Trying to fabricate the most complicated pop up lights ever, help me!

[1320VR4]

Okay so I'm here to try to do something way to complex for my own good on my S13 pop up lights.

After seeing a few people at the track / drifting with slim LED headlights I decided they were badass and I wanted them. I retrofitted them into my stock pop up housings and wired them up. They work fantastic, so much so every single person I ever pass on the road will want to immediately murder me, lol.

So Here's what I plan to do. The "wheel" or arm that spins around via the motor is set stock so that the wheel spins 180 degrees for the lights to go up and down and in turn the headlights go up and down. The center of the arm to the ball stud is 45mm. Which means the overall travel is 90mm. I want the headlights to mechanically max out at 2/3 their current height therefore I need 2/3 the travel. So if I shorten the pivot arm to 30mm (cut and weld) and shorten the headlight turnbuckle a bit to reflect that the pivot arm will bottom out 15mm higher than it did before. The end result should work out so the headlight maxes out at 2/3 height.

Reason for that is so that the headlight maxes out so that just my new slim light will raise just high enough to clear the bumper

Part 2.

I only have one strength beam, which is pretty much like high beam plus. So what I would like to do is figure out a way to reliably electronically set my headlights up so that low beam the headlights point lower than high beam. How can I wire up a pop up light controller so that I can run my high beam wire to trip the motor to step up a little bit higher and raise the lights so I can see farther away. I bet I can figure something out if I sleep on it a few days but some help would be appreciated.

Matt

[silviaks2nr]

Okay so I'm here to try to do something way to complex for my own good on my S13 pop up lights.

After seeing a few people at the track / drifting with slim LED headlights I decided they were badass and I wanted them. I retrofitted them into my stock pop up housings and wired them up. They work fantastic, so much so every single person I ever pass on the road will want to immediately murder me, lol.

So Here's what I plan to do. The "wheel" or arm that spins around via the motor is set stock so that the wheel spins 180 degrees for the lights to go up and down and in turn the headlights go up and down. The center of the arm to the ball stud is 45mm. Which means the overall travel is 90mm. I want the headlights to mechanically max out at 2/3 their current height therefore I need 2/3 the travel. So if I shorten the pivot arm to 30mm (cut and weld) and shorten the headlight turnbuckle a bit to reflect that the pivot arm will bottom out 15mm higher than it did before. The end result should work out so the headlight maxes out at 2/3 height.

Reason for that is so that the headlight maxes out so that just my new slim light will raise just high enough to clear the bumper

Part 2.

I only have one strength beam, which is pretty much like high beam plus. So what I would like to do is figure out a way to reliably electronically set my headlights up so that low beam the headlights point lower than high beam. How can I wire up a pop up light controller so that I can run my high beam wire to trip the motor to step up a little bit higher and raise the lights so I can see farther away. I bet I can figure something out if I sleep on it a few days but some help would be appreciated.

Matt



There's so much wrong here I don't even know where to begin.

First off, if you want headlights to have adjustable height you can modify the factory wiring or install an aftermarket controller.

Now the main issue. You are using LED light bars? as your primary forward lighting source. This is horrible for a number of reasons. First of all, the obvious problem is that these are off road lights and have no regulated beam pattern or dual function for low or high beam use on public roads. You can not simply aim them lower or higher to compensate for the lack of producing two distinct functions.

Low beam pattern requires a wide beam that can illuminate the sides of the road as well as project down the road in front of you with a specific beam pattern that will not produce glare or shine in the faces of oncoming drivers. If you were to lower the beam of your ghetto rigged lights so as to not cause a safety hazard for other drivers you would only be able to see in front of your vehicle about 20 feet.

Are they suitable for a high beam? No, probably not. They are most likely meant as auxillary lights for driving on trails etc. with either a spot of flood pattern.

Do yourself a favor and get some high quality OEM or sae/dot approved aftermarket low and high beam light sources to use as your lights. Whether you do a bixenon projector retrofit, halogen dual 90mm projector/high beam combo, or aftermarket LED sealed beam modules it will be a huge upgrade from what you have now.

Visit the definitive lighting thread for some ideas.

[zombiewolf513]

Get the new GE LEDs that fit like stock, badass

[ixfxi]

There's so much wrong here I don't even know where to begin.

It would be advised that he first learn the difference of an auxiliary light (light bar) vs a proper low beam and a proper high beam.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlamp

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[tauntdevil]

For what you want, there wont be a low beam or high beam. Would just be one light setup in which you would have to hard mount the led bar to point where you want it or have a controller control your ghetto rigged headlights to lift up only to a certain point and at the point, have the leds adjusted to what works for you and other drivers where you are not blinding them... much. Then at the track, when the lights are fully up, make sure that adjustment doesnt change.

[KiLLeR2001]

A good majority of people in this world shouldn't be allowed to modify cars.