Jesus F***ing Christ this is ridiculous...

[S13.5F]

Ok. First, you guys should know, I don't post. I don't ask dumb questions and 99.9999999% I find the answer to my problem buy Google searching the shit out of it. Mainly because I don't have the patience to wait days for a descent response. I need an answer NOW, lol.

Anyways, I've tried everything, searched everything, replaced everything, still having the same problem all be it better than it was.

My KA24DE is running rich. fouling plugs, rpms drop to about 500 when I let off the throttle then jumps up and down up and down until it finally levels out. Sometimes it stalls out. and there's a slight hesitation when accelerating.

COMPLETE emissions delete
new TPS dialed in w voltmeter to spec
new o2
new plus and wires
MAF passed inspection
car and engine grounded like a Mofo
Alternator passed inspection
New Battery
Timing is spot on

Engine is brand new just under 500 miles and it doesn't leak shit, doesn't overheat, doesn't smoke (maybe barely. it has too if its running rich. black soot on bumper but the smoke isn't visible from the car), compression is immaculate.

The car and engine runs great minus the mild richness. Any ideas???

[kruked]

Are you N/A?

The surging, dumb question but have you checked the IACV? Plugged in/unplugged/deleted? Check the circuitry?
Any codes on the ecu?
Knock sensor plugged in?
Intake manifold gasket leak?

[FaLKoN240]

Have you looked at your injectors to check out the o ring seals?

[jr_ss]

How about the CTS for the ECU?

[S13.5F]

Kruked - yes its NA. And I posted up top "COMPLETE emissions delete" I only have two vacuum lines FPR and brake booster. ZERO ZERO ZERO emissions.

Falcon240 - yes Ive checked all the injectors even pulled the rail off and literally watched the injectors fire into the air. I was checking for leaks and found none. All the injectors fired great. no leaks no broken seals or rings.

jr ss - I checked the ecu got code 55 which means the computer isn't reading any bad signals which was weird because I knew for a fact the o2 sensor wasn't working correctly at the time. sending no signal to the ecu. But the ecu didn't see that, - weird.

[S13.5F]

the rpms jump up and down slightly. which to me is a dead give away for a bad TPS. Hooked up the voltmeter and at closed throttle its putting out 2.7 ohms and wide open between 12 and 13 ohms.

the other thing thats got me stumped is o2 sensor. when I do a bench test on the old one it worked jumping between 0 and 1 volts back and forth. but when I put it on the car and checked it. it read a constant 0.04 volts without change. I replaced it and the new one is giving me the same 0.04 volts. Am I testing it wrong???

I'm using a voltmeter. I hook the positive lead to the o2 wire then I ground off the black lead just like when I bench test. I should be getting the 0 to 1v back and forth shouldn't I?? I let the car warm up. I even hold the throttle to 2000 rpms for 2 minutes but the o2 still stays at a constant 0.04 volts.

[RalliartRsX]

The IACV has nothing to do with emissions and everything to do with Idle Control (hence it's name: Idle Air Control Valve). If you deleted that as well, you need to compensate for the lost air at some point when the throttle is closed.

[S13.5F]

As far as the o2 sensor goes I just don't think its getting hot enough for some reason. Which has got me thinking if I could somehow wire up a heated o2 sensor to work. I would just need to know where to wire up the two wires for the heat circuit.

[RalliartRsX]

Do you have a IACV??

[S13.5F]

RalliartRsX - THANK YOU. I will check this out. when I deleted everything I may have been led wrong. I was told to remove the IACV also and didn't question it. once I saw your post i looked it up and in theory it should fix my issues. I still have it. Ill put it back and see if it fixes me problem.

[kruked]

Hold on, hold on, wait a minute god dammit!

RalliartRsX - THANK YOU. I will check this out. when I deleted everything I may have been led wrong. I was told to remove the IACV also and didn't question it.
I clearly asked you if it was plugged in/unplugged/deleted.

once I saw your post i looked it up and in theory it should fix my issues. I still have it. Ill put it back and see if it fixes me problem.
I'n theory, you should be thanking me.

