Another Sr20 no crank, no start. Out of ideas!

[Dboyizmlg]

Here is the situation...

Two days ago I get ready to go to work in the morning, like usual.
I go out to my drive way, jump in my 240 and I crank over the engine a couple times. Btw, the motor is tuned on E85 ethanol, so on cold mornings it's a PITA to start as I have to crank over the engine a couple times, let it rest for about 30 seconds to allow the starter to cool down.
Any ways, I crank it over about 4 times, wait 30seconds, try it again, wait 30seconds, and on the third attempt the engine won't turn over.
It makes a click noise only when I turn the key, which makes me belive the starter or battery.

Later that night when I return from work, I cleaned the battery terminals, check grounds, and brought a jumper. I give it a go, and again no crank.
Well no biggie, I have a spare starter in the garage. I swap that bad boy in, and again no crank....
Lol, at this moment I take the starter out, I bench test both of them and they both work!
I have checked fuses, and they are also good.

Only thing I can think about is the harness for the starter/alternator maybe be not getting enough juice.

Help please, gracias

[teh smithers]

Just an idea- it might be the ignition switch. I am by no means an expert in this matter, just throwing it out there.

[bmaddock]

Is your battery relocated? Do you have good size wiring running to the starter?

I wouldn't think it's your alternator or starter based off what you've tested and described. Sounds like battery/wiring issue.

[KAT-PWR]

Can you turn the motor over by hand?

[Gingersmurf]

It is probably your battery. i just had this problem in my daily. The battery did not have enough CCA (cold cranking amps) to power the starter. when i used a jumper you plug into the wall it would not start. Then i jumped the car off another cars battery, but i removed the leads from the old junk battery and it started fine. Got a new battery and its been fine.

[jdm>usdm]

^What he said. You just have a really dead battery.

[Dboyizmlg]

I can turn the engine over by hand, Battery is fully charged, I have 750cca more than enough!

I have battery relocated behind the passenger seat.
I also forgot to mention that I have a 12 gauge wire running straight from the starter to the cabin. I just simply grab the wire and make contact with the battery + post so it can crank over and start.
(KInda a kill switch)

[KAT-PWR]

So you are starting the car bypassing the ignition "start" position? I had a similar set up with my push button start. Although your issue is now different, next time you try to start the car turn the key all the way to start while you attempt to start it, the cold start wire will be engaged and should make you not have to crank it a million times to start.

[Gingersmurf]

I also forgot to mention that I have a 12 gauge wire running straight from the starter to the cabin. I just simply grab the wire and make contact with the battery + post so it can crank over and start.
(KInda a kill switch)

That is super sketchy...
anyways, If you have it cranking with it not starting; how is your fuel pump fuel filter and injectors doing? could be clogged and no fuel is making it into the motor

[Dboyizmlg]

So you are starting the car bypassing the ignition "start" position? I had a similar set up with my push button start. Although your issue is now different, next time you try to start the car turn the key all the way to start while you attempt to start it, the cold start wire will be engaged and should make you not have to crank it a million times to start.

thats how I have always been doing it... lol

[Dboyizmlg]

That is super sketchy...

Been doing it this way for 4 years

[ultimateirving]

I have been chasing a similar issue with the ignition just clicking. My car is apart but I have a few spots to check and so maybe you can review and see if anything applies to you.
To clarify, you have the starter solenoid wire ran thru the firewall and you use that to peovide a 12v signal and energize the starter ?

[Dboyizmlg]

I have been chasing a similar issue with the ignition just clicking. My car is apart but I have a few spots to check and so maybe you can review and see if anything applies to you.
To clarify, you have the starter solenoid wire ran thru the firewall and you use that to peovide a 12v signal and energize the starter ?

Correct!
My wire is hooked up to the tab that is meant to use for ignition switch.

[ultimateirving]

Correct!
My wire is hooked up to the tab that is meant to use for ignition switch.

Well you pretty much cut out a lot of possible bs by direct wiring it so that rules out quite a bit. gotta be in the wiring to the starter. What kind of wire are you using. Is it possible with these long ass cold starts your heating up that wire and causing an internal short somewhere along the line?
I can't imagine both starters would be bad either. Especially if they are bench testing perfectly fine. Check the voltage at the 12v + to the starter while someone engages the solenoid. Make sure you're getting at least 9-10v.

[Dboyizmlg]

Well you pretty much cut out a lot of possible bs by direct wiring it so that rules out quite a bit. gotta be in the wiring to the starter. What kind of wire are you using. Is it possible with these long ass cold starts your heating up that wire and causing an internal short somewhere along the line?
I can't imagine both starters would be bad either. Especially if they are bench testing perfectly fine. Check the voltage at the 12v + to the starter while someone engages the solenoid. Make sure you're getting at least 9-10v.

Lmao!
I just did this ten minutes ago, haha.
Thank you for your information!

I had my friend come over and give me a hand, we did this test and we where getting about 7v.
So you are on point!
The solenoid kicks it out, but the starter motor doesn't spin it, so I'm not getting the proper voltage to make it spin.
Looks like I need a new lower harness.

[jdm>usdm]

I can turn the engine over by hand, Battery is fully charged, I have 750cca more than enough!

I have battery relocated behind the passenger seat.
I also forgot to mention that I have a 12 gauge wire running straight from the starter to the cabin. I just simply grab the wire and make contact with the battery + post so it can crank over and start.
(KInda a kill switch)

Is the battery fully charged according to the voltage you read from your voltmeter and the CCA read from the battery's sticker? Or have you taken your battery to a parts store and had them test for actual CCA? If your ACTUAL CCA has tested to be 750A, then yes, you're good. But I've seen plenty of batteries that have sufficient voltage but no CCA.

Make sure you have good grounding from engine to chassis. I've also seen my fair share of cars not start due to this.

Furthermore, I know E85 will be harder to start than typical gasoline, but make sure your start enrichment wire is powered when the engine is turning over, as it pull timing and simultaneously fires all injectors to make starting easier.