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View Full Version : progress on acquiring my parts for auto manual swap


Milin
08-13-2004, 10:57 PM
I was actualyl inquiring a little on prices and a little on the actual tech as well.

what i wanted to know is that I now have access to a wrecked 240sx at a junkyard.

I have the transmission with the shifter assy, mast cylinder and the transmission itself and a flywheel

What I am getting hopefully from the parts car is a
clutch pedal
slave cylinder
hardline from master to slave (sounds sooo wrong!)
clutch
manual driveshaft

what are some good prices on these? the line and slave cylinder they wanted 40 for?

also what is the second hard line underneatht he uppermost one? is that neccessary as well?

my main worry is about tapping out the pin. I wonder if anyone has pictures of this procedure as well as what I need to do this and what exactly this pin is and if it comes with the manual trans or will I need to get one as well.

Maeda
08-14-2004, 01:16 AM
Buy a new slave cylinder, and while your down there pick up a stainless clutch line. The hard line can be aquired from most auto parts stores and just bend it yourself with a free to rent line bender from atuozone.

What pin are you talking about?

sciamop
08-14-2004, 09:27 AM
Milin: You'll need the brake pedal too. It's a PITA to find the parts: I tried bidding on ebay and the pedals were going for $70-100. So if they want less than $50, it's a pretty good deal.

Driveshafts are cheap -- one just went for $1, expect $$ for shipping though. So I'd say $50 for the DS (check the carrier bearing before you accept it though).

Since you are going to be doing all this work, you might want to invest in an aluminum driveshaft (and a lightweight flywheel). Reducing the rotating mass on the driveline should really wake up the KA.

Clutch/slave/hardline (as maeda said) should all be purchased new.

Maeda: What are the specs for the line (thread pitch/size etc)?

Todd

Milin
08-14-2004, 09:48 AM
Im planning to just cut the pedal with a die grinder as per drift freq's FAQ.

all the stuff coming off of the parts car looks pretty good.

How hard is removing a driveshaft? theres one at the local salvage yard (s13) and im probably just going to take that one.

same with the crossmember :)

hopefully it all works out.

ill offer them 40 for the driveshaft and see what they do.

AlexAtPerformanceNissan
08-14-2004, 10:23 AM
Buy a new slave and master cylinder, don't forget to buy flywheel bolts for manual tranny, and while you have the tranny not installed yet, drain old gearbox oil and fill it up with some redline MT90 gear oil... smoothens up your shifts greatly.....

-Alex B.

mjjstang
08-14-2004, 02:31 PM
I got a bunch of parts from snail for like 60 bux
then i got driveshaft for like 40 shipped, I think I paid 5 or 10 then shipping
i got tranny for 1800 but they threw in a free redtop engine attached to it.
tranny xmember was like 20
hardline was 22 new from dealer.
I Think the rest of the parts was included in the first line.

driveshaft, there is 4 bolts attaching it to the diff, then 2 bolts attaching it to the frame i think, and thats it iirc,

Milin
08-18-2004, 12:55 AM
anyone got any helpful information on the whole pilot bearing thing? im a little confused as it stands right now. :(

RiftWeaver
08-18-2004, 07:31 AM
Pilot Bearing = This is the bearing that goes into the end of your engines crankshaft. The cut down portion of your transmissions input shaft fits into it. Auto transmissions dont need/use them. You will need to get one and put it into the end of your crankshaft (your crank should be machined for it already) A bearing installer or even a proper size socket will work well for installing it. Another tip is to test fit the bearing onto the end of your trans before you put it into the crankshaft. It should fit somewhat easily. It shouldnt be snug where you need to drive it on, nor should it be real sloppy loose. If it looks good, put it in the crank and you're good to go.