[Michael E]

100% symptoms of a vacuum leak. Check for vacuum leaks then check again, under the intake manifold near the fuel filter as well. You will know when you find it if you put your finger near it and it starts to hiss. Good luck!

[RalliartRsX]

Hold on, hold on, wait a minute god dammit!


I clearly asked you if it was plugged in/unplugged/deleted.


I'n theory, you should be thanking me.



The butt hurt is real in this thread...........:keke:

[kruked]

100% symptoms of a vacuum leak. Check for vacuum leaks then check again, under the intake manifold near the fuel filter as well. You will know when you find it if you put your finger near it and it starts to hiss. Good luck!

Have you not read any of the replies?

And not every vacuum leak is going to hiss IF you can get you finger near it.

The butt hurt is real in this thread...........:keke:

Lol.

Can't believe that he thought that an IACV was part of emmissions. Makes me wonder if he even knew what the abbreviations were before you spelled it out for him.

[S13.5F]

Hey Kruked you ok?? yeah you mentioned the IACV Valve and yes I was LEAD TO BELIEVE it was part of the emissions. I didn't "google" all the abbreviations when I started this project. Its my first 240 and I don't know all the specifics yet.

But I know cars and engines. I rebuilt the engine balanced and blue printed. I installed the s15 front end PERFECT I MIGHT ADD. with no problems. electrical, interior, damn near everything. can you do that?

Why do you have to be an asshole?? do you need to get laid or something?? did your boyfriend leave you?? Do you need a dick your mouth?? f***king relax. we weren't all born with the 240/s13 encyclopedia automatically downloaded into our brains.

The reason why I gave RalliartRsx props was that he didn't ASSUME I knew what the IACV was and took 2 secs to give a brief description. But thank you to for initially bringing it up. I appreciate you looking out. If I knew it was idle control I probably wouldnt have removed it in the first place.

[S13.5F]

I don't mean to be an asshole too, but your attitude started it. Next time try not to be so quick to wanna throw down.

[S13.5F]

in the end its not solving the problem. Im going to do a vacuum leak test make sure that's tip top next. I'll let you know if that was it.

[jr_ss]

Easy there killer. He was obviously correct in his assumption, no reason to take it to heart. He gave you a suggestion and tried to HELP you. RELAX man

Geez the BUTT HURT runs deep in this thread.

[cotbu]

Geez the BUTT HURT runs deep in this thread.
It's because there's no lube and condom popup, when they make a post. Just imagine!


Sent from a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

[kruked]

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k512/getkruked/URLs/4e6ee9b2f1b97fd656b92769f981d8762040491e950c125f51 25269c86807907_zpsbkiklgwt.jpg

[Michael E]

Have you not read any of the replies?

And not every vacuum leak is going to hiss IF you can get you finger near it.



.

Yes, the engine still creates vacuum even if he deleted stuff. :picardfp:

[kruked]

Hey Kruked you ok?? yeah you mentioned the IACV Valve and yes I was LEAD TO BELIEVE it was part of the emissions. I didn't "google" all the abbreviations when I started this project. Its my first 240 and I don't know all the specifics yet.

But I know cars and engines. I rebuilt the engine balanced and blue printed. I installed the s15 front end PERFECT I MIGHT ADD. with no problems. electrical, interior, damn near everything. can you do that?

Why do you have to be an asshole?? do you need to get laid or something?? did your boyfriend leave you?? Do you need a dick your mouth?? f***king relax. we weren't all born with the 240/s13 encyclopedia automatically downloaded into our brains.

The reason why I gave RalliartRsx props was that he didn't ASSUME I knew what the IACV was and took 2 secs to give a brief description. But thank you to for initially bringing it up. I appreciate you looking out. If I knew it was idle control I probably wouldnt have removed it in the first place.


Take it easy brother, no need to get your panties in a wad. I like to pick on people from time to time. It makes shit interesting.

