View Full Version : Which bushings?
fastbacchris
08-22-2004, 03:42 AM
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=7-18106G this one?
http://www.pdm-racing.com/specials/specials.html#bushings or this one?
what you guys think?
kandyflip445
08-22-2004, 06:16 AM
Whichever is cheaper/more complete. I would take the more complete one unless you plan on going with ball joints later on then don't waste the money.
MakotoS13
08-22-2004, 08:57 AM
ooooooh, i know this one!
that would be energy suspension. i paid too much for mine (150) and they're still worth it. they'll be hell/expensive to install but totally worth it in the end.
your car will drive like a car... not a boat :)
old_s13
08-22-2004, 12:53 PM
changing bushings takes HELLA time but makes ALL the difference
AceInHole
08-22-2004, 01:07 PM
the ES kit is a lot cheaper, and definitely worth it. Plus you can also order the steering rack bushings at the same time.
Also remember that you'll need $$ for a large clamp and a mapp torch :p
fastbacchris
08-22-2004, 03:38 PM
thanks for the replys. i think ima go with the es but i read alot of things about the lca cracking so ima just buy whiteline t/c bushings.
thx247
08-22-2004, 04:42 PM
Just shave the energy bushings down.
fastbacchris
08-22-2004, 04:58 PM
shave them how?
projectRDM
08-22-2004, 07:15 PM
I just did ES bushings in the rear upright and Aarms. Took 45 minutes. People who say bushings are hard to do must not have the right technique.
Steering rack bushings were a little more involved, passenger side took 10 seconds, driver side took like 30 minutes, 3 cuts, and a nasty bruise.
MakotoS13
08-22-2004, 08:59 PM
i thought the steering rack to be easier than the rear bushings. the right technique consists of a cutting torch and something to press the bushings in with.
i should maybe shave my T/C bushings before my LCA's crack, heh.
sykikchimp
08-22-2004, 09:31 PM
shave them how?
you don't want the bushing to touch the t/c rod bracket. If the bushing is clamped b/w the sides of the bracket, it will fight against the twisting motion that the t/c rods do as the lca moves up and down.
You sort of cut tham so that the metal rod in the middle is the only thing touching the brakcet. and use LOTS of grease on the bushings. Polyurethane isn't plyable like the stock rubber bushings.
thx247
08-22-2004, 11:09 PM
This is the one reason I have not gone poly everywhere, takes alot of maint lubing them all the damn time. I'd rather have play in the bushings than binding.
old_s13
08-23-2004, 12:45 AM
russ, yer full of horse shit you faig... removing the bushing is a bitch.. unless you're a baller and have a press.
me? i used a torche, then i had to slot and chizzle the insert out. then again, i did the ENTIRE suspension.. every bushing on the front and rear of the car.
as for the TC rods, go with whiteline and you wont have any issues.. i didnt atleast.
- mike
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