KA-T Running Lean Poor Throttle Response Videos

[R3b]

After fixing so many things from the previous owner who was a retard and finally dialing everything down my car ran perfect for about two weeks. I would be cruising and my afr would be around 14.7, everything was good. I would have a lean idle past 18 afr and wouldnt read on my wideband but now two weeks later after not driving it Its running crazy lean and has a worse throttle response. Even when I start it car feels like its going to die but after a second crank it starts really low. Normally on a cold start I would be around 1500 rpms and couple minutes later i would be around 900. Now on a cold start its around 1100 and drops to 700 when warm.

Im thinking its something fuel related, I never liked the fpr I got on the car, some china made shit one. This is what its idling like right now. Sounds so rough and is so sluggish with the worse response imaginable. It doesnt sound like its missing but just not getting any fuel.
https://youtu.be/em7Kf_NZaOs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=em7Kf_NZaOs&feature=youtu.be (video not embedding)

Here is another video 3 weeks ago before I adjusted my tps and iacv to stop my bogging issue I had for awhile. I also had an issue with a blown knock sensor wire from the connector to the ecu, spent a weekend replacing that and my ecu code went away. Also strangely my fuel pressure would randomly spike to 60 psi for no reason... This is for sure a fuel issue before my injector or something with my first injector. I had a leaking o ring about 2 months ago and engine was flooded. Nothing looked damaged but after burning that oil off it rain so much better. Also my injector plugs dont click onto the injectors, there from a wrx and the guy sanded down the clips so they would fit.

https://youtu.be/b8YKJy6W1zU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8YKJy6W1zU

There is no way it could be boost leak related since i have a blow through setup and all the metered air is measured right before the throttle body. So if there air leaking from a boost leak then it wont be as big as of a deal if I had it on my turbo. I could have a vacuum leak but all my egr is deleted and im sure all my lines are gone or covered up. It could be my first injector is finally bad or something else like my fuel pump. Im lost guys. I'll try swap my old spark plugs instead of these e3 spark plugs my dad recommended.

[cotbu]

Pull codes, sounds like timing and tps to me.
It's also funny what the aem gauge thinks of itself, P00?

Sent from a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

[R3b]

Pull codes, sounds like timing and tps to me.
It's also funny what the aem gauge thinks of itself, P00?

Sent from a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

So here is the thing with the timing, the second video I checked my tps and timing in NDS and my tps was way off around .60 volts. I adjusted it to around .45 volts and the idle screw to bring the idle up a bit since the tps is closed more and brought it down.

Now with the timing, in NDS it would show my timing at 16 BTDC and no matter how my dad would move the dizz forward or backwards my timing would not change at all. I just said fuck it, its probably the rom tune and set the timing to 15 with my timing light. Honestly, if we slammed the dizzy forward or backwards my timing would not advance or retard at all inside NDS it would stay on 16...

[cotbu]

If nds says 15,16, 17 or 20 that's what you sync the crank to. What I mean is use a timing light and set the mark on the crank to 16, or whatever the tuner says the timing is.

Nds locks the ecu into timing mode as well did you do that or did you just try to adjust timing? After timing is synced, does it change when you Rev?

That's just weird it won't change, I've only seen that when in the knock map.

What about codes?

Sent from a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

[KAT-PWR]

There is very much a way it could be boost leak/vac leak related. Also having your MAF too close to the TB can cause it to read improperly.
For starters, your MAF itself could be leaking, i've had to epoxy mine twice to have it not leak. Also any leak in the intake manifold is a boost leak when pressure is present and the air escapes prior to entering the combustion chamber.
Fuel rail, EGR (my isis egr leaked, personally i think they're a shit piece), PCV runners and hoses, IACV tube, FPR. There are a TON of places that can leak. When these are sucking in air at idle they lean out the mixture, and when air escapes after being metered it enriches the mixture (boost).
Like stated above codes would be a good start after an actual boost leak test not an "I stood and stared at my motor while running and tightened a few clamps so i know its good" test.
Timing would be a first check as well.

[R3b]

Well I checked about everything I possible could for now, I have no compressor so I cant boost leak test it. Ive sprayed loads of soapy water around it about a week ago and couldnt find shit. I even swapped spark plugs and still nothing.

All it does now it, fires up around 1200 idles and sounds like it should for 5 and my afr hovers around 14-15 then 5 seconds and then drops to 700 rpms and runs extremely lean. Like I said above with timing, no mater how much a change it at the dizzy my timing is set on 16 which im assuming is the rom tune. I left my timing at the crank around 15ish and its still there.

Is it possible this could be fuel related? Not enough fuel combusting for the engine to respond good?

What other ways can I check for boost leaks besides soapy water or use a proper air compressor. I'll ask my uncle at work tomorrow if I can borrow his compressor for a weekend and make my own fitting.

For my maf its a good distance away from the intake. Its below where the battery should be and Its already have epoxy to where the adapter to the coupler piping is stuck. Might be a leak there? I'll check tomorrow in the light to see anything funky. Im not going to start it till I get a compressor. My starter is already kinda going bad and its killing my battery and gas in my tank.

[R3b]

If nds says 15,16, 17 or 20 that's what you sync the crank to. What I mean is use a timing light and set the mark on the crank to 16, or whatever the tuner says the timing is.

Nds locks the ecu into timing mode as well did you do that or did you just try to adjust timing? After timing is synced, does it change when you Rev?

That's just weird it won't change, I've only seen that when in the knock map.

What about codes?

Sent from a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

With timing light and everything done right my timing is at 16 at the crank. I sat in my car with NDS and my dad move the dizzy and he would say did it change and nothing would change in the NDS. I pulled codes off NDS and the ecu just now and im getting 55 so all things are reading fine. Only thing thats werid is my o2 sensor is connected but not getting any readings. Its just at 0 which is has done since I got the car lol for something to change it must be something immediate to happen.

[TurboDaytona]

Your o2 sensor will cause this exact issue. The ECU depends on the o2 sensor more than you think. Go into NDS into active test (F9) and set o2 feedback to 100. Take it for a drive it should solve the problem. You might have to adjust your K-value for the corrected reading. In fact, you should make sure you have the o2 feedback set to 100 while adjusting your K value to get your 14.7 cruise. Get a new o2 sensor, or fix your wiring.

[R3b]

Your o2 sensor will cause this exact issue. The ECU depends on the o2 sensor more than you think. Go into NDS into active test (F9) and set o2 feedback to 100. Take it for a drive it should solve the problem. You might have to adjust your K-value for the corrected reading. In fact, you should make sure you have the o2 feedback set to 100 while adjusting your K value to get your 14.7 cruise. Get a new o2 sensor, or fix your wiring.


Alright I'll try do that today, but what's curious to me is how come the car was drivable? When I either had it connected or disconnected? Like even 2 months ago before I fixed my bogging it was idling fine, my afr was perfect, and the only issue was that it would bog when coming to a stop. That was due to my tps being way off and staying a bit open my idle screw slammed so low. I couldn't adjust my to go past 900. After I adjusted my tps, the car would just die completely when I would start it, after I gave it some gas and let my dad bring up the idle screw it was idling like a dream even without the o2 sensor.

Now two weeks later it's running like completely shit...
I'll check out the thing in NDS, hopefully it's that.