Everyone is an asshole in hiding. It takes certain things to bring the asshole out.
Electrical, interior, damn near everything, yep, I can do that. I once had a build thread on a local forum here in the Bay area, (yes, I'm from the Bay area. Clearwater to be exact) but it got deleted when I got banned for something that was really stupid. If the thread was still around, I would point you to it, but...
I've been laid once in the past 2 months, so yes, I need to get laid more often.
My boyfriend left me a long time ago.
I like penis in my hand, not my mouth.
I wasn't born w/ a 240 encyclopedia either. Although it would've been nice.
I wasn't exactly being serious when I said that I should've been thanked first, I was just poking.

Now, on a serious note:
when I initially mentioned "IACV" you should've asked, (or googled) what it was before assuming that it was part of the emmissions. No harm, no foul though. You now know what it is and whatnot.

[kruked]

the engine still creates vacuum even if he deleted stuff. :picardfp:

Oh kay...?

I don't recall ever saying that it didnt. Is there more that you want to add?

[S13.5F]

OK. Here's the update.

I replaced coil pack
coolant temp sensor
TPS sensor
new distributor
new wires
new o2 sensor
I tested the vacuum which is at -52 (insane vacuum, lol) def no leaks there
replaced plugs AGAIN. fouled the other ones.
MAF is sending correct 1v to the ecu (checked at ecu)
ecu giving code 55 (no problems)
fuel pressure is at 34psi idle / rises when throttle given
all injectors are firing (seen it with me own eyes)

engine idles relatively smooth minus the up and down like the tps is bad. what i mean is that its not miss-firing or rough

STILL running rich and it seems to be getting worse for some reason. It bogs on accelleration. I have to sloooowwwwlly give it throttle.

oh yeah, I unplugged the knock sensor. its cracked so no good. no engine knock but i dont wanna send the ecu a bad signal.

[RalliartRsX]

............So all that and you still haven't checked out the IACV situation??

[S13.5F]

sorry, yes. haha I forgot to add that. yes IACV has been cleaned and replaced. Even though. isnt that and idle piece? that shouldn't effect the drive-ability would it?

[OnTheChip]

Knock sensor bad or disconnected will cause the ECU to retard the timing enough to make the engine run sluggishly and rich.

[RalliartRsX]

^^ This!

And yes, the IACV will affect drivability when coming to a stop.

[S13.5F]

ok so I adjusted the dizzy then adjusted the idle screw to bring the idle back down. still idling around 1000-1100 but DAMN the car runs the best it ever has. pulls crazy in the mid range.

[S13.5F]

we'll see how long this lasts. idk maybe something else will go out bringing the suck back. who knows, lol

[TheRealSy90]

The timing should never be changed in an effort to correct the engines idle speed.


Were the butterflies in the intake manifold deleted when you removed all the emissions stuff? Could have something to do with it.

[S13.5F]

Lol I'm talking about the mild dizzy adjustments from the outside. I didn't remove it and move it tooth or anything. For all I know it was off to begin with and now it's right. The reason I had to readjust the throttle is because I've had to make adjustments to compensate for rough low idle.

[S13.5F]

Car runs insane good now. Pulls like a champ. Smooth and hard. I can now experience the power gains from the cam swap, s14 upper plenum, and race balanced bottom end. It also has a lightened flywheel, racing clutch, and full exhaust headers and all. Oh yeah and a welded diff, lol. This thing hooks and moves now. Love it!!!

[TheRealSy90]

Lol I'm talking about the mild dizzy adjustments from the outside. I didn't remove it and move it tooth or anything. For all I know it was off to begin with and now it's right. The reason I had to readjust the throttle is because I've had to make adjustments to compensate for rough low idle.

Even adjusting idle by rotating the dizzy is wrong. The idle should be solely adjusted with the iacv. Timing should be set mechanically and electronically and then not touched.


Now that you have the iacv again, the throttle plate is supposed to be FULLY closed at idle, and air should only be getting into the manifold via the iacv.

[S13.5F]

Thank you for clarifying what I did!

[kruked]

If you are adjusting the throttle by means of the jam nut at the throttle WHEEL/BUTTERFLY, you are also throwing off the TPS.

[TheRealSy90]

Yep, so you'd have to adjust the TPS sensor every single time. Another reason for it to remain fully closed at idle.

