Please help! Ka24de

[WidebodyS14]

Hey Zilvia, I have been having troubles with my car for the past few months but now it has just become unreliable. So to start things off the car is a 1996 S14 5 speed motor wise the car is all stock (KA24DE). The problem is you have to crank the car for at least 5 seconds while being on the throttle to get it started. It has a very rough idle and does not want to stay on. If you try to rev the car it will bog out. Recently the problem has gotten much worse half the time the car wont even start. When im driving around town the car has alot of short cuts in power usually around the 40-60 km/h range, While coming to a stop you have to put the clutch in and be revving the car to keep it on. Also on deceleration the car pops and backfires a ton im not sure if this is normal for a stock KA. It is definitely running rich as the plugs are completely black. Also if the car stalls out you have to just give it about 10-15 minutes of it sitting there for it to start back up. Only thing I have changed so far is the Coolant Temp Sensor and about 3 sets of plugs.

Please help me get this thing back on the road. Let me know if you guys have any questions, thanks in advance!

[corbin]

I'm no mechanic but I can tell you that "popping and backfiring a ton" is NOT normal for a stock KA24DE, lol.

[WidebodyS14]

Yeah thats what I thought too maybe its because of it running rich I guess? I also plugged in an OBD2 scanner and got no codes. Then I went to my ecu to check for sure, go to find the flashing light and there isnt one on the ECU:picardfp:

[jaybeatz19]

Could it potentially be an O2 sensor issue? That's the only thing I can think of that would cause it run that way.


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[WidebodyS14]

Could it potentially be an O2 sensor issue? That's the only thing I can think of that would cause it run that way.


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I had a question, a while back I tried pulling some codes off my ECU but there was no led on it. I have pulled codes off different ECU's so I know what I am looking for too. Is the OBD2 port the only way to pull codes off OBD2 cars? I was going to do the OBD2 test but that requires checking codes off the ECU after the test is complete. Would I do the test and check for codes using a scanner? Hopefully you or someone else can shed some light on this.

Update I have checked the MAF, TPS, Fuel Pump and injectors those all checked out good.

Thanks for the help so far guys!

[jaybeatz19]

So if all your input sensors and hardware are good, then it's the output sensors that could be making your car run that way.


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[kruked]

So if all your input sensors and hardware are good, then it's the output sensors that could be making your car run that way.


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WTF?

Stpdmssglngth

[jaybeatz19]

You said your MAF,TPS, injectors and fuel pump are good. MAF and TPS are are things that are measured as inputs for air and fuel. Your injectors and fuel pump is just hardware that delivers the fuel. The amount of fuel injected is based off of what comes in the motor. So if all of those things are good, the things that could hinder your motor from performing the way it should is what is coming out of it. If it's running rich and cutting your power, chances are that one of your output sensors are bad (hence why I thought O2 sensor)


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[Kingtal0n]

1. compression test
2. boost leak test (yes i Know you do not have a turbo do it anyways)
3. disconnect / change O2 sensor
4. basic tune-up: air filter, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, fuel filter

5. If problem persist after 1-4, begin diagnosis by changing the following OEM parts, from easiest/cheapest to more difficult/most expensive:
A: ecu
B: maf
C: coolant sensor
D: wiring harnesses

[WidebodyS14]

1. compression test
2. boost leak test (yes i Know you do not have a turbo do it anyways)
3. disconnect / change O2 sensor
4. basic tune-up: air filter, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, fuel filter

5. If problem persist after 1-4, begin diagnosis by changing the following OEM parts, from easiest/cheapest to more difficult/most expensive:
A: ecu
B: maf
C: coolant sensor
D: wiring harnesses

Compression test is good got 175 psi on all cylinder. Car only has 160,xxx kms. Tune up is done I guess next would be to check the O2 sensor. Any idea about the ecu question I had earlier?

[Atill93]

check your injectors and maf, that's where I would start
and a full tune up is a good idea

[WidebodyS14]

Hey guys, finally got a chance to work on the car. Took the fuel rail off and turned on the igniton. 3 out of the 4 injectors were leaking. When I did injectors on my SR it had black spacers between the rail and manifold. The KA doesnt have these but I have some extras. Should I install them?

[that1guywithans13]

The ka should have them. Your talking about the rubber o rings the size a bit bigger than a quarter and like 1/4 of an inch thick right? And yeah 3 leaking injectors is your problem. Check your oil too. That much gas leak could have ended in your oil pan. Smell your oil for gas. I would change it out change out those injectors and you should be good to go.

[WidebodyS14]

Update problem is solved. Changed out the injectors o rings car runs like new. While doing my injectors I found some injectors had two o rings stacked up on each other. Also the spacer that wasnt there found that in the intake manifold too. Car had clearly been messed with but oh well. I will also check my oil thanks for that. Thanks for the help guys much appreciated.

[SidewaysS13ka]

My n/a dual cam backfired and shot fireballs Lol. I had no emissions what so ever and pulled more timing out of it on the safe end.

[that1guywithans13]

Glad to hear! Had the same issue before on my dual cam.

[beems240sx]

Literally just had the same issue with mine, just less severe. Was all excited to tell you how to fix it... Glad you got it all figured out

[Drft801]

Let me know if there is a better place to post this. New-ish to posting on forums.

I have a similar issue with my ka dual cam. I bought the car about 2 months ago, no major issues besides idle drops down to ~400 when clutch pressed and coming to a stop, idle picks back up after completing stopping for 5-8 sec. It use to stall when coming to a stop but hasn't after I cleaned the iacv. Engine was supposedly rebuilt from previous owner. Compression tested and 160 on all cylinders dry, 170 on all cylinders wet. I changed plugs and filters when I bought it, also went through and replaced all vacuum lines. Does have the egr but it seems to be working, have thought about removing it all together.

No idle issue on cold start, only happens when I'm coming to a stop. I still need to check the throttle body but I'm just wondering if guys had any ideas/suggestions.