Log in

View Full Version : [SR20DET] Won't start, running out of ideas. Help?!


TurboTiger
09-16-2015, 09:23 PM
I've been a member for over a year and I've completed my SR20 swap by using this forum as a resource. It's been a long journey and I'm now to the point where I'm running out of ideas on how to get it started. Here is some background information and a few answers to some of the more common questions I see repeatedly asked in threads like this.

The car is a 90 S13 (5 spd) and I'm swapping in a redtop. The car was running and driving when it was parked it 3+ years ago when the KA was pulled. Stock turbo, aftermarket manifold, FMIC and an HKS BOV.

Wiring:

- New OEM harness (I did the wiring myself. No connectors, only soldering was used)


Fuel:

- Injectors were sent out to be cleaned, and tested. I've also installed new o-rings.
- New OEM fuel rail was installed due to a slight bend in the original
- Fuel is now 4-5+ months old. I've added a few gallons about a month ago.
- Half a bottle of seafoam was recently added to stabilize the fuel. A suggestion someone gave me.
- Stock fuel pump. I do have walbro on it's way but I'm under the impression it "should" start with the stock pump.
- I've pulled the fuel rail off with the injectors installed. Turned over the key to pressurize the fuel rail (numerous times) and checked for any leaks. I also used a spare CAS and turned it slowly until the injectors fired. I did notice ALL four fire at once but I've read this is normal during startup.
- New fuel filter (just changed it again 4-5 months ago)
- Swapped out the fuel pressure regulator for another used one. No difference was noticed.


Ignition:

- Q45 ignitor chip (tried to save a few bucks, wondering if I should source an SR20 chip)
- New plugs (multiple times)
- SOHC MAF
- Stock ECU (I do have a spare that I've used)
- No ECU codes. ECU reads 55
- All grounds were sanded and cleaned
- Spark on all plugs. Not sure how "strong" it is as I have nothing to compare it with.
- Timing http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=612442
- Battery. Old one has finally crapped out. I'm currently testing it with a battery (850 CCA) out of my Tacoma.
- Plugs gapped to .30 (I've swapped out at least 4 sets after months of troubleshooting)


Compression numbers were good when compared to everything I was reading at the time. I have compression, fuel, and spark. Timing appears to be correct (please verify linked thread).

So I'm stumped and I hope it's something simple I've overlooked. The engine will turn over and will sputter once and a while. If I pull the fuel pump fuse and let it turn over for a bit it will eventually start to pop, bang and I'll see smoke from the burnt fuel. Put the fuse back in and in the beginning it will sometimes sound as if it's about to start, but doesn't.

When I do have an extra pair of hands (very rare), I've had someone turn the car over while I slowly turn the CAS. I get the best results when left in the "stock" position or slightly turned clockwise (when facing the CAS)

This is my first swap but I'm comfortable around cars and have done most of my own mods/maintenance in the past but I'm nowhere near as knowledgeable any many of you on zilvia. Troubleshooting electrical things is definitely my weak point.

At this point I feel as if EVERYTHING is suspect so if you think I should verify something basic I have no problem doing so. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can offer! :coolugh:

R3cK
09-17-2015, 05:13 AM
get a sr20det ignitor chip... 20bucks....not even worth thinking about saving that money. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-240SX-SILVIA-180SX-22020-SR20DET-IGNITER-Chip-S13-S14-SR20-22020-50f01-/271981481542?hash=item3f535c0e46&vxp=mtr

also the maf could cause problems, you have to get nistune an edit the map for another MAF i guess
CAS needs to work proper, too.
then it should work

slow40sx
09-17-2015, 08:57 AM
All the timing marks are lined up correctly, a Q45 ignitor should work just fine unless the ignitor is bad, i have to ask though are you sure the fuel lines are not backwards? that is a common thing to mix up on a first time swap, i did it the first time lol

TurboTiger
09-17-2015, 09:18 AM
get a sr20det ignitor chip... 20bucks....not even worth thinking about saving that money. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-240SX-SILVIA-180SX-22020-SR20DET-IGNITER-Chip-S13-S14-SR20-22020-50f01-/271981481542?hash=item3f535c0e46&vxp=mtr

also the maf could cause problems, you have to get nistune an edit the map for another MAF i guess
CAS needs to work proper, too.
then it should work

I'm probably going to just buy an genuine SR20 ignitor chip just to rule this out. I've contacted a seller here on zilvia already but I haven't heard back. Thanks for the link!

As for the MAF the SOHC will work in place of an SR20 MAF (Which I now have, but will need to rewire the harness for it). I've also tried starting the car without the MAF plugged in but there was no difference.

TurboTiger
09-17-2015, 09:23 AM
All the timing marks are lined up correctly, a Q45 ignitor should work just fine unless the ignitor is bad, i have to ask though are you sure the fuel lines are not backwards? that is a common thing to mix up on a first time swap, i did it the first time lol

I've done a few tests on the ignitor and everything appears to be ok. I'm assuming the ignitor could still be bad even though I'm getting spark on all four? This will be swapped out soon with a working SR20 ignitor.

As for the fuel I'm positive I have it setup correctly. IIRC the line from the filter goes up towards the fuel rail, and the line from the regulator heads back towards the rear of the car. I can double check when I'm home.

I've also swapped out the fuel regulator with another used one that I have on a spare fuel rail.

OnTheChip
09-17-2015, 09:29 AM
Did you use shielded wiring for the MAF, CAS, TPS, O2, and knock sensor signal wires?

TurboTiger
09-17-2015, 09:44 AM
Did you use shielded wiring for the MAF, CAS, TPS, O2, and knock sensor signal wires?

I know for sure I used shielded wiring for the MAF ( as per the wiring instructions I found online. ) I used some of the MAF wiring from the old SOHC harness. As for the CAS, TPS, O2 and Knock sensor I'm not 100% sure. If they didn't mention the need to in the directions I probably didn't. IIRC it only stated the MAF needed shielded wiring. I'll rewire this if necessary.

OnTheChip
09-17-2015, 09:49 AM
All of the diagrams I have show shielded wire on all input sensor signal wires, with the shield grounded at the ECU end only.

TurboTiger
09-17-2015, 10:43 AM
All of the diagrams I have show shielded wire on all input sensor signal wires, with the shield grounded at the ECU end only.

MAF, CAS, Knock, O2, TPS. Any others you can think of? I'll go through these this week and double check everything was done with shielded wire, and replace anything that wasn't. Thanks for the heads up on this!

carhelpout
09-17-2015, 11:15 AM
Call a mobile mechanic that will come to you and help you

burnsauto
09-18-2015, 07:39 AM
just a stupid question...but you did make sure you're on the right stroke of the engine? You may have the CAS marked up correctly, but the stroke could be backwards. I've done that in the past and laughed at my mistake. When you think you're at TDC, put a long extension in the spark plug hole and set it on top of the piston, rotate the engine and make sure the extension starts to move downward and not up.

TurboTiger
10-29-2015, 09:14 PM
get a sr20det ignitor chip...

Bingo

Everything checked out with the Q45 but I went ahead and picked up an SR20 ignitor and she fired right up. No clue what the issue was with the Q45 but that was the culprit.

Thanks for everyone that helped out, and the ones that PM'd me with great information. Glad to see the community is still here.