[kruked]

Yep, so you'd have to adjust the TPS sensor every single time. Another reason for it to remain fully closed at idle.

Some years back, I wasn't aware of that off rip and I kept chasing my tail. It took me about an hour to realize that I wasn't getting anywhere.

[S13.5F]

Exactly. I've had the volt meter glued to my hip this whole time. Constantly testing everything. Including tps. Ive kept a little box in the car Since I've been in bug fix mode. 10Mil, 14Mil, 19Mil, 22Mil, 5/8 plug sockets and wrenches. Phillips, flathead, needle nose pliers, Allen wrenches, a few extensions, vacuum tester and the volt meter. Everything needed to loosen/ tighten/ test everything pertaining to air/fuel/spark. It was a battle to work all the bugs but it was worth it.

[kruked]

Exactly. I've had the volt meter glued to my hip this whole time. Constantly testing everything. Including tps. Ive kept a little box in the car Since I've been in bug fix mode. 10Mil, 14Mil, 19Mil, 22Mil, 5/8 plug sockets and wrenches. Phillips, flathead, needle nose pliers, Allen wrenches, a few extensions, vacuum tester and the volt meter. Everything needed to loosen/ tighten/ test everything pertaining to air/fuel/spark. It was a battle to work all the bugs but it was worth it.

Are you not comprehending anything that most of us are saying?

[S13.5F]

Sounds like I lot of male testosterone egos trying to be "right".

A little "I know more than you's" and some "you obviously don't know what your doing's".

Listen, I've worked my ass off rebuilding this car without previously knowing ANY 240SX specific knowledge. And I did it all by myself. I needed some help. i.e. some 240sx KA24DE specific things I may have over looked.

The timing is SPOT ON. This car was sitting in a field for two years in pieces with a rod knock. wires everywhere. everything fucked up. I didnt start with this car intact. This was a ground up balanced, blueprinted, every factory spec torque, volt, ohm, levels, and measurements had to be dialed in. EVERYTHING was off. and without the car being factory spec'd out it was a tedious back and fourth effort. Especially since I didn't already know 240 specific things. This has been a MAJOR learning curve. Plus this is now my daily. And I needed it remotely drivable. So until I got it perfect I had to mess with throttle screws, and dizzys just to back and forth to work. Every night I'd come home and cross another thing off the list. Well last night and this morning I got it all fixed and dialed in right. which included setting the dizzy back to where it should be and the throttle adjustment back to where it should be.

Does that explain my end a little clearer??? or do you need more details

[TheRealSy90]

Sounds like you need a standalone EMS for your baller engine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[S13.5F]

lol its far from "baller". it was built well though. rotating assembly balanced to the gram, everything blueprinted. block was fully disassembled and hot tanked. cylinders honed, valves were professionally cleaned and reseated. all new parts seals, bearings, gaskets, oil pump, water pump, timing chain kit. every step of the assembly was torqued to spec. even the 7 in pound bolts on the front cover to the 44lb specs for the brackets. I'll tell you whats scary, cam shaft sprocket bolts 130+ ft lb torque. I swear you'd think it was going to break a cam. scared me every time I did it. (jim wolf adjustable cam sprockets)

The result is an engine with immaculate compression, not a drop leaking anywhere, and now the rich problem is gone it doesn't even remotely smoke. and the engine temp stays a notch below the half way mark. the noisiest part of the engine are the injectors. not even the slightest valve tick. Im proud of it. I took my time and did it right. its got 950 miles on it lol.

Today some dude in a decked out crown vic v8 (ghetto rims, exhaust, paint job god knows what else) felt the need to race me. those are rated around 250hp I'd say he was probably more like 200hp but either way I was walking him. pulling away nice and steady.

I don't have it dyno'd but i built this thing to have around 200hp N/A. Its why I balanced the rotating assembly. to squeeze as much hp out of it as possible. i knew it wouldn't be much but with everything else I did, It could only help. This thing pulls like crazy for an N/A. Id like to put it up against a stock SR20DET to see how it holds up.

I do plan on turbo. I wanna do suspension mods and get some wheels first though.

Once its turbo'd then it'll be baller, lol