Car is running a little rich and my IDLE is weird

[regnaleb]

Hey guys, ive checked all over the internet but i need a straight answer to my specific problem, hope you all can help me:) Im relatively new as this is my first sr20 ever owned..

So ill start with my setup, its a s13 sr20det with a front mount, a walbro fuel pump and a stock ka24e maf. The problem which i think lies in the new BOV i bought recently. Its a Tial 50mm "Q" edition. Its a non-recirculating BOV i believe and it has a 11psi spring. Here is a link to the specs http://www.tialsport.com/index.php/tial-products/bovs/46-tialbvq

Now, ive heard that people with sr's usually run non-recirculating BOV's to get the pfffshh sound and such. But because of that, my engines getting more fuel than the air that is lost through the BOV opening. So what gives, how do i fix this?

The idle problem i have is this.. It idles fine to begin with, nice and steady but the problem comes when i play with the throttle. The needle will rise accordingly to the peddle but when i release it there is a brief delay before the needle drops. Its not very responsive. And after that, with my foot off the throttle, the needle sometimes doesnt go back to normal idle (1000 or so rpm) it will hang at say 1500 for a couple seconds and then suddenly drop back to 1000. Im not too sure if both problems lie in the bov...

So yeah... please help lol Thank you

[natas240]

Check the IAC valve, it might be out of spec. or your fuel injectors might have a leak, check your cylinders for misfire. Is your check engine light on? could be CTS also!



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[Kingtal0n]

Learn to do a boost leak test regularly, by using an air compressor to fill the plumbing with 15~ psi to find leaks. That is perhaps the central dogma of maf cars in general.

From there, do a basic tune up, clean everything you can reach. Yeah take off the IACV and clean it up with brake cleaner. I also take off all the plumbing, pre and post turbo, and degrease it, look for any signs of oil in the pipes. A basic tune up includes the pcv valve, plugs, coilpack inspection (get a spare coilpack or two), oil change (what does the oil look and smell like?), air filter (Do not use HKS mushroom style filters. Use a proper filter like Apex or K&N (I prefer non-oil soaked filters like the K&N but it works in a pinch, and filters better than those foam based filters). Do not gap down the plugs if you are on the stock turbocharger. Keep boost low until you learn more about the engine. BKR7ES is the stock plug one step colder we all tend to use for 10-15k miles they are very cheap.

So the blow-off valve has to go. Get yourself a real Push-type bypass (like an authentic greddy type-S or HKS race), and install it on the hot-side as close to the compressor as possible. Recirculate it back to the pre-turbo intake. Make sure it holds open at idle to allow the compressor to spin freely. If the bypass does not hold open at idle, then the air will flow backwards through the turbo at idle speeds, especially after driving the car around and lifting from the gas pedal... and the maf sensor will "see" this and add fuel, and there is your rich condition and loss of economy and fouled plugs to come.

I got plenty more to say but this already feels like its too long so... ask any questions you have, I have pics to show you some ways to clean up the plumbing if you need help with it, and pics of the boost leak tester you can build for <$10 using home depot parts, stuff like that. You can adjust the IACV with a screwdriver, just be careful because most IACV have a little plastic screw and everybody strips it out. The proper way to adjust the idle is generally... after you check your timing, (if you need help doing that ask I got pics for days), once the car is HOT and the oil is HOT (200*F~) you let the car sit and idle... and adjust the IACV down until the idle is around 850rpm or so. No need to do any of that weird stuff with the tps. In fact do not even touch the tps at all, no matter what anybody says. Get me some pics of your engine's throttle body and turbo side and pcv route and I will inspect it also. You want to make sure the throttle body is not contributing to the idle speed also, it should literally hold water it should be that tightly shut. If you clamp the IACV hose the engine should stall. Sometimes people fool with the throttle body setting so thats why I am mentioning it.