bay was pretty much finished.

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Time to throw it on the dyno.

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Hopefully I can find the Videos.

EDIT: I actually think the photo of how low the car sits was taken after it came off the dyno. I remember having to raise the car, as it would get stuck trying to drop between the rollers hahaha

[Joobie610]

DYNO TIME!!!

I had the car tuned by a good friend of mine, Jono from JP Tuning (https://www.facebook.com/jptune/). He did an awesome job, even though he hates me for it :keke:

n28RQfhoXo4

nHrww_vvbC0

o2PJlNFeoj4

--6C1vpKiQY

_a-NEQM_eO4

q0MlcOa3vIs

5_CWBQvIElE

Z8R86WQENfI

DtdbBCinYOY

Final dyno graph. Just shy of 350hp, with over 600nm of torque. Car cooks fourth gear at QR. Would hit fifth if I wasn't such a wuss.

http://ziptiemotorsports.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/ZiptieMS-1182.